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In the Photos section of this site are pictures of my modifications to the refer.
I split it half and made one side a freezer. It has two cold plates. The refrigerator side uses cold air as a spillover from the freezer.
I put a door in the lower half of the refrigerator to reach the stuff on the bottom.
I use a SeaFrost 12 volt system.
Very efficient.
I spent 3 years in the Caribbean with having ice all the time and plenty of frozen food.
Look for unabated refrigerator mods.1 user thanked author for this post.
When I had the engine out to fix a bent strut, I changed out the old worn damper plate. The springs where sitting in the bottom of the bell housing. I put a new plate in from Westerbeke.
That is when the noise got worse. Another new plate did the same thing. That’s when I talked to the boys at PYI. Smooth as silk now. Immediate difference. Some say a tranny rebuild might help but wouldn’t guarantee it. An expensive venture with no guarantee that it would fix the issues.
The PYI plate did the trick. Easy job to do on your own. If your drive shaft both are not rusted in.
Hope that helps
Alan
UnabatedOn the W58 it’s most likely the damper player. The plate wears, the springs loosen up or fall out.
Easy to change out. But the OEM one is pretty stiff. I used the one from PYI which has pylomer synthetic springs. Very happy with it. Many hours on it now.
Alan
UnabatedThe w58 has or should have a small Petcock at the top end of the heat exchanger. That’s so you can bleed the air bubble out.
Because of the tilt of the engine that’s where the air bubble goes.
First of all you can run a diesel all day at idle and it won’t get up to temperature. It needs to be under load. My school bus is the same way.
That’s why it seems ok until you take the boat away from the dock and it overheats. It has be under load.
To test your repair. Tighten up your dock lines and put it in gear 1500 rpm or better. The temp should stabilize at 180-190.
The exploded parts diagram should show the Petcock. Run the engine and carefully open the petcock up. Some steam should come out. It’s HOT. Keep doing that until just antifreeze comes out. Done.
I learned this hard way.
Alan
Unabated 140For 12 volt system. With 3% loss
And a 100 amp draw over 10 feet
Would require 4/0 cable.A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 250 amps under load (while cranking the engine). The no-load amp draw will vary depending on the type of starter. If the amp draw is too high, the starter needs to be replaced.
Good point on the wire size. The older Pearson’s used welding cable for this stater and battery hookups.
I’ve replaced all of mine with marine rated cable.
If you need to replace cables.
Use genuinedelz.com. They will make custom cables for any size any color. Good quality. Crimping and sleeved. I just ordered a 2/0 6 foot with 3/8 connectors. For 49.00 free shipping no tax. Got it in 4 daysTwo things
One is to check voltage drop at the battery cable connected to the starter. Before and during cranking. Put meter on positive cable (Red lead) at stater and the black lead on ground cable at the engine And/or just the case on the starter.Two: remember that the starter uses the engine block as a ground or return path. The block where the stater Is attached (the bolts) must be clean and free of corrosion.
So make sure your engine ground cable is shiny and bright.Please post results.
Alan
Unabated #140Large nozzles usually mean a high volume pump, large nozzles are used for faster refueling of larger boats. I ran into that in St. Lucia.
Just have refuel slower to allow the air to escape from the our smaller vent.
Unless you have spider nests in your vent which happens also.
AlanAnswer more complex. Would need prop size and pitch. Also wind, wave and current.
I usually cruise at around 2250 mostly for fuel consumption. At that engine rpm I use .75 gallons/hr. On a “calm” day, maybe 6.5 knots. As you increase rpms fuel consumption is exponential. But so is power.
I believe I am still using the 12 inch pitch. The 11 inch didn’t have enough power to get me through the island cuts against the current.
Excessive heat at idle is not good. Under load?I have always tied one end of the reefing line with a bowline around the boom. Using one of those fittings riveted or screwed to the boom as an endpoint for a reef is foolhardy.
I frequently single hand so I reef the main after about 25 Knts just to keep things in control. The boat is allready doing hull speed. So why get beat up for no gain. Unless I need the power for bashing through the waves.
Wouldn’t consider myself a pussy as I’ve single handed most of the ICW, Gulf Stream, Bahamas and eastern Caribbean.
Alan
Unabated1 user thanked author for this post.
Save yourself a whole lot of hassle. Scrap the fuel sender. The senders are pretty much linear and the tanks have an odd shape so it’s never going to be accurate.
Use this no fail method.
Fill the tank. Note engine hours.
Engine uses .75 gallons per hour if you keep it below 2200 rpm. More rpms more fuel. Look up fuel to rpm curve for your engine mine is a w58.
That gives you a 25 percent safety factor. I’ve used this method throughout the Caribbean and Bahamas and works perfectly. Usually right on the money.
Alan
Unabated
