[typhoontye]

I installed the 30 dollar centrifugal pump in series with the hose that exits the thermostat housing. When I run the pump after the engine has warmed to near operating temperature, the engine coolant runs through the hot water tank just fine. I believe that all I really need to do is run this pump for a relatively short period, and the normal pressure/suction from the engines normal coolant flow takes over and circulates the coolant without the aid of the ‘boost’ pump. I’ll experiment more on an upcoming trip. We’ll see if this solution will work for a week of cruising.

Note that the centrifugal pump requires liquid coolant (or whatever) to be present at the pump inlet. It is not self priming. So I mounted it a bit lower than the thermostat housing.

Interestingly, I asked Xylem, parent company to Jabsco, to supply a recommendation for a pump for this purpose. They replied that they don’t have a pump that meets my temperature requirements. Jabsco 50840-0012 specs say that this pump is good for engine coolant to 203 degrees F.

David

[typhoontye]

Thanks Rich. That sounds interesting. I’ll file that away for a possible future mod. I would have to relocate my starting battery (in the aft most compartment under the quarter berth), or the AC unit, which is located just forward of the starting battery compartment.

David

[typhoontye]

Thank you! Good info. That PN appears to be discontinued, but there may be some out there still. Plus, there appears to be some other options that popped up, including Jabsco products (Jabsco 59520-0000B…suitable with antifreeze). All are rather expensive, of course. Just before I saw your post, I ordered a cheapie pump through Amazon. Thirty bucks. Probably worth about that, too. But at least it’ll give me an opportunity to do a proof of concept. And I can purchase a longer lasting pump if this works, and wears out…which I suspect it will. Thank you again!

David

[typhoontye]

Thanks for the replies, guys. On a sidenote, we have a W58, but not the original. Ours differs in several respects, not the least of which the extruded exhaust manifold is mounted backwards (to us). It was originally intended for a conventional install, with the front of the engine pointed forward, toward the bow. It hasn’t been an issue as the exhaust hose makes a sharp turn aft, towards the water lift muffler.

There are two ports on the extruded exhaust manifold which are intended for the heater hookup. One labeled ‘in’, the other ‘out’. Sadly, some person who owned the motor prior to me, welded both of these thoroughly. You might be thinking, why didn’t he just install bolts in these unused holes? I ask the same question, but what is done is done. So, when I installed this engine in Blue Moon, I tapped the thermostat housing for the pressure end of the water heater circuit, and plumbed the return end to just below the extruded exhaust manifold, where the engine plumbing returns to the suction side of the engine coolant pump. Sadly, this doesn’t seem to be providing enough ‘blow and suck’ to move sufficient coolant through the water heater. Hence my question about the in line pump. So, RDugger, I appreciate your input on the pump. I’m debating with myself, which type of pump to install. A centrifugal type pump seems to make sense. But it won’t self prime. Don’t know if that will be an issue. But it can spin ‘dry’ with no ill effect. A self priming pump, like our bilge pump, would probably burn up in time, particularly if it isn’t getting any fluid. Plus, it would be passing very hot water (hopefully) and antifreeze. Don’t know if it would be up to this. So if you happen to come up with any more details on your pump and it’s install, it’d be great to know!
Rich, to answer your question, yes, our overflow reservoir is located high up. At the top, aft end of the port side lazarette. I would certainly be interested in knowing more detail on the location of your water heater in your current set up.

Thanks to all who responded!

David

[typhoontye]

Thanks Rob. We’ve taken to doing the same. Not a bad work around, and am grateful we have it! But often times I also need to replace amp hours in the battery, and the inverter pretty much uses everything the alternator puts out. So I end up using the engine longer than I’d like…

David

[typhoontye]

I used 1/4″ PTFE flax packing. And per my notes, I used packing grease. Again, this was for the prop shaft stuffing box. Don’t know if it’s the same size for the rudder shaft packing.

David

[typhoontye]

I wish I could offer more direct experience, but have never messed with this packing gland, though I’ve worried about the day I once need to. I have, however, worked on the propeller shaft gland. I’ve both tightened it and replaced the packing material (while in the water). I looks the same or similar to the rudder shaft packing gland, so I assume it’s the same.

I think I’d start out trying to tighten the packing gland top nut. That could very well solve the leak. Obviously, this packing gland doesn’t get the same wear as the prop shaft gland. If you have to change the packing, I think that should be possible while the vessel is in the water. I don’t know the size of the packing, but will check my boat records later today to see what size I used for the prop shaft packing gland (if I recorded it). I don’t think you should be getting any leakage from the rudder packing gland however. Should be addressed, in my view.

David
Blue Moon, #189

[typhoontye]

I received the starter from MCR. Turns out is manufactured by J&N, whoever they are. It appears to be identical to the existing Delco Remy, and it is billed as ‘new’ not ‘rebuilt’. The J&N part number is 410-12429. I don’t intend to install it unless I have another intermittent problem with the existing Delco Remy installed. If I do so, I’ll report on how the J&N operates.

David
Blue Moon

[typhoontye]

Yes sir, also had trouble with the neutral safety switch. Replaced it with a new one, and even that wasn’t perfect. So I wired around it some time ago.

On a separate topic, I haven’t used the forum in a while due to being unable to ‘send’ anything. The site wouldn’t do it for some reason. Anyway, that seems resolved. But I noticed that when I respond to an e-mail response to a post that I sent out previously, my response doesn’t get posted to the forum…and may not be getting out at all, except perhaps to the single individual who sent the original e-mail. If this makes any sense… So these last two responses of mine may be duplicates.

I do want to make sure that the part number of the starter I ordered gets out to those interested. It is: Delco Remy 1109377 ID23. That’s the number I pulled off my existing starter. Ordered from MCR, it’s supposedly a new item from Delco. Crosses to the appropriate Westerbeke part number for the W58 starter.

David

[typhoontye]

Thanks for the tips. I had the starter gone through a couple of times….and had a brand new solenoid installed. Can’t hurt to check the tab though. Like you, I’ve thoroughly cleaned all connections. Seems to help for a while, then starts acting up again. Notably, when I parallel the house bank to the start battery circuit, I don’t experience a problem.

In the process of replacing the cables from the start battery to the starter, I realized that the ground cable that attaches to the starter mount bolt…provides the return path for the start battery circuit…is located directly below the end cap for the main heat exchanger. And of course that cap weeps a bit of salt water, that drips right on the swaged connector of the ground wire. It did look a bit gnarly. Might be an issue, or not. Anyway, new cables now, so hopeful that was it!

I’ll try to remember to report on the condition of the new starter when it arrives. I don’t intend to install it unless there’s a problem. But will carry it in the spares bin.

David

[typhoontye]

I haven’t completely solved the problem of standing salt water around the mast base but did come up with a partial solution. I draped a length of lamp wicking material, about 1 or so inches wide, from the area in question into the bilge. Didn’t think it would do much but it did. Water will still accumaulate around the mast base but wicks surprisingly quickly into the bilge. At any given time I check the mast base area for moisture it is generally very dry…

David
Blue Moon

[typhoontye]

I purchased some lamp wick that I drape from the area around the mast base and into the bilge. Didn’t think it would do any good but it did! Of course water still gets around the mast base but at least it wicks out. The mast base area is generally dry.

David
Blue Moon

[typhoontye]

Looking for a starter for a W58!

David
Blue Moon, #189

[typhoontye]

Hello Ben,
Don’t have a spare boarding ladder, but I did a mod that made my existing boarding ladder work a bit better for us. I had new offsets (4 ea) made for the ladder attach points. That is, the brackets that bolt to the transom were made longer than standard so the ladder stands out from the transom a bit further, particularly at the bottom. This reduced the ‘hanging off the back trying to climb an inverse sloping wall’ feeling. My wife likes it a lot better.

Hopefully ya’ll survived the storm ok. When we cruised the East coast a couple of years ago we stayed on a mooring at a place just North of Woods Hole. We were thinking about that mooring field as the storm was approaching your area. Now we’re thinking of the developing action in the Gulf of Mexico…

David
Blue Moon (Ft Walton Be, FL)

[typhoontye]

Let me back up a little and provide some background info on my question: We obtained a new Lewmar 16, self tailing winch for the mainsail halyard. Mast mounted. It was to replace the aged, probably original, Lewmar 16 that is currently in that position. It is a non- self tailer. Basically, we got in a bit of a hurry and overlooked the fact that we were buying a single speed winch to replace a two speed model. I’m reluctant to mount the new single speed to see if it is sufficient because then I can’t in good conscience try to return it if I don’t like it. Sooo, if someone out there is using a single speed and is happy with it’s ability to provide sufficient luff tension on the main without busting a gut, I’d like to know that. Or, if someone is using something else that works well I would like to know that as well. I do plan on sticking with the mast mounted location….not interested in leading the halyard back to the cockpit.
Thanks!

David

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