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That’s a really serious voltage drop. I’d worry about about the potential for fire with that type of voltage drop and amperage.
I would replace the two wires for the starter with new 3 or 4 gauge (or bigger) tinned wires just to be eliminate the possibility that corrosion hasn’t worked it’s way up the copper on the old wires.
Check to see the amperage rating on the combiner. Some of the smaller ones are really light duty. You shouldn’t need your house bank to start the engine unless the start battery is bad. I have an average sized car-type starter battery and it’s worked fantastic for my Yanmar starter (and Westerbeke 60 when I had it).
Trace your grounds to all batteries, engine, and grounding system in the locker carefully. When I was doing my repower, I forgot to reconnect the wire from the main grounding panel to the batteries. I was wondering why I was getting such bad voltage drops on all of my electrical systems. Found out that the current was going through a really small wire in lieu of the one I forgot to reconnect that eventually connected to the battery ground. This wire was really, really hot. Glad I found that one.
I’m surprised that one battery with 1,000 cranking amps isn’t enough to start the engine…
What’s the wire gauge that runs from the battery to the starter?
Just wanted to update on the outcome.
Rigrite and a rigger friend mentioned that the jigs used to initially install the spreaders and tangs were probably not very precise and contributed to some loose tolerances. They both felt that rounding out the holes a little bit to fit wasn’t a big deal.
The new spreaders wall thickness was considerably more than the originals. I went with a different style tip that had a Phillips head screw that secures the wire within the slot. I also used small stainless hose clamps as a secondary way of holding the spreaders up outside of the pressure of the wire tension.
Finally finished all the main standing rigging with the mast up… Not sure I’d want to do that again!
3/8″ for the lowers, backstay (upper wire and lower wires), forestay.
New Schaefer triangle plate for backstay.
10mm compact strand for uppers.Next up is to inspect the forestay chainplate and start building a parts list for the mizzen rigging.
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Well, quick update.
I received two new spreaders from Rigrite and when I went to put them up, the bolt holes didn’t align to the tang! I was able to ream out the starboard side holes about 1/16″ off each using a Dremel and it fit. The port side is taking a lot more work and I’m starting to get a bit uncomfortable about taking more off.
I can’t tell if the pattern Rigrite used is slightly off or if the tolerances on the original spreaders were really strange. Has anyone experienced this before?
Rich,
That’s actually a pretty good idea. I’m a little freaked out how easy the tips broke off and worried the inboard side of the spreader is compromised as well. The spreader tips looked OK visually.
I’m hoping Rigrite’s quote isn’t too wild and that they have a quick turn-around. Otherwise I might be following your suggestion!
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Thank you!
Just gave Rigrite a call and they’re quoting me shortly. I used the SP450 part number but it looks identical to the SP165 measurements.
https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Rig-Rite_Spars/RigRite_Spreaders/SP450-airfoil.phpThanks for the quick response — we’ll see what the cost will be from Rigrite for a new set.
I added one of these panels for my nav lights. It was nice to consolidate everything to one breaker and it makes it easy to tell the crew which setting to put it at.
http://pweb.jps.net/~lschaffer/navltindhome.html
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Would it be possible to have a Pearson 424 Wikipedia and have it organized by content areas Rich suggested? Might be a good way to aggregate write-ups and projects with links back to the forum regarding discussion on the subject.
I can help set it up if you need any technical help.
I would definitely plan on replacing any original aluminum fuel tank even if there are no visible leaks.
I replaced mine during the re-power project as good practice based on what others had posted on this site. I’m glad I did because there was a pinhole sized leak at the bottom of the tank where it rested on a wooden support. The support beam was soaked with diesel and had absorbed a majority of the leak.
The cost wasn’t too high — I believe the tank was about $1,000 with a digital and analog fuel sender + a few additional fuel pickups. The hassle was getting the engine out of the way to replace the tank — it wasn’t as big of a deal as I thought it would be.
I just realized my pictures on the linked post didn’t show the third set of vertical stringers. I was really impressed with how it all turned out and the improvement it made. I wasn’t able to flex the fiberglass like before and estimate there was 1/2 – 3/4″ total fiberglass added. It was easy adding fiberglass to the anchor locker bulkhead and both the bottom and lower sides of of the horizontal shelf. There really isn’t a lot of fiberglass supporting the shelf and I don’t think it could support the weight of a person with the original glasswork.
I don’t think I’d ever want to do the job again and was probably the single most miserable boat project I’ve done — probably due to my limited fiberglass skills. Fiberglass dust was everywhere from grinding. Working with that much epoxy was also a little scary as I was worried I’d get it too hot working with big sections at a time. Epoxy “hair gel” was a new experience for me as well. I would gladly pay $1,800 for someone to do the fiberglass work for me and undertake the battens myself.
Hey David,
Here’s the steps I took to reinforce the bow. Was in some rough weather (10-12ft+, 30+ kt) off of Cape Caution and had no issues with the reinforcement. https://www.pearson424.org/forums/topic/reinforcing-the-v-berth-battens-ceiling-boards/
I would suggest wedging yourself up in the bow and see if you can use your feet to push against the hull. If it flexes when you push hard, I think it would be wise to undertake some reinforcement steps if you plan on sailing in open waters.
Hi David,
How’s the condition of your heat exchanger hooked up to your transmission? Would it be possible that it’s corroded and leaking transmission fluid out through your raw water?
Rob
Hey Rob,
That video is super scary. How high were the waves? Were you headed straight into the waves? Are you seeing any gel coat cracks on the hull?
People have posted about this before — search oil canning. After reading a few stories from others, I decided to do the suggested reinforcements from the boat’s architect. I also added additional tabbing to the forward bulkhead as I noticed there were gaps between bulkhead and hull above the height of the anchor locker door.
Before I reinforced the v-berth, I could flex the hull if I wedged myself on either side and pushed with my feet. I can’t do that anymore and it feels a lot more rigid.
