[rdugger]

I've run mine for two seasons w/o cooling water. It never gets more than a little warm…
I am aware of another 424 owner who has run his V drive w/o water for 4 seasons…

Rick
Eclipse #73

On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 7:53 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I pulled off the top plate on the V-drive and discovered that the center forward bolt hole is rusted to the point that the bolt has nothing to hold onto. I see three possible solutions:

1. Keep the plate off and not run cooling water through the unit.
2. Buy a new V-drive
3. Try to use JB Weld to build up the rusted out section and then drill and tap a new hole.

Opinions, criticisms, alternatives and comments welcomed.

Lee
Morning Glory #43

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[rdugger]

Cada,
I and another Pearson 424 owner would be interested in copies..

Bob,
We'd also be interested in what you've got…

Rick Dugger
Eclipse #73

On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 9:07 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I agree they don't have a lot of use, but I have found them helpful as a reference. I would be interested in a copy of the orginal wiring plan. There are still a few wires I have not identified and labeled…

If only a few are interested I will check to see what it will cost to copy and send to anyone copies at cost.

Cada

Dec 1, 2008 01:29:39 PM, () wrote:

I have the ketch blueprints and even a wiring diagram which I'll tell you now is nearly useless.

Bob

On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 5:59 AM, quent ()> wrote:

Me too.
Quent

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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[rdugger]

I built a false bottom in it that can easily be removed. Anything could be stored below the false bottom.
The false bottom was built at a depth slightly less than the length of the Admiral's arm..
We use it to store towels and washcloths..

Rick
Eclipse #73

On Wed, Nov 12, 2008 at 10:07 PM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I'm curious about the potential use of the storage area under the lift top to the left of the head sink. Was this designed as a laundry hamper? Are others using this space for something besides a catch all? Suggestions?

Thanks

Dan Kalinowski
S/V Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu

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[rdugger]

I believe it must be 1/4″ plywood…. installed just at the bottom… access to the top of the fuel tank from either side is not blocked…
Aft there is also a 1/4″ piece of plywood.

Previous owner(s) must have removed all the pegboard…

Rick
Eclipse #73

On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 4:39 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Rick,
What do you have that keeps stuff in the port and starboard lockers from rolling under the fuel tank. Peg board seems to be the Pearson solution in the early models.

John

On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 4:23 PM, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I also am a little confused.. There is no pegboard on Eclipse…

On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 4:16 PM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I'm following this thread with the hopes of understanding where the pegboard actually is.
I have pegboard covering the buss bars in the nav station hanging locker, thats it.

On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 4:06 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:

John

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

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[rdugger]

I also am a little confused.. There is no pegboard on Eclipse…

On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 4:16 PM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I'm following this thread with the hopes of understanding where the pegboard actually is.
I have pegboard covering the buss bars in the nav station hanging locker, thats it.

On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 4:06 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:

John

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[rdugger]

Brunswick Landing Marina must be some kind of roosting place for 424s… That's where we found Eclipse 2 years ago.
Rick

On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 3:35 PM, howard < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I think so. the boat was a Jekyll harbor when we bought her but had been at brunswick landing. She is Pride and Joy. the name will be changed. i no a renaming ceremony is called for.
Howard

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[rdugger]

When I was looking into feathering props I believe I discovered they don't have a prop for engines with HP > 55…

Rick
Eclipse #73

On Sat, Oct 18, 2008 at 5:04 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

For those interested in feathering prompts, here is a recent discussion on kiwiprops, which look attractive at $1300. However, I am not sure how happy I would be with the drop in motoring performance. I guess it depends on how much sailing you do in light air versus motoring.

http://ssca.org/DiscBoard/viewtopic.php?p=41600#41600

Has anyone tried one of these on a 424.

Paul Lefebvre
Boundless #28

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[rdugger]

Pete,
Honestly… was not trying to be funny… really wasn't 100% certain what you meant..

Very good to hear I have a chance of flying a mizzen staysail with a Wind Gen..

Chuck Ruble (Sea Duty) has offered to let us borrow his mizzen staysail as a pattern…
The Admiral has offered to make one over the winter.. There are several old sails in the garage that could be used for the prototype…

Thanks again everyone..

Rick
Eclipse 424

On Tue, Oct 14, 2008 at 6:11 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Rick, you are a very funny man and I'd love to go on talking with you all night…

To clarify, I have never had trouble with one interfering with the other… but, I do not let the gen run when flying the miz staysail.

Pete

Rick Dugger wrote:

Quote:

Pete,
you mean you never had a problem with your Wind Gen? or never had a problem flying a mizzen staysail with the wind gen?
Rick

On Tue, Oct 14, 2008 at 3:11 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email]) > wrote:

Never had a problem with mine.

John Stevenson wrote:

Rick,
Can your wind generator be relocated to the mizzen mast head?
That's were Jack Tyler has his generator and he flies a
mizzen staysail. Of course then you'll want to put mast steps
on the mizzen so you can service the generator.

John

On Tue, Oct 14, 2008 at 12:25 PM, Rick Dugger
< ([email][/email])

>>

wrote:

Thanks Alan and Thatcher…
I was afraid that was going to be the answer…
Not having flown one before I just wasn't sure.
Rick
Eclipse #73

On Tue, Oct 14, 2008 at 1:11 PM, alan P < ([email][/email])

>> wrote:

Thats why I put my Wind Generator 3 feet above the mizzen.
B____tch for maintenance, but it's out of the way.
alan

— On Tue, 10/14/08, Thatcher Stone
< ([email][/email])

>> wrote:

Quote:

<.. snip>

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[rdugger]

Pete,
you mean you never had a problem with your Wind Gen? or never had a problem flying a mizzen staysail with the wind gen?
Rick

On Tue, Oct 14, 2008 at 3:11 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Never had a problem with mine.

John Stevenson wrote:

Quote:

Rick,
Can your wind generator be relocated to the mizzen mast head? That's were Jack Tyler has his generator and he flies a mizzen staysail. Of course then you'll want to put mast steps on the mizzen so you can service the generator.

John

On Tue, Oct 14, 2008 at 12:25 PM, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email]) > wrote:

Thanks Alan and Thatcher…
I was afraid that was going to be the answer…
Not having flown one before I just wasn't sure.
Rick
Eclipse #73

On Tue, Oct 14, 2008 at 1:11 PM, alan P < ([email][/email]) > wrote:

Thats why I put my Wind Generator 3 feet above the mizzen.
B____tch for maintenance, but it's out of the way.
alan

— On Tue, 10/14/08, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email]) > wrote:

Quote:

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[rdugger]

Thanks Alan and Thatcher…
I was afraid that was going to be the answer…
Not having flown one before I just wasn't sure.
Rick
Eclipse #73

On Tue, Oct 14, 2008 at 1:11 PM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Thats why I put my Wind Generator 3 feet above the mizzen. B____tch for maintenance, but it's out of the way.
alan

— On Tue, 10/14/08, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

<.. snip>

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[rdugger]

Dan,
I still have the manual windlass on Eclipse.
The old handle was in very bad shape.
I made a new one out of steel from Lowes and painted it with rustoleum paint…. It has worked fine. I will need to repaint it every year of two.
If you can't find an original replacement handle, I could measure mine next time I'm on the boat (1-2 weeks).

Rick
Eclipse #73

On Wed, Oct 8, 2008 at 4:47 PM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Does anyone know if this manual windless was original equipment on the 424 ? After going through every cranny in our recently purchased 424 ketch (not a quick task), I could not find a handle. I'm wondering if this, as well as other parts, are still being sold. Any comments?

Thanks,

Dan K
Lady Leanne II
Honolulu

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[rdugger]

Rich,
the original was 20×13 and was too much prop..
Now I have the 18 x 9 feathering… but it needs just a wee bit more pitch…

Leaving in 5 min for a week on the Chesapeake…
wind and weather at this moment are very good…

Rick
Eclipse #73

On Fri, Sep 19, 2008 at 1:22 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Rick
Have you asked your prop shop to cut it down to 18×13? its bad for an engine if you are over propped.

—
Rich Carter

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Original message

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<.. snip>

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[rdugger]

I have a Westerbeke 63C. The fixed prop that was replaced was a 20×13 …. which was too much prop…

Rick
Temerity #73

On 9/19/08, () < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

That should get you to hull speed at about 2600 RPM, assuming that your engine is happy with that speed. I can't remember what the stock prop pitch was, but 18×11 sounds right.

—
Rich Carter

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Original message

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<.. snip>

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[rdugger]

This past winter I replaced my fixed prop with an 18×9 – 3 blade stainless steel Autostream feathering prop.
The pitch can be adjusted underwater without haulout. I plan to make it a 10 pitch this winter during haulout… I'm not quite hitting hull speed at max rpm..
I was unable to find a bad review of this brand or a negative comment from a current owner. In my area of the Chesapeake, there seem to be a lot of boats with MaxProps but I've heard they have a high rate of needing periodic reconditioning.
The Autostream cost less than the other feathering props… I paid right at $2600 which included a boat show discount.
I bought it from Jim Blanchard at H&H Propeller in Salem, Mass (hhprop.com) and the experience was totally positive. I highly recommend this prop shop.
I have increased sail speed by at least 0.75 knot. Just as important… I can actually back the boat up.
I also replaced the shaft and installed a dripless shaft seal.
She runs alot smoother and no saltwater water in the bilge.

Rick
Eclipse #73

On Wed, Sep 17, 2008 at 12:44 PM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I will have to replace the prop on our 424 ketch some time in the near future (I guess the previous owner didn't keep up with the zincs). Does anyone have recommendations on a new prop?

Dan Kalinowski
S/V Lady Leanne II
Honolulu

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[rdugger]

Rich and John
Thanks

I was unable to go to the boat this weekend, so I haven't had a chance to try any of the suggestions that have been made.

My house bank is separate from the start battery.
I think the battery switch panel is a blue sea … it has separate switches for the house and starter batteries and a third switch that combines them, when necessary.

Although I rewired all the batteries and charging and starting systems when I bought the boat in 2006 I will take a very close look at all of the connections.

Occam's Razor has gotten me before, I shouldn't let it get me this time.

Rick
Eclipse #73

On Sat, Aug 9, 2008 at 2:50 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Rick
From your description, I can't tell how you have your batteries connected. I use a separate starter battery that does nothing but start the engine. It doesn't run anything else. This insures that no matter how much I run the house batteries down, I can start the engine. The boat didn't come this way. It came with a pair of 8D deep-cycle batteries in the starboard locker. I found that these batteries weren't very good for starting the engine. They don't have enough cold-cranking capacity and they can get run down. What you really want is a starter battery for starting the engine and deep cycle batteries for house batteries. I use a generic truck starter battery. The largest starting battery that Sams Club sells. Hooking an isolated battery up like this can be expensive or complicated but there is at least one simple way to do this using a solenoid switch.

It sounds as if you have an electrical problem somewhere; perhaps a loose connection somewhere in your starter circuit. Try cleaning the terminals off with sandpaper and tightening them back up. The next time the engine fails to crank, try shorting out the starter solenoid. You may have an issue there.

Regards
Rich – BlackSheep

Quote:

<.. snip>

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