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Thank Rich,
I appreciate the insight. I think what I’ve not asked clearly enough is this: would a smaller Fortress suffice. The 22lb danforth is MUCH smaller than the 15lb fortress. The 10lb Fortress is about the same size as the 22lb danforth. Of course, weight is a good thing for an anchor, but in the case of the fluke style anchors, one might say that the size is more critical.
Best, P
On Thursday, February 27, 2014 6:48 AM, “” wrote:
I have a 22lb danforth for my stern anchor. I’m not sure that the fortress has any advantage over steel here so I didn’t bother with the extra cost. It’s on about 150′ of 5/8 nylon and about 12′ of 3/8 chain. The chain is heavy so saving a couple of pounds on the anchor makes little sense. I rarely use this, no windlass back there. It’s stowed below in one of the three black-hole lazarettes. Since it’s rarely used, it’s on the bottom.
I have an FX55 for my storm anchor (or is it an FX85? I’ll have to look. I think it’s a 55). Here I paid the extra cost of the fortress because it disassembles. Otherwise I’d never get it stowed. It’s on 150′ of 3/4 nylon with 50′ of 1/2″ chain. I’ve used it a few times but so far I’ve always hooked it to the bow chain in place of my regular hook. When set, this can be a monster to retrieve. I have to run over it with serious power to break it out. It usually brings a yard of muck back with it.
The 22lb danforth is more than adequate for most conditions if it sets properly. I won’t get into a religious discussion about anchoring here. Most everyone knows what I mean by setting properly.
Rich
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Thanks Bob. so you have an FX-23; that’s good to know. Do you have it mounted on the stern rail or stowed, when not in use. It’s a nice hook, but HUGE.
Anyone else using Fortress anchor? It’s lighter than the Danforth steel equivalents, so unsure about actual size. I guess, I’m wondering if the FX-16 would suffice (stern only, of course).
On Wednesday, February 26, 2014 6:29 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
The 23 is my stern anchor, and spare bow anchor (after I lose the secondary
CQR).Bob
On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 9:17 PM, pma_foyl wrote:
Hi All,
Of course, I know this is essentially “religion”, but I’d love to get some
thoughts about YOUR stern anchor sizing for the P424.I just got a Fortress FX-23 (large, but only 15lbs). I dig the weight, but
feel like it’s HUGE. Could be too big and cumbersome. Perhaps an FX-16
would have been sufficient. They say the FX-23 is for 39 – 45′ boats, but
I’m sure they are talking about primary/bow anchors. Am I just being
hopeful about using a smaller anchor for my stern? Definitely don’t want to
go too small, but uncertain. The stern hooking I’ll do is mostly in
protected anchorages where the aim is to avoid swinging in tight quarters.
However, there may be times when changing currents or winds put real
pressure on the stern hook.I don’t really want to discuss “what I should ‘really’ do”… I’d like to
know what are you using?Thank you, Paul
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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Thanks guys. I know that many have not found great need of a stern hook. In my neighborhood, I’ll use it every time I drop the hook (Channel Islands have small anchorages; it’s just the way things are done in this locale).
On Thursday, February 27, 2014 3:19 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Ditto what Ken said – a 22-lb Danforth used maybe 3
times. However, if you ever decide to cruise in the
Mediterranean you’ll want something more substantial
for the bow-to docking that is common there.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I’m doing my standing rigging right now. It’s not done, so my final price is up in the air.
I had several earlier quotes from good riggers and some quotes for rigging alone (without labor). I was mostly getting quotes from the 8k to 12K range (on complete work, including labor and some timely upgrades (new wire, LED anchor/steaming lights, etc.)). From these guys, most were quoting the rigging alone (no labor or upgrades) at about $6500 – $7500.
The rigger I currently have working on my boat has quoted me $2000 for rigging and $2000 for labor. A HUGE savings, if it holds true. To be honest, I can’t imagine those being the final numbers, but I’ll keep you posted.
Paul
On Monday, February 17, 2014 2:32 PM, JodyandStephen wrote:
Hi everyone,
Has anyone had a re-rig of their ketch? We are essentially looking for some price indicators.
Thanks in anticipation,
Stephen & Jody
Blue Pelican
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Hi Everyone,
thank you all for your input. I’ve very glad to see some dollar-figures. I’ve been told “oh, $1500 – $2000 at each each end, plus $5000 for trucking” by many sailors who’ve explored trucking, but never actually done it.
Here’s what I’m finding so far:
Trucking – $5600 to $7800 in range (from 4 different trucking outfits)
De-commissioning – $3400 – $4400 (2 different Seattle quotes)
(include hauling, complete teardown, truck prep, labeling of electronics, plus winterizing for mountain passes)
Re-commissioning – $4400 – $4900 (3 different yard quotes in Ventura, CA)
(includes restepping, tuning rig, hooking up electronics, splashing)
So, not including everything that will break and need replacing along the way, it looks like it could be $13,500-ish to $17,800-ish. I could save some down, by reassembling the electronics myself, but it’s just not that much.I’ve considered a delivery captain/crew, but for this trip, it’d be a crew of three for 14 days; that quickly ramps into the realm of the truck delivery PLUS the wear-n-tear, PLUS it’s people I don’t know on my boat. There is also the very real possibility, that something significant breaks underway, which could strand the boat somewhere at massive additional expense and headache.
I’d love to sail it down myself, but this is NOT the time of year you want to be sailing the PacNW coastline if you can avoid it. And it’s mostly academic, because I won’t be able to find two weeks free (or a decent 2 week weather window) anytime soon.
I’ll be figuring out the trucking stuff some more and I’ll provide more info as I go. Also happy to hear about others costs.
Thanks again to all.
Best,P
On Sunday, November 10, 2013 5:09 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Tor,
It’s almost always less expensive to truck than ship when it’s over a few
days trip. A full crew costs about $500 per day plus expenses like
dockage, fuel and food as well as travel. You can find cheaper crew but
would you trust your baby to scallywags?The recommissioning costs sound outrageously expensive. What can you
possibly do for that amount of money? Putting the masts back on and dumping
the boat in the water should be around $1000. I guess San Diego is really
expensive – more than Stamford CT, that’s for sure.Bob
On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 5:40 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Paul, check on the cost of a delivery captain & crew.Tor
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Thank you all for the positive responses. Most helpful!
Best,
PaulOn Wednesday, October 16, 2013 4:44 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Positively 1.5″
I’m not being terse. This is from my cell phone and I detest typing on it.
On Oct 16, 2013 7:34 PM, “pma_foyl” wrote:Hello all,
I’m curious if anyone knows what the prop shaft diameter is? I’ve seen
reports of both 1″ and 1.5″.Anyone POSITIVE they know the answer?
Thank you,
Paul_______________________________________________
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Thank you Tor,
I figured you’d know for sure. I appreciate your help.,
Best,
PPaul Michael Audi
m 213.610.5533On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 4:47 PM, Silverheels wrote:
1.5″
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thank you all for your help. It’s all coming back to me now. I was just surprised.
And thank you also for the details on how best to manage this.
Fair winds,
PPaul Michael Audi
m 213.610.5533________________________________
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thanks Alan,
Are all 424s LH props?
Can you give me your ‘prop specs’ for my records (assuming you have a fixed, as I do)
Best,paul
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Thanks Tor,
Excellent idea. How long was your boat on the hard? I’m really hoping my tank is sludge-free ( like yours).
Best,Paul
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 21, 2013, at 1:23 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:Terrific idea, Tor!Bob
On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 12:28 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Hi Paul,Welcome back to the Romper Room.
My 424 had been sitting on the hard for unknown months when I bought her.
One of the very first things I did, just before (mostly) motoring her 300
miles up the ICW to another boat yard, was to remove and replace that foggy
portlight in the cockpit sole so I could see through it, and pull the
30-year-old fuel sight gauge and replace it with a new one, readily
available from any marine store for $10 or $15. While those things were
out,
I secured a hose to a long stick with wire ties, gently lowered the end
through the sight gauge hole to the tank’s deepest point, which is at the
forward end of the tank, and used a hand pump to suck out about a gallon or
so of fuel from there. To my delight it came up clean and free of water, so
I figured (correctly, as it turned out) that it was safe to use. If it had
come up ugly, I would probably have pumped out more until it showed clear,
or if it looked too far gone, arranged for polishing.Of course, I had the advantage of a boat on the hard for a long time. Any
water and most dirt in the fuel tank would long ago have settled to the
deepest part of the tank. But even if your boat has been sitting in a calm
slip for a week, I believe you’d find most if not all of the gunk settled
to
the bottom.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hi All,
More questions from the noob. I apologize in advance for my likely silly questions.
So my previous 424 had 50 amp shore power hook up. The new one looks like it does too (based on the input in the cockpit). But the plug on the cord looks like a 30 amp (male side; it’s even plugged into the shore outlet that is marked 30 amp). Is it possible that someone has created a hybrid cord? Is this bad?
Also, I’m struggling to understand the nature of 50amp/125v versus 50amp 125/250v. Not sure which is appropriate for the P424 (though I believe it’s 50amp/125v). I’m very NON-technical, so a long electrical discussion won’t help me. Mostly, I’d just like to understand what others are using on their 424s to get shore power to their systems. Ideally, I’d like to do this as cost-effectively as possible.
Could it be as simple as a pigtail adaptor at the boat input and then using a standard 30amp cord for connectivity to 30amp show power?
Thank you,
Paul
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Thanks John,
Great advise. I appreciate the input.
Best,
PPaul Michael Audi
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Hi Everyone,
So I’m a new P424 owner. I’ve actually owned one before and been a part of the maillist, but since selling our last 424, I’ve mostly been a “list stalker”. You’ll probably get a lot of questions from me in the coming months as I try to figure out this new boat and all the systems.
I’m currently prepping to deliver the boat from the present location (Anacortes, WA) to Seattle. Hopefully it will be an easy 2-day trip, but of course, I’m overwhelmed with pre-travel work, new boat-owner anxiety and uncertainty with some of the PO’s systems.
Today, I actually have a couple easy questions for the group (or hopefully easy). Can anyone provide some information regarding the “fuel gauge arrow” (on the old original tank-mounted gauge you look at through the cockpit sole). Which way should it point, if the tank is full? If it’s empty? The glass is so foggy that I can see the needle, but I can’t make out any other markings (ie. F or E). The broker says he knows, but I’m alittle less than confident with his answer.
Another fuel question: do you think I require fuel polishing if the diesel has been sitting for 8 months? Again, the broker thinks it’s fine. The Racor looks very clear at this point (from running during sea trail), but once that tank sloshes around, who knows. I’d love some feedback. The last thing I want is a clogged filter/failing engine while transiting Deception Pass.
It’s a drop-in Racor (I’ve never had this before). If I had to replace it, can I accomplish it underway? Can I replace it without bleeding the lines (ie. putting new element in and topping up the filter canister with diesel)?Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
P
Paul
Talisman, Seattle WA
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Thanks Patrick. I appreciate the contact info too.
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Hi All,
Thanks so much for the great replies. So it seems like nobody here (or reading the forum lately) has used RiggingOnly very recently. Looks like Paul (2008) and Tor (2007) and it seems like $5k is the number.
Patrick’s Pt Townsend suggestion might be my way to go (since I’m in Seattle).
Again, thank you all for your suggestions.
Best,Paul
