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understood. I have a map of the different profiles.
On 12/5/2013 9:13 AM, quent wrote:
Make sure that the connections are the same. Can’t speak to profurl, but on harken different generations won’t always fit each other.
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I am getting a Facnor for my new code zero.
On 12/5/2013 7:43 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:That’s unhappy news about ProFurl. I’ve long thought
they were one of the good ones. What brand(s) are savvy
sailors buying these days?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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seems there a plenty available for $175 to $250 per section… But I
have found some used ones. I just have a 90 minute round trip car drive
to go get it.On 12/4/2013 8:56 PM, wrote:
Quote:My rigger mentioned to me last summer that Profurl is no longer providing parts. If you can find a piece you are fortunate.Regards
Rich
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Nice job.
I ended up cutting the old bed down and attaching angle iron with
brackets to the cross members. I kept the same angle as the old bed.
When we lowered the engine in we had to cut the front of the old bed out
a bit to clear the shaft. Thank goodness for the sawzall…On 11/5/2013 10:48 AM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Pete, I made a simple jig of the engine from 2×4’s and a length of 3/4″ plywood with a vertical surface at the tail with a mark that represented output coupler on the gear.
The jig was rested on wood blocks and shims to get it in plane with the v-drive input. With an idea now of how it would sit I trimmed the bilge gussets that were left behind after the removal of the old perimeter frame.
They were cut to create a uniform, slightly slanted surface towards the v-drive.I made mock up beds out of pine and luan. Tweaked that a few time and made a set of beds strong enough to support the weight of the engine out of FRP.
The angle where the feet set was still to shallow, the studs from the isolation mounts passed through the engine brackets about 5 degrees off square.
I made a second set with a steeper angle and some other improvements.
The studs are square in the brackets now. The depth of cutouts could be a bit deeper but it would make getting to the underside (mounting bolts) more difficult so the depth is a trade off. There’s still room for adjustment downward but I don’t think it will need it.Chuck
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Wow, gorgeous! How did you figure out those mounting angle on the bed?
Pete
On 11/4/2013 7:36 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Chuck
Looks great!
Linus
Live by the currents, plan by the tides and follow the sun
On Nov 4, 2013, at 12:21 PM, “Chuck Ruble” wrote:
Took all summer but it is nearing completion. A slow dance…
I thought I’d share some photos of the process.Chuck[/url]
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Actually, that depression is there in anticipation of the center fuel
tank I glassed into the hull and I too put a little bilge pump there to
move the forward water aft around the fuel tank. Clever forward thinker
that Perry guy.Pete
On 11/1/2013 9:58 AM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D. wrote:
I put a small automatic bilge pump in this depression to keep it dry and ran discharge into bilge. Really dumb design
S
Sent from my iPad
On Nov 1, 2013, at 12:27 AM, “Page Two” wrote:
What’s with the little pocket just forward of the mast in the bilge? Deep enough to hold a gallon or two of water and then sit there keeping the base of the mast wet because not only is there that pocket forward, they built a little 1/2″ tall dam just aft the mast on the edge of the step. What were they thinking? Has anyone done anything to this area like put in a tiny bilge pump, drill drainage holes?
I haven’t fished under the fwd water tank yet and I assume there is a limber from the chain locker. The water I have there at present (I hope, I saw it dripping during rain) is from a leak at some windlass wires running through the old hause from the deck chain locker.
Ken
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Great if you don’t mind paying over $1 every time you use the pot. That
stuff is pricey. Recurring expenses are the ones that make folks poor.On 10/25/2013 6:47 PM, Page Two wrote:
quent wrote:
The RVers who I’ve gotten to know lately are fond of a powder product called Poo Powder which is available from Amazon.com. The short of it is that it turns human waste into oderless solid stuff like a super version of kitty litter. It is a great compliment to the bag lined bucket.
Of course, a Walmart dumpster is a little harder to find at sea…
QuentQuent, Looks like that stuff is designed to absorb the pee and turn it to solid. Good idea if your not separating the pee and poo which is what you got to do. Maybe just a “pinch” or two on the poo would do.
And last months.Ken
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Thanks for checking.
On 10/25/2013 6:42 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Pete,
The links work for me now.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Should all be good now. Click away (reload the page first)
Pete
On 10/25/2013 4:52 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:Thanks for pointing that out. I thought I had fixed that a long time
ago. I will fix it now.Pete
On 10/25/2013 4:23 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Pete,
It looks like several of the links are to a file on your hard drive, not
your website. The link to the new cabin sole is one that works.
With the
links to your hard drive they would work on your system when you tested
them, but not on anyone else’s system.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Oct 25, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Pete Dubler
wrote:Quote:Links work just fine when I test them. Each article link opens a
separate
window. If that feature is blocked on your system, copy the link
and paste
into another browser tab address line.
There is plenty of information there on the Alexseal yacht paint
systems
(including how I did the decks).On 10/25/2013 1:33 PM, wrote:
Quote:Pete
Your links don’t appear to work. Is there something wrong with your
website?I’m curious about your deck painting experience. I’ve not found
anything
I like. I tried interlux 2-part but the deck was too slippery. I
tried
interlux deck paint but the grit is too aggressive and the paint holds
dirt. I tried Pettit EZDecks paint. Though the grit is also too
aggressive, the paint is more durable than interlux. I want
something that
gives a good grip, looks good, is durable, and sheds dirt.
Rich
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have at it.
On 10/25/2013 4:46 PM, Page Two wrote:
John and Pete, I’m glad to hear your happy with your purchase, others have told me the same thing. I’m not considering the Airhead or even the Natures Head both to me seemed over engineered and over priced. The C-head is a little better at keeping it simple using simple products, bucket and a gallon jug. It is WAY over priced for what it is, and still does the thing that my friend and many other long standing compost toilet owners on land believe……”don’t stir up the shit if you don’t have too”, let gravity do the job.
Do your duty, cover it up, simple as that. Every couple of weeks you can shake the bucket to settle the contents, but never stir!
A standard 5 gallon bucket lined with double medium kitchen trash bags and using peat moss lasts my friend 4 to 5 weeks with him and his wife. He says the bag is about one square foot of very, very, not smelly dried out crap. never even gets his hands dirty. He places that bag into another bag and drops into the most available trash container on shore. At sea he lines the bucket with newspaper and plops it over the side. A simple muffin fan is vented out from the box keeping a constant outflow. The urine, he says, he stores in a 5 gallon bucket and brings to shore when needed.That sounds about as simple as it can be to an old hiking, camping mountain man like me, and my wife is on-board completely as long as I make the cabinet pretty. A regular toilet seat with a urine diverter can be bought for $163, the fan about $5. if I’m going for it, I’m going cheap.
Think of the holes I can plug in the bottom.
Ken
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Thanks for pointing that out. I thought I had fixed that a long time
ago. I will fix it now.Pete
On 10/25/2013 4:23 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Pete,
It looks like several of the links are to a file on your hard drive, not
your website. The link to the new cabin sole is one that works. With the
links to your hard drive they would work on your system when you tested
them, but not on anyone else’s system.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Oct 25, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:Links work just fine when I test them. Each article link opens a separate
window. If that feature is blocked on your system, copy the link and paste
into another browser tab address line.
There is plenty of information there on the Alexseal yacht paint systems
(including how I did the decks).On 10/25/2013 1:33 PM, wrote:
Quote:Pete
Your links don’t appear to work. Is there something wrong with your
website?I’m curious about your deck painting experience. I’ve not found anything
I like. I tried interlux 2-part but the deck was too slippery. I tried
interlux deck paint but the grit is too aggressive and the paint holds
dirt. I tried Pettit EZDecks paint. Though the grit is also too
aggressive, the paint is more durable than interlux. I want something that
gives a good grip, looks good, is durable, and sheds dirt.
Rich
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Links work just fine when I test them. Each article link opens a
separate window. If that feature is blocked on your system, copy the
link and paste into another browser tab address line.
There is plenty of information there on the Alexseal yacht paint systems
(including how I did the decks).On 10/25/2013 1:33 PM, wrote:
Quote:Pete
Your links don’t appear to work. Is there something wrong with your website?I’m curious about your deck painting experience. I’ve not found anything I like. I tried interlux 2-part but the deck was too slippery. I tried interlux deck paint but the grit is too aggressive and the paint holds dirt. I tried Pettit EZDecks paint. Though the grit is also too aggressive, the paint is more durable than interlux. I want something that gives a good grip, looks good, is durable, and sheds dirt.
Rich
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I have. Love it so far. See article at our website which was in Blue
Water Sailing… and subscribe to BWS already.http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina%20Oceani/Regina_Oceani.html
Pete
On 10/25/2013 12:03 PM, Page Two wrote:
How many of you out there have made or tried the plunge into composting your crap?
I’m really considering it.
My boat has two heads with no direct overboard discharge. The holding tank has seen its final days, no need for me to explain the length of it’s abused life and it’s immediate surroundings in the bilge just forward of main bilge hatch, use your imagination. Even a new whole system which I have considered and priced, leaves me with the dread of keeping it all going and smelling fresh. I remember!!!!!!!!
I’ve been discussing the real and dirty facts of composting on a boat with a friend who built his own and has been using it year after year after year and the thing is…..it’s not dirty, it’s just different! One little tiny muffin fan drawing .01 amps. His has been running 24/7 for the last 5 years!!!!!
Any thoughts or opinions?
Someone must have made the leap!
Ken
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Very nice solution Hank.
Can I borrow your dummy shaft?
Pete
On 10/21/2013 9:57 AM, hs wrote:
Quote:Pete’s correct. In the water, starting with the prop shaft. The best way without removing the prop shaft on the hard is fixing the prop shaft at approximately ‘center’ position. You can check by diving and make sure it is centered at the hull, but sometimes the stuffing box tube is not centered with the propshaft. Regardless, fix the prop shaft at the proper position and then move the v-drive to get an exact match. Rotate the shaft 180 degrees to make sure it still aligns.Next you move the engine to get spot on. Most vibrations are due to engine misalignment. When I installed a new rv-28 drive we made a dummy drive shaft to perfectly align the transmission output flange with the input shaft of the v-drive drive. We did this with the drive shaft out of the boat, using only the v-dive input shaft and the dummy shaft. You would be surprised to see how far 424’s engines are out of alignment. Contrary to popular belief, the propshaft u-joint MUST be aligned in all dimensions to eliminate issues.
The dummy shaft is just a section of pipe that slips over the input shaft on the v-drive; the other end is a welded flange that was trued in a lathe. Be sure you fix the input shaft on the v-drive at the center position. Move the engine in all dimensions until the flanges perfectly align. We did Shay over 10 years ago and never had a vibration issue.
Hank S.
Ketch Shay #90
Lighthouse Point, FL________________________________
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Tor,
I will risk correcting Tor however I just read the Walter manual and
aligned my whole drive system since I just put the boat in the water
with a new engine recently. The v-drive is aligned to the prop shaft
first (and locked down) then the engine(jack shaft) is aligned to the
v-drive. How could you adjust the prop alignment if the v-drive were
already aligned to the engine?Definitely do it in the water, after the boat has settled a day or few.
Pete
On 10/21/2013 9:08 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Ken,Unless you have a long way to go before you reach the boat yard, you may
want to just wait and re-align the whole drive train when you re-launch.The shaft between the engine and the V-drive, which I call the jack shaft,
is aligned by first bolting the coupling at the transmission and then using
the V-drive’s several positioning adjustments to align the forward coupling,
where the jack shaft couples to the V-drive. The Walter V-drive manual
explains exactly how to do that. If you don’t have the manual I can email it
to you as a PDF file.Once the jack shaft is aligned, you then align the propeller shaft to
V-drive coupling as you would any other prop shaft coupling.If the boat has been running out of alignment for a while, it may need a new
cutlass bearing now. (Let me know if you have trouble removing the old one
and I’ll tell you a few tricks I learned when doing mine.) If/when you do
replace the cutlass bearing you’ll have to pull the prop shaft. You may as
well have it checked and trued on the lathe at Coats’ Machine Shop at the
marina road entrance. Chuck Coats is a good ol’ country boy and he won’t
overcharge you. (He’s also great at working with you to create custom bits &
pieces during your refit. Tell him I said hey.)While you’re at it, it does no harm (and might do some good) to also have
the propeller “reconditioned” if the PO never did. It only costs about $100.
Just bring it into the marina office, tell them what you want, and they’ll
have it picked up and delivered back within a week.If your V-drive has never been rebuilt, consider having that done by the
Walter factory in New Jersey. It isn’t cheap, but those things don’t last
forever on their own.Have fun,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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