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I get mine from Fisheries Supply. Free shipping with $99 order. Good
selection. Not sure how much my boat builder discount plays into the price.On 5/28/2014 11:33 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Anyone have a good online source for top quality
stainless steel fasteners? Pete?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Real sailors sail ketches.
On 5/25/2014 7:03 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hello Jason,
The ketch is a well balanced vessel and above about 12-15 knots the main
becomes unnecessary if you have a cutter rig (inner forestay), otherwise
you can carry the main up to 18-20 knots. The mizzen is far more than a
balancing sail allowing the boat to sail quite well under jib and jigger
(jib and mizzen).You can put a windvane on a ketch with no problems (mine had one, but I
opted for davits) in addition, you can get the offset steering gear that
Tor has on Silverheels.Converting a ketch is a terrible idea. The main mast is in a different
place, and you’re not likely to move it. Moreover, the ketch rig will pass
under a 49′ bridge where the sloop may not. A ketch is a far more
manageable rig for short handing, and if I were to recommend anything, it
would be to add a staysail.The Westerbeke 58 is perfectly adequate, although some of us have upgraded
to larger engines. I go hull speed at 2200 rpm which is about 80% of full
throttle and that’s the recommended loading for the most efficient use of
diesels.Hope this helps,
Bob
On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 2:46 PM,
wrote:Cutter/Sloop VS Ketch
Author:
Hello all, my wife and I are looking at several P424’s available on the
market today. I’m in love with the aft cabin/aft cockpit layout. I’ve
usually seen it as a ketch though. In looking over the sail and rigging
plan, I it appears to me that the mizzen is a bit too short and small to be
affective as anything other than a heavy wind/storm sail stabilizer. I am
also planning to install a self steering vane and the boom’s extension off
the stern would make this difficult. So, if we bought a ketch – we would
likely convert it.Has anyone converted their ketch to a sloop and/or cutter? I know they
offered a cutter model but they are few and far between with the interior
layout we prefer. That said, I’m hoping someone can answer these questions:Does the mast need to be moved aft to properly balance the rig?
OR was extending the boom enough?
How long is the boom “normally” in the sloop rig?
If you own a sloop/cutter rig, have you found any REAL value in a backstay
tensioner?
Several p424’s I’ve looked at have a 40-50hp Westerbeke in them – is that
engine truly powerful enough to push the boat at hullspeed without being at
OPEN throttle?Thanks for your help. MY wife and I built a Rhodes 34 and sailed the
bahamas for the last year or so, but we are now looking to upgrade and have
room to grow the family. This seems like the perfect boat and meets most of
my offshore criteria, and meets most of her layout criteria.Thanks!!!
—
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I have these steps and I used 1/4-20 screws and tapped the holes in the
mast.Pete
On 5/24/2014 3:11 PM, Page Two wrote:
Bob, I’ve looked at the Mast Mate but am disappointed that you need a track, all I have is a slot. I beieve I’m going with Sea Dog folding aluminum steps…
http://www.go2marine.com/product/209836F/sea-dog-line-folding-mast-step-aluminum.html
…and bummed I can’t find any at the price they used to be. Has any one used them and did you use threaded SS screws or pop rivets? I don’t think I will go pop rivets figuring they could weaken after lots of use. The only issue I see with screws is they need to be exactly the right length and carefully filed smooth as to not interfere with internal halyards.Ken
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Thanks for sharing the solution with us. I will add that to my
diagnostics library…Pete
On 4/30/2014 5:43 PM, cstewart wrote:
Hey guys; thanks for the help. I have solved the cranking problem. Fortunately it wasn’t a glow plug or fuel problem like I suspected from the symptoms. It was a faulty Kill-Switch cable that was bending when it was pushed back in and would not properly re-set the butterfly valve on the injector pump. Therefore the engine would turn over but not crank. All fixed!!
Fortunately, by trying some of the other fixes that were suggested I also found and fixed a fuel-air leak on my return line, and was able to find a good deal on some new/old Westerbeake parts that included some new injectors and glow-plugs that will be nice to have in the spares kit for that rainy day. Speaking of rainy day, we just had from 14 to 20 inches of rain in Gulf Shores/Pensacola. That makes for really high tides and muddy water.
Thanks again, everybody.
charlie
sv/ OneEighty
#54
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
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How many gallons and how in the world do you remove it? I once had an 8
gal holding tank there… not very useful. Instead I pulled up a large
piece of the salon sole and glassed a fuel tank into the hull – about 90
gallons. (BWS article on that on my webpage dublerfamily.com)Pete
On 4/4/2014 10:02 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:The fun never ends.My boat came with a sizeable stainless steel holding
tank occupying the space aft of the main mast,
stretching almost to the edge of the sump cliff.
Happily, it is removable. I pulled it to rearrange its
hose connection fittings, and kept it out for a while
so I could run new water hoses, mast wiring, forward
(windlass) battery cable, etc, etc. I can slide it out
through the floorboard hatch (above the sump) by myself
and manhandle it out of the boat, albeit awkwardly.
Can’t imagine refitting a 424 without full bilge and
under-sole access, at least for a while.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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yek… I have separate foot pumps for salt and for tank water.
On 4/4/2014 11:28 AM, Thatcher A. Stone – Attorney Communication wrote:
Quote:My foot pump either takes fresh water from a collected feed or salt. The
selector is behind the trash can holder on the wall beneath the sink. We
wash dishes with salt.
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That is an indication that the shaft seal is leaking. That is an easy
fix. Pull the pump and replace the seal. You don’t need to buy a
westerbeke part numbered seal. Just get to the seal and measure its
height and diameter and measure the shaft diameter. You can then get a
new seal at any industrial supply (look up bearings in the yellow pages
or google equivalent). Go ahead and change the bearings while you are
in there as well. All cheap and easy.Pete
On 3/3/2014 5:29 PM, kalinowski wrote:
I finally chased down a coolant leak on the old W-58. It’s coming from a bleed hole on the bottom of the shaft housing. Does this mean the pump is bad? Can it be rebuilt? I’ve never been this way, so looking for guidance from all.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Alan, what to you use to turn the mizzen staysail sheet near the
gooseneck so you have the least interference with Bimini? Do you leave
the mizzen staysail sheet rigged on the boom when not using the staysail?Thanks,
Pete
On 2/25/2014 11:03 AM, Alan wrote:
Mizzen sheet to rail. Mizzen stay sail sheet along boom and down mast.
No pictures.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2014, at 10:30 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
I think most of us have put the sheet to the stern rail.
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.On Feb 25, 2014 10:20 AM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:
Very strange… let’s try again…
Imagine if you will putting all of the blocks and padeyes from your boat
in a big box for four years and then remembering exactly how each was
mounted while also replacing a bunch of them with new Garhauer hardware….
I just didn’t take enough pictures first. Now I could use some advice
or pictures on how folks rigged their mizzen sheet near the gooseneck.
Our Bimini is high and the sheet needs to run tighter in that turn to keep
from rubbing holes in the front edge of the Bimini fabric. Suggestions
and pictures greatly appreciated.Pete
On 2/25/2014 9:04 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
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I really appreciate the thoroughness and quality of your documentation
John. Thanks!On 2/25/2014 12:40 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Same here, sheet tackle on the stern rail:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Running_Rigging_-_Mizzen_MastActually I have two sets of sheet tackle on the mizzen. When sailing down
wind I move the one tackle to the running backstay padeye, which gives me
an effective vang on the boom. I use the other tackle to control the boom
while I’m moving the other one.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 11:08 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Ditto.Quote:
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Very strange… let’s try again…
Imagine if you will putting all of the blocks and padeyes from your boat
in a big box for four years and then remembering exactly how each was
mounted while also replacing a bunch of them with new Garhauer
hardware…. I just didn’t take enough pictures first. Now I could
use some advice or pictures on how folks rigged their mizzen sheet near
the gooseneck. Our Bimini is high and the sheet needs to run tighter
in that turn to keep from rubbing holes in the front edge of the Bimini
fabric. Suggestions and pictures greatly appreciated.Pete
On 2/25/2014 9:04 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Wow, a foot or more from center line… that sounds like a bow thruster
or stern thruster as the case may be.For me, the zen of the spring line is where it’s at. We now have the
first slip inside a T-head with another similar slip opposite and have
to turn right into the slip when returning to it. So Jill steps off
with the bow line and we spring off the end piling until the boat points
down the slip. An aft spring on the dock side becomes are parking brake
while we tie off the other lines. Spring from the boat with a looped
line to get out easily. (I think Tor taught me)Pete
On 2/24/2014 5:18 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:Nah, just been under a lot of boats, and then asked why the props aren’t
anywhere near they’re supposed to be.On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 5:13 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Damn, you’re smart.Thanks.
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Re tools dropping into the deep bilge, I have 1) installed an automotive
dome light under the sole and 2) keep one of those long
grab-things-off-the-shelf tools from Harbor Freight hanging right inside
the hatch to the bilge. Amazing how small and large of objects you can
pick up with one of those when you can see the object.Pete
On 1/10/2014 2:40 PM, wrote:
Quote:Over the past few years, I’ve given serious consideration to filling the keel. I hate that deep sump. I have tools dropped down there that have been missing for decades. After hearing this horror story, I think I’ve dropped the idea of filling it. I considered dumping blocks of pressure treated wood down there and then filling the void with concrete. What stumped me was a good way to get the filler to stick to the inside of the sump. If water got in there, subsequent freeze/thaw cycles would cause the filler to separate from the keel.Someone filled their keel with concrete and then glassed over the top many years ago. This may be #91. If so, you’ll need a jack-hammer to get rid of the stuff.
Rich
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Sounds great. Link to Facebook site?
Pete
On 1/9/2014 1:16 PM, Richard Jank wrote:
I replaced my cheap swing out davits with a more substantial custom made
and welded unit which holds my
10.5 ft rib with or without outboard. It has a welded crossbar frame
which holds my 4 Kyocera 135 watt solar
panels side by side. The mizzen boom is a non issue with these newer
panels. I have the panel wired in series
for a total 80 volts fed to a Morningstar 45 amp MPPT controller…The Max
I have seen in summer condx is
36 amps flowing into the battery bank (450 amp hour). Pics available at my
facebook site under my name and the
go back 6-12 months to see pics of boat and installation.Richard Jank
sv DreamKetcher hull #63
Pearson 424
currently in Lapaz, MX.
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I did indeed. Crazy story… I drove 45 minutes to the boat yard where
I had launched my boat to pick up a section from a bloke (English fellow
in fact) who said he had one. It was not even close to what I had and
probably not even made by profurl. But while there I asked the yard
owner for any suggestions and that lead me to a loft which turned out
had a section in their pile of tubing, etc. So we put up the rig on
Saturday only to find that the 5/8″ clevis pins I ordered, though
labeled 5/8″ were actually 3/4″… so the adventure continues. So I
crewed on a racing boat yesterday instead of sailing our boat.All the best,
Pete
On 12/8/2013 8:32 PM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Pete, did you find a replacement segment for the top extrusion yet?
Chuck
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