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got itI am one who was very much not attached to those clunky old lamps that Pearson supplied. First chance I got I replaced them with gooseneck reading lamps (http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Interior%20Light%201.JPG). They not only looked much nicer, but were easily directed to reading material, and worked well as area lights when pointed directly down. Even better they could be used as internal lights for the lockers above the settee backs (http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/CabinLights/DSCF0023.JPG).The downside is they are all nearly 15 years old and tarnished beyond restoration. I've been looking for similar replacements with no luck. WM doesn't carry them anymore, most retailers sell only dinky little chartlights with a gooseneck. I did find one suitable replacement, but at $250 each!!!!!!!Still looking.The aluminum opening ports are original equipment on at least the early models. Mine is #2 and has the ports. I think Pearson switch to the Beckson ports sometime during the production run. The rest of my ports are fixed with aluminum frames and tempered glass lenses.Chris,Welcome to the email list.I'm only guessing, but if the shaft does not turn until the RPMs are raised well above idle I would suspect the tranny. If it is a Velvet Drive it requires pressure in the transmission fluid to engage the gear and transfer the engine RPMs to the shaft. Check to insure you have fluid in the tranny. If you have a good fluid level then I would turn to a VD expert.“Your photo shows a round “thing” aft of the breaker panel.”Probably a stereo speaker. My PO put one there. After several years I finally filled it with small breaker panel.Centerline makes the most sense to me unless your configuration dictates otherwise.The wide flat section of the aft portion of the hull certainly will flex. My surveyor pointed that out to me by pushing the hull with a stick and watching it flex. The forward section is probably more critical because it will take more punishment in rough seas.I have no recommendation for fixing this issue as I made two Atlantic crossing on the original hull. I'd rather be lucky than good.Great work Ewan. Thanks again for your efforts.Tor,When my sails were new I could tack within a 150 deg window, maybe 140 deg in a flat sea and a steady breeze. That's with a 135 laminate genoa and a fully battened main. However, I normally used Rich's criteria for initiating a tack – go for a 90 deg tack and then ease the sheets if I could point higher.That said, I'm trying to think of the last time I tacked to windward and wasn't motorsailing. Don't think that's happened in the last 10 years. Now tacking downwind ….âI would tighten the nut on the stuffing box and clean up everything âso you can monitor the fitting to see if it is really leaking around the base, before going radical. Slow leaks through the packing are common. Does your stuffing box look worse than mine in the picture I linked in my previous post? That was before the first time the packing nut was tightened. That took care of the problem for several years, when I had the packing replaced. The repacking was several years ago, and it is probably leaking again.Scott,I assume the flange you are referring to is the stuffing box on the rudder post (http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Rudder%20SB%206.JPG). It is nearly identical to the stuffing box on the prop shaft, if that hasn't been replaced with a drip-less seal.You should be able to tighten or repack the stuffing box without removing any other equipment, depending on what else you have put in the aft lazarette and how small and flexible you are to work in that space.I usually have to hire a boatyard munchkin for that as I have a NL genset in the lazarette, and I am a wide-body type. Or in the case of this picture (http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Rudder%20SB%20Martin%201.JPG), I got a wee welsh friend to do the deed. He did have to disconnect one of the steering cable sheaves in order to reach the stuffing box with a long wrench.if you have MS Office on your Wintel system it includes MS Picture Manager, which can be used to resize your photos. It has several pre-set sizes anyone of which will do the job.Here's a screen capture of what the app looks like:http://screencast.com/t/tFB3S2QKXQOI try to remember to resize my pictures, which are normally taken at 4k pixels wide, but I often forget. So if they cause a problem, it would be best if the server just stripped any attachment over, say, 2MB.Many of the pictures I share have been uploaded to my website so I can just provide a link in my email. Others can choose whether or not to view the picture and kill the download if it is too big. I also use a product call JING to take screen captures, such as the one above. JING is free and includes free temporary storage for the captures.âFinished the repair with only 3 trips to Ace Hardware. A new record for me. As Rich and Tor posted, everything needed is standard household plumbing.
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Thanks, Tor, the picture helps as I still haven't emptied the area under the sink so I can start work. It reminds me that the last time I replaced the faucet I planned to replace all of the drain fittings, but I didn't want to add more trips to HD for that project. I usually measure the difficulty of a boat repair, not in cost or time, but the number of trips to Loew's, HD, Ace, etc. My goal is to keep that number in single digits, but I seldom achieve that goal. Since I might as well replace the faucet while I'm in there (it is starting fail), this will probably be another double digit project.JohnP.S., the inboard sink is the one on the left in your picture.ðThey may be brass, I haven't climbed under the sink to get a close look. I'd like a quick fix for now that doesn't require replacing the hoses (that comes later) cause I'd just finished dinner and have a sink full of dishes to clean.
