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Tor: I figured something was going on. I have missed your experience and plethora of comments from the McGiver of 424’s. Some of us have been rebuilding our boats one part at a time using the guidance from you guys who have already done it. I wish you well in your next voyage.When I saw the picture in your Cruising World article last month I immediately said “I’ve been there, I slept under that boat one night.” I was wrong though. It looked like a place in Bequia.Best to you.CharlieOneEighty #54I spent one winter in the Great Lakes (2010) and as soon as it thawed out we headed back south. I learned that it is expensive to pull, wrap and winterize a boat every year. Plus, you can’t sail when the water is hard and if you fall in the water you die. You yanks are more hardy than I. One advantage to pulling the boat every year is that you get to check out what’s going on with the bottom of the boat. In the south we may not do that for a few years, and sometimes bad things happen down under that we don’t know about until it becomes serious.CharlieOneEighty #54
Sorry, I have had no problems or experience with the rudder post, but I did grease mine after your post. It’s the only thing that hasn’t broken yet.
Charlie
OneEighty #54That appears to be a very old list. My boat is not listed by me or my PO. It would be great to have an updated list that would tell us how many of these grand old ladies are still sailing. That speaks a lot for the brand. I would also find it interesting to know how many of the old W60’s and 58’s are still operating, and who has re powered and to whatAm I missing something here. I feel left out that I have never had this problem of castling chain. I use only 65 feet of G4 and the rest 3/4 twisted line.
My biggest frustration is the line tangling, but try to figure 8 it as it comes in and that takes care of the tangle. Of course, I also usually only anchor in approximately 10 feet of water. I use the original anchor locker without any alterations with a rebuilt, rebuilt, rebuilt Simpson Lawrence SeaWolf.
Charlie
OneEighty #54Do you have the fresh-water pump for the W60 engine? I am interested in buying it.
You can contact me at 770-313-5115 or sailoneeighty@gmail.com. Thank you.
Charlie Stewart
Pearson 424, #54
sv/ OneEightyI finally got the pipe out of the manifold using heat, cool, 18″ pipewrench, a bigger hammer and someone who knows what to do. My mixing elbow is now replaced and like new. Can you believe that now I have a new problem. While testing the engine and leaning over it, I can hear the fresh-water-pump bearings singing to me. Not a good song.
I know most of you don’t still have the old M60, but almost all of you know lots of stuff about them. Can someone give me any comforting news that I may be able to find a fresh-water-pump or parts for rebuild for this W60 beast. Im at a loss, and afraid of what I am reading about their scarcity. Does anyone have a part number for pump or kit?
Thanks,
Charlie
OneEighty #54I just accept that it is a good way to keep my bilge flushed out with fresh water. Also, it serves as sort of an audible alarm when the tank is full. I can hear the bilge pump running.
Charlie
OneEighty #54For anyone else who has the same problem with the W60 here is the catalog pic for the mixing elbow.
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Thanks, guys. I was able to find the Westerbeke part through my local marine supplier (Saunders Marine) and there was only one on the shelf at Westerbeke. Part # 33067. I ordered it and although I thought it was expensive ($230) it is much less than the same part for my old Volvo. Looks like you could make one up with 1.5″ pipe from the hardware store for $25. Has anyone done that? My problem now is getting the old 6″ pipe screwed out of the manifold. I have PB Blasted it, heated it, frozen it and put an 18″ pipe wrench on it. No movement, and starting to warp the pipe. I think I will soak it for several days in PB Blaster and see if that helps. Are there any magic tricks I haven’t tried? Worse case, I think I could perhaps use the old pipe as a nipple and connect the mixer elbow with heavy exhaust hose and clamps. My biggest concern is that I don’t break the old pipe off in the Manifold.
Thanks for your feedback. Mine never stopped up, it just corroded severely under the insulation wrap, and I never saw it.
Charlie
OneEighty #54Rob:
I have had two encounters with the strut, and both turned out with less cost than I thought. On my old Pearson 323 I lost my strut to galvanic corrosion and when I could not find a way to get a new bronze cast, I had a local (Gulf Shores, AL) machine shop make one of SS. It was stronger and cost only about $600. This year, on the 424, on my return from Cuba, I had a boo-boo that bent the strut and the shaft. Fortunately I was able to get into Key West and when we pulled the boat we found the bronze strut had about a 13 degree bend in it. They were able to put it on a press and straighten it for about $300. However the shaft had two counter-bends in it, and it had to be replaced. That was all very expensive. I have wondered that if the strut had been stainless, it may not have bent but may have pulled the bolts out of the bottom, which would have changed the complexity of my problem. As it was, the boat was never at risk of sinking, but it does make you worry when the strut gets that kind of pressure.
Charlie Stewart
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