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Patrick: mine had the longer neck fittings too so I just had them build it out using the same tip-to-tip length. One hose ended up about 2″ longer so I had to tweak the engine fitting so it would screw in at a different angle.
I wonder how difficult it would be to survey all owners and see how many are still running the original Westerbeke power plants.
I just had to replace an injector line and from the information I got from guys on this forum, I found a great diesel shop that made it up and while I was at it, I had them make all three of my oil lines that were old, original and leaky. Just as I was told and later found out, there are no new parts for the W60. I gave the dealer the part numbers and he simply said “discontinued”. It may be different for the W58, though. The company was D&W Diesel Shop in Albany, NY, but they have offices in Cleveland, Buffalo, Rochester, Auburn NY (where they made up the injector lines, ferruls and nuts), Worchester MA, and Mid-Atlantic (?) (888.858.1188). The cost for the injector line, three oil lines and an emergency injector line (a high pressure flexible metal hose with proper fittings) was $261.46.
I had thought of swedging a fitting onto a brake line but those ferrules look different from any I have seen. They are not cone shaped, but are round and fit succinctly into the injector. Will a diesel shop have something like that or is it unique to the Westerbeke injectors?
Patrick, I found the Reflectix at Lowes and it is going to be perfect. Thanks.
I still don’t know the dimensions of the U galley fridge box. I am not at the boat (it is in Lake Erie and I am in Alabama) and I want to have it to take with me when I go on Tuesday. I’m thinking I might want to sew the edges with my “new” used heavy duty Pfaff sewing machine. At this point just sewing a square is at the top of my skillset abilitiy.If someone is living on their boat with the U galley, or is fairly close, I would appreciate the fridge box dimensions (length X width).
Thanks,
CharlieI am thinking a two staged approach. First I need an immediate cool boost for a trip I am starting next week. Planned material for that is an insulated/quilted space blanket (Academy Sports) for about $4.95 that I will cut and make a blanket to lay over the food stuff to keep the cool from rushing out when I open the thing to get the mayonaise. Kinda like that “cool bag” they sell at Walmart. That’s why I need inside diminsions.
I saw in one of the sail mags recently where they sell a “custom” refrigerator/icebox blanket for 15cents per square inch. I am assuming the concept works, so I make the blanket for $4.95.Then, later, I plan to do the insulation job similar to what Tor did. I have a friend who did almost the same thing with his Pearson 39 and it worked great. He used that Home Depot white plastic paneling and 5200 over some kind of foam or styrofoam. I will have to look at the old write-up that Tor did.
Well, I didn’t think about that. I have the U shaped galley with the fridge to your starbd if you are facing the stove, which is on the port side of the boat.
Yes, I have thought of keeping it on the mast. I looked at pictures of Whoosh and it looks like that is what they have done. It appears that the track goes up far enough to take the car up around the spreaders which leaves the bottom to be clipped on to a pole mount which is attached to the deck. Since I don’t have a track, and wasn’t planning on the expense of one with the cars and adjustment blocks, etc., I was wondering if I could just put a padeye on the mast at the top of the pole and a pole mount bracket on the bottom like Whoosh. I don’t have a topping lift and do not plan to have one for the pole. I have always just attached the pole to the sail clew and then to the mast padeye manually. Anyone think of reasons I wouldn’t want to do that..
Thanks for any comments;
CharlieTor:
I am new to the 424 family (just bought my boat last year #53 but I have refurbished the hatches on my Pearson 323 of 25 years and now have just redone the three on the 424. They are exactly the same. (I’m a fool for old Pearsons). Since my hatches are still dry after 2 years, I thought I’d share my experience. There are still Bomar parts available but they are expensive. Since the original Bomar hatches are very heavy duty cast aluminum, I chose to keep them and put in new parts. New ones aren’t made this well unless you go to stainless steel frames. The only places a hatch can leak are: 1. from the rubber seal/gasket, 2. from the acrylic coming un-bedded from the frame or cracked, and 3. from the frame mounting in the cabin-top. Unless you have the latter, which I think is very rare, I wouldn’t fix what “ain’t broke”. In my case, I removed the ring pins in the hatch tops and took them to the shop. For the hole, I made a temp scrap plywood top with a window weather seal from Lowes around the top of the hatch, then screwed it to a 1″ strip across the bottom of the hatch to keep it tight. (interestingly, it was more water tight than my hatches).
Two of the hatches I had sand blasted and then primed with zinc-chromate and then re-painted black. I had dark bronze acrylic 1/4 inch cut to the size of the original. The original glass was 7/16″ but the added strength might be better under foot and it fits perfectly. After contacting West Marine and the engineers at BoatLife in Charleston, I went with the LifeSeal black polyurethane/”sillycone” sealer. Tape the outside of the rim with the blue or green painters tape and the new acrylic should have a paper seal covering it on both sides. Remove one side of the paper and seat that side of the acrylic onto the hatch that has been bedded with the LifeSeal. I sanded about 1/2 inch around the acrylic window to help adhesion. A note of caution here. The frames have a groove that is made to put the sealer in. Fill the groove, but also run a bead above the groove to ensure that the acrylic is properly sealed. The groove alone can leave gaps since it is so deep. After the acrylic is placed and weighted (I used a small toolbox that weighs about 12 lbs.) then you can go back with the cauk gun (LifeSeal) and run a finish bead around the edges. Just like cauk, it smoothes nicely with a wet finger. I found that the toolbox works better than C-clamps which tend to push out too much sealer. I bought one new latch-dog and used it for parts to replace the spring on one and the knob/rod on another. The new ones have a plastic hook-latch, while the old ones are cast aluminum. Do not settle for a hardware store cheaper rubber seal. I learned the hard way, It doesn’t fit properly, and it causes the latch-dogs to not do their job properly. The proper rubber seal (round) will cost about $1 a foot. All in all, I had less than $100 in each hatch refurb counting acrylic, paint, seal, rubber etc. A new hatch cost about $600 and probably isn’t as good as these. The hatches look like new and hopefully are good for another 30 years.Skip: My first thought was to not do anything as drastic as filling the bilge with an irreversable procedure, but after you explained your situation, it does present a little different rationale. Is the fiberglass tank over the bilge something like a holding tank that has been added? I would have to think about maybe removing it and going back to the original layout if that is the case. In any case, like you, I would not want to have a bilge that I couldn’t get to. There are too many things that go bump in the night to have a bilge you cant see. How do you clean/repair/replace the bilge pump?
Charlie
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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Skip: My first thought was to not do anything as drastic as filling the bilge with an irreversable procedure, but after you explained your situation, it does present a little different rationale. Is the fiberglass tank over the bilge something like a holding tank that has been added? I would have to think about maybe removing it and going back to the original layout if that is the case. In any case, like you, I would not want to have a bilge that I couldn’t get to. There are too many things that go bump in the night to have a bilge you cant see. How do you clean/repair/replace the bilge pump?
Charlie
