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Dan
If its a pencil zinc like what I had in my W60, West Marine carried them and probably still does. They have a store in Honolulu. The stock zinc was a bronze plug with a zinc pencil. I could frequently remove the old zinc and replace it rather than buy the plug and zinc. Being a cheap SOB, that’s what I usually did. Try heating the pencil with the plug in a vise. Then unscrew the pencil using a pair of vise-grips to hold it.You could of couse order one from a Westerbeke dealer, but hold onto your wallet!
My Yanmar has no engine zincs.
Hope this helps
Rich
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Would that be the zinc near the end of the heat exchanger? If so, I think it is a standard size pencil zinc on a brass plug. Probably you will have to shorten it a bit. Rich is right, West sells this stuff, but I’d replace the brass plug as well.
Take the ends off and clean out the zinc debris in the cooling tubes. Also take a good look at the two screws that hold the ends on (unless you have the flanged multiple bolt design heat exchanger) since Westerbeke states that they are brass. Without effective zinc protection, they could fail and could flood the boat.
Quent -
Quent/Rich:
Thanks for the info. I became “intimate” with the cooling system on Lady Leanne after throwing a belt. After an 8 knot sail with one reef, it was an exciting short tack back through the reef cut to my dock with no power. The crap cooked loose and it looked like Campbell’s soup in there (just bought the boat and hadn’t checked the cooling system yet). There is a sticker on the heat exchanger that says “check zinc monthly”. It was still functional, but I will attend to it religiously.I will also check out the end bolts. How do you clean out the tubes? Do you just push wads through there like a rifle?
I also have a Hunter 33.5 with a Yanmar back in our home base of Atlanta….no engine zincs here either, so I’m learning new stuff daily!
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne (135)
Honolulu -
You can work through minor issues or emergencies by sticking a coat hanger through the little holes in the Heat Exchanger. But the correct way to do it is to have it boiled at a radiator shop. That’s what we did with mine anyway.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I used to remove the heat exchanger, not a lot of fun, and pour a little muriatic acid in and shake. After a couple of minutes of boiling I would flush well with water over and over again. This is the method that the boat yard used when I was hanging out with the mechanics. I spoke to Mike Bogie after he had an overheating problem and he said that the yard just poured a delimer into the water strainer while the engine ran. The product they use is called red line I think. It’s the same thing that they suggested to me to eat the gunk out of the vdrive.
Linus
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Wire hanger in the tubes is dangerous. Up through the zinc hole might
be an option, though. The copper cooling lines are soft and thin. In a
pinch this summer I used a hose with massive water pressure, switching
between ports (in, out, repeat-just like the ketubah says).-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)On Jan 12, 2009, at 1:06 AM, Patrick Walters <>
wrote:You can work through minor issues or emergencies by sticking a coat
hanger
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