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Hey Guys
It’s time to cut some holes in the boat. I’ve contemplated the windlass installation for over a year now. I like Mary’s install on Parallax, but I don’t think I want to cut up the anchor locker hatch. I want to install the windlass just aft of the hatch like Aurora. I want to drop the chain through the opening in the bulkhead at the foot of the vberth. I think that it would be better than cutting the bulkhead. There it will fall into the deepest point of the chain locker. I plan to use a solid fiberglass backing plate and pvc pipe to guide the chain into the locker. Any suggestions on how to attach the pvc to the deck/backing plate? I am planning to just use epoxy but if I mix it thick enough to stay in place upside down I’ll only have 10 seconds to work with it. I guess when I get the windlass mounted I can remove the windlass and tape around the pvc to pour the epoxy in from above.
Does anyone how thick is the deck in the area just behind the anchor locker hatch?
Does anyone see a problem with dropping the chain just behind the forward vberth bulkhead and direct it through the opening into the chain locker? I am referring to the opening locker on the bow deck as the anchor locker and the space below that as the chain locker. Just in case I am confusing ya’ll with my technical jargon.Thanks
Linus
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I’d look at attaching a fitting to the backing plate which then attaches to the PVC. You might be able to find a coupler fitting that fits inside your backing plate which you can epoxy together and then use PVC glue to attach the coupling to the PVC pipe.
I’m looking at doing basically the same thing to attach a 3″ Nicro vent to the 1.5″ hose for my composting head. I still haven’t found the right coupler yet.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Linus,
There is a PVC coupling like what Patrick is describing. I used one to make a deck pipe for my stern anchor rode. Not sure what its real function was meant to be, but I believe it would work perfectly in your application. I won’t be back aboard my boat for another week, but can photograph it then if you’re still interested. With that fastened to the underside of the deck with screws or bolts, you could then glue the PVC tubing into the fitting with ordinary PVC glue and you’d have a strong, permanent fairlead for your rode.
BTW, you you can make West epoxy plenty thick enough to stay in place upside down using the slow-hardening resin, the normal amount of hardener, and enough of the adhesive thickener powder to achieve the consistency you want. I think the additive is the No. 404 stuff. It’ll take hours for the mix to set up, but will then be hard as cement. However, if you use the fitting and PVC glue I mentioned above, you won’t need epoxy.
I opted to cut out the center section of the original anchor locker base to open up the chain locker to its full potential size, then decked over the foredeck and mounted my windlass directly above the now-divided and very large locker. If that’s a bigger project than you want to take on, then why not just mount your windlass onto the bottom of the existing anchor locker, directly above the chain locker, and skip all the fancy PVC stuff? That’s how my boat was built by Pearson. I think I still have the original raised Pearson hatch cover to allow for that (photo attached), which I removed and to which you are welcome.
I believe the original foredeck thickness on my boat as Pearson built it is 1/2″, including the balsa core.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I can’t speak to the PVC coupling thing your looking for. BUT… and I can’t stress this enough. Be very careful about where and how the chain enters the CHAIN locker. If the angle is too shallow, a muddy chain will stick. You need enough height to allow the chain to pile up under the pipe without the links becoming “solid” and jamming the windlass. Also if the pile gets too high and “falls over” then the whole thing becomes tangled.
Just more to think about.
alan— On Sun, 12/28/08, Silver Heels <> wrote:
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You’re absolutely right about the angle and height needed, Alan. However, I carry lots of chain on my cruising boats and the pile invariably topples over in the locker while I’m retrieving the anchors, yet I’ve never had it become tangled as a result.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Somewhere I've seen an article about the tangling of chains. I can't find it now, of course, but experience has shown me (and Tor, too) that piled chains don't tangle or don't tangle easily. Unlike nylon rode which can form loops within loops due to variable stiffness along the length, chain has no flexural stiffness and so can't fold underneath itself.
Of course, when trying to anchor in heavy wind and seas, this may change because you need the chain to pay out smoothly.
The biggest problem is the piling up against the feeder from the windlass. That can jam all too easily.
My windlass is forward of the anchor locker hatch stacked about 2″ off the deck with HDPE blocks. It seems to work ok, but I'd like it to be a little higher as the chain lead is not as straight as I like.
Bob
On Sun, Dec 28, 2008 at 10:22 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:You're absolutely right about the angle and height needed, Alan. However, I carry lots of chain on my cruising boats and the pile invariably topples over in the locker while I'm retrieving the anchors, yet I've never had it become tangled as a result.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I think it’s too big. Don’t you want it small enough so the chain can’t rotate and the back link can push out the front link if it stops.
My current setup from the PO the pipe is biger and I often get two-tree links jammed up in there.
On 12/28/08 8:10 AM, Linus Martinez wrote :
Quote:Thanks GuysI think that I’ve found the fitting. Do ya’ll think that 2″ pvc is big enough to feed the chain without clogging? I plan on using (2) 22.5 angle bends to turn the pipe into the chain locker.
Linus
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It’s got a single 45.
I’m planning on ripping the whole thing out rather than trying to fix it. I hate the windlass.
On 12/28/08 8:28 AM, Linus Martinez wrote :
Quote:AaronWhat kind of bends are in the pipe?
Linus
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What I’ve done is to load the 1st 125 feet in such a manner that all works well. I normally use 125 for around my area on weekends. After that, I may have to use Rich Carters approach….. knock down the castle with a boat hook.
alan— On Sun, 12/28/08, Silver Heels <> wrote:
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Linus,
My only concern with the way you plan to route the chain is that you may not have enough free vertical drop to store a reasonable amount of chain without having to go below and level the pile. Windlass manufacturers typically talk of needing a minimum of two feet of free drop above the stacked chain. I’m not sure I achieve that on Aurora but I do know that that installation works well with up to 200′ of 5/8 chain in the locker (I carry 300′ but store the last 100′ behind the bow water tank).
With regard to deck thickness, as I recall, the thickness where the windlass is mounted includes the cored deck plus glassed in athwart ship reinforcement. My guess is that it is about 1 1/2″ – 1 3/4″ total. I don’t know the specifics of the windlass you have selected but, be sure to consider the elevation of the chain wheel with respect to the incoming chain from the chain stopper to minimize angular missalignment. You will note from the photos on the web site that Aurora’s windlass is raised above the deck by 2″ -3″ for that reason. Maxwell offers the windlass I used with mounting provisions for deck thickness up to four inches and an option for up to 6 inches. I needed the option.
Good luck,
Phil Fontaine
Aurora – Ketch # 94Quote:
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Phil
I plan to drop the chain at the furthest aft position in the chain locker so I hope that will have the most room for chain. I am coastal at this point so I only carry 80′ of chain. I anchor most often in 6 to 12 feet so I can run out to the nylon and I am set. The windlass allows for a 10 degree deflection I had been measuring to the roller. Now I have to look at the chain stopper location. I hope that it doesn’t change things. My windlass works to a 2″ thickness. With the pad, deck and backing plate I should be close to that. Thanks for the input.
Linus
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One more question. My neighbor in Oriental worked for the boat yard here for years and when he walked up when I was fitting parts in the shop he suggested using a bronze thru hull and hose in stead of pvc. Since I am putting a teak pad under the windlass I would have room to do this. It seems like a great idea. I had worried about the pvc being worn down by the chain. The hose could easily be replaced should it wear. I don’t think that it would wear any faster than the pvc would. Any experience or comments?
Happy New Year!
Linus
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Sounds reasonable to me, I would be a little worried about letting out the chain, having it ‘catch’ the end of the hose and folding it in half or inside out. But in real life I think it’s probably unlikely.
I wonder if it would be smart to put a through hull on the bottom of the hose too? It would take the brunt of the wear and naturally keep the hose weighted down.
On 12/31/08 6:33 AM, Linus Martinez wrote :
Quote:One more question. My neighbor in Oriental worked for the boat yard here for years and when he walked up when I was fitting parts in the shop he suggested using a bronze thru hull and hose in stead of pvc. Since I am putting a teak pad under the windlass I would have room to do this. It seems like a great idea. I had worried about the pvc being worn down by the chain. The hose could easily be replaced should it wear. I don’t think that it would wear any faster than the pvc would. Any experience or comments?Happy New Year!
Linus
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Thinking about this more, when you store your anchor, One chain link will be against the bronze all the time, wouldn’t that cause a galvanic corrosion issue?
On 12/31/08 6:33 AM, Linus Martinez wrote :
Quote:One more question. My neighbor in Oriental worked for the boat yard here for years and when he walked up when I was fitting parts in the shop he suggested using a bronze thru hull and hose in stead of pvc. Since I am putting a teak pad under the windlass I would have room to do this. It seems like a great idea. I had worried about the pvc being worn down by the chain. The hose could easily be replaced should it wear. I don’t think that it would wear any faster than the pvc would. Any experience or comments?Happy New Year!
Linus
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Aaron
Found a galvanized pipe flang that I can mount from the inside with a pipe nipple for the hose. I may try using a nipple on the other end but I worry about the lip on the inside of the hose catching the rope. I guess it will depend on how I wind up running the hose through the bulkhead. I may be able to secure it as it passes through.
Was all set to cut holes and found a leak in the plumbing in the house. There went that day.
I will work on the windlass in a week or so, when there is time.Linus
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