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The engine is out. To relieve stress on the V-drive input spline it made sense to remove the V-drive input shaft… ok so I have the top shaft out, well then why not replace the stuffing box hose. It so much more accessible now, all I have to do is free the lower shaft from the V-drive… you see where this is going right?
Actually the lower shaft wasn’t that difficult to take off however the shaft refuses to part from the coupling so I’ll return next week with a gear puller to get that off, then I’ll be able to get the packing assembly off and and a new hose back there. The old one looks original. The hose clamps even worse. Those photos in Seaworthy with “claim #456-894363” under it… yeah it would have fit right in there.
So where’s the 3rd and 4th project you ask? While messing with the lower coupling it was apparent 30w gear oil was finding its way past the lower output seal (part number 8). To replace that seal you have to open the V-drive from the back and remove the end nut that secures the output assembly, the unit has to come out. I managed to coax the thing out without snapping any bolts nor dropping anything into the bilge. As its coming out I hear something go down there (bloop). But what? All the tools and and parts are accounted for.
What I finally retrieve is that little square end of a pipe plug. On the upper back corners of the V-drive (facing the bow) are two pipe plugs. On the V-drive parts drawing they are part 6F. What was left of one looked like an old penny in a fuse box. I poked at it with a screwdriver, a toothpick would have had the same effect. It went right through. I grasped the other with a wrench, applied a light twist and it disintegrated. The remnants looks sort of looked like mud.
As bad as this sounds it looks to be pretty easy to clean up and the plugs are a standard pipe plug. If one were to fail at sea I might guess you could pop the top plate off and plug it with something from the inside, once it cures you’d be back in business. With a dremel it might be possible to get the threads clean enough to get a plug in there from the inside, who knows. Goop and a quarter would be easier.
If you have your V-drive out for service, give these a good once over. I’m thinking these things rotted and that’s why I don’t have much rust in the water jacket. They don’t appear to be zincs but must have been a weaker metal than the casing.
The photo of the V-drive is minus the plugs, the other it what was left of remaining 6F.
If I’m back in the water by the end of June it will be a miracle.
Chuck
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Chuck
The plugs are used to close the holes that would have otherwise been used for the oil-cooler. Walter used hollow cast-iron plugs. They can and do rust out in a few years. It is indeed pretty easy to retap the hole, but not if you have to do it while you are in some strange port without proper tools. I suggest buying zinc plugs with the appropriate threads. Unscrew the zinc from the plug and use it instead of cast-iron. That’s what I did. Some folks recommend installing the zinc, but I don’t want a piece of zinc finding its way to the raw water pump.—
Rich Carter
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Chuck
As I remember, you need a special tool to remove the retaining nuts on the V-drive shafts. I fabricated a pair from some sockets and passed them on to someone. Unfortunately, I can’t remember who has them. You’ll have a bear of a time removing them in one piece without them and you’ll never be able to torque them back down. Even with the tools I made, torquing them is very difficult. They look like the special tools used to service locking hubs, but they are a different size.Would whoever has the tools please reply so that we can share them?
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Rich Carter
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