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Hi Gang,
So yesterday we received the results of a survey we had done on the 424 we are looking at purchasing and I’d greatly appreciate some input from everyone here.
There is a long list of things that need to be sorted fixed and replaced on her. We are at the stage now of trying to decide whether we have enough time and money to get her to a sailable state to leave N.Carolina and bring her to the BVI.
The surveyor valued her at considerably lower than she is advertised at, so we are hoping to be able to knock the price down a bit, although we are sure the owner wont accept the surveyors valuing if we offered that.
We are looking at a Beta 50 to drop into her, or possibly getting a Yanmar 4JH3E shipped up there from here in the BVI. Ive seen a few 424’s with both as repowers, what are everyones opinion on the difference between these two engines for a start?
Our main concerns are:
-Replacing engine, transmission, Walter vee drive and drive piping. This will likely require a new propshaft and propeller, motor mounts, mount shims, gauge panel, wiring, wiring harness and plumbing.-Evaluate vintage stainless steel muffler for replacement with fiberglass.
-Monitor rudder post packing gland at time of launching and adjust if needed (concern of vessel watertight integrity). Given the apparent original age of the rudder it could be needed to split the rudder open and inspect stainless steel components
-Mild steel mounting straps over the fuel tank were rusted and broken, not sure what the integrity of fuel tank itself is like?
-There were elevated moisture readings around the cockpit floor, cabintop winches, cabintop around the main mast collar, several shroud chainplates and some stanchion bases
-Osmotic blistering in wetted surface hull.
-Deteriorated hull fairing around the propshaft strut, looks to be a decent crack..
-Deteriorated plywood bulkhead at forward end of port sail locker.
-Separating fiberglass reinforcement tabbing at base of forward main salon bulkhead, port side.
-Main mast heel corroded, probably need to shorten mast and replace corroded mast step in bilge and add spacer
-Shroud and backstay chainplates need to be checked for accelerated corrosion in the areas they pass through at deck level.
-Galvanic corrosion between stainless steel fasteners and the aluminum spars. Highly loaded fittings such as the boom gooseneck, winches and line jammers should be removed and checked.
If you have any info on any of the things we’ve listed we would really appreciate your knowledge on them as its a lot to cover and think about with the few days we have before needing to make our decision on whether to go ahead with the purchase or not.
Thanks Everyone!
Josh & LucyAttachments:
NicholasPictures.pdf
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Josh and Lucy,
Not being one to shy away from a project given the right price, I hate to say this…
Run from that poor boat. The water damage alone will cost too much and take too much time for it to be worth it.
Had the rest of the boat been in good condition (and it’s not), the engine / v-drive replacement might have been a good ROI. But knowing what they’re asking, even if you paid 66% of that, you’re still at ~$30K – $40K which is 50% the price of a nice 424. And you haven’t started on other repairs.By the way, there are no drop in replacement engines. They all require a lot of reconfiguration…but the Beta 50 seems to be the easiest.
Sorry to be such a downer. I know how hard it is to WANT a boat but walk away. We did it many times.
Good luck in your hunt!Evan
Revery #219 -
I paid 15k and would have gone lower if it weren’t a family boat.
And mine had working westerbeke 71c 4 engine.
I’ve done a lot of stuff you’ve got to do – chop some off the mast, standing rig, v drive,… And have some sole rot and bulkhead work left to do.
These boats are worth putting the work into but don’t pay more than the survey just because owners don’t have a realistic idea of how much their investment plummeted.
Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"
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The 424’s are great boats but they do have their concerns that seem to plague most of them. Steel straps over the fuel tanks do cause corrosion but also most of these tanks are only 1/8″ thick aluminum. I do believe most 424 owners would agree these tanks should be replaced (mine was done and the new custom tank is 3/16″ thick aluminum) and certainly replaced if you are planning on engine replacement. If you replace the tank later, it requires engine removal!! All this being said, I’ve had my 424 for almost 26 years and love it!
Bob
Pearson 424 sloop “Folly II”, #131
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