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We are hauled for a bottom job, how does everyone zinc up. Double on the props, have none on the rudder but see some on other boats in the yard. there is a bolt without a zinc about mid hull. Any tips greatly appreciated. my zincs are all gone.
Also want to yank the paddle wheel. The grounding plate looks like crap, but what do I know, never had one before.
And for now the last bottom question, kinda, 5/16 shaft packing?
Thanks in advance.
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Here is my setup:
2 – 1-1/2″ Shaft zincs
Prop, prop strut, and bottom of the keel skeg (gudgeon ??) were cleaned,
prepped and painted with Pettit Zinc Barnacle Barrier
http://pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=226As well as the Zincs internal to the boat:
* Pencil zinc in the heat exchanger
* Large rod zinc in the Raritan water heaterWe also hang a zinc fish off the standing rigging when in the marina.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Fri, Apr 22, 2011 at 11:35 AM, Herbc wrote:
We are hauled for a bottom job, how does everyone zinc up. Double on the
props, have none on the rudder but see some on other boats in the yard.
there is a bolt without a zinc about mid hull. Any tips greatly appreciated.
my zincs are all gone.Also want to yank the paddle wheel. The grounding plate looks like crap,
but what do I know, never had one before.And for now the last bottom question, kinda, 5/16 shaft packing?
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Aloha Herb: Just did a full bottom job on our boat. We replaced old zincs with two on the shaft, following the PO’s placement.
I installed a new PSS shaft seal on our boat, replacing a first generation unit that had lived a full life. I wouldn’t go to packing as it’s more to fool with and it lets water in the boat.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Ko Olina, O’ahu -
Patrick,
I didn’t know about Pettit Zinc Barnacle Barrier. If it actually works
as a barnacle inhibitor on those bare metal parts it’d be a godsend.
Thanks for the tip.Anybody else use that stuff? Pros/cons?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Here’s what I use.
http://www.godfreyboatzincs.com/
With a brass collar, they don’t break and spin-off. They cost a little more
but last much longer. I use one for the summer season. One might last a
full year, I don’t honestly know.Rich
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First, holy crap! $61 plus shipping for a zinc? Are you kidding?
Second, the purpose of a zinc is not to last. It is to dissolve preventing
the dissolution of the other, more useful, parts of the drive train. Having
a zinc that lasts is not helpful in that regard. If your boat is not in a
harbor full of stray currents the corrosion of zincs should be minimal. If
it is, you should hang a zinc fish in addition to the shaft and engine
zincs.Frankly, it costs less to have a diver replace your zincs even here in
Connecticut than it does for one of those Godfrey ones.Generally, a set of shaft zincs should last between three and six months.
Recommended changes are twice a season in the north, and once before
winter. They should be inspected each time the boat is cleaned.I usually go through 6 zincs a year, plus three in the engine.
As an aside, clean out the zinc remnants in your heat exchanger regularly –
years of not cleaning it out will result in a rather hard-ish white gunk
(which is actually zinc oxide and other zinc compounds) filling up and
plugging the tubes. It’s easy to clean. I’ve had many customers with
overheating engines and all they needed was the tubes cleaned of the gunk –
very easy.Bob
On Fri, Apr 22, 2011 at 8:21 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Here’s what I use.
http://www.godfreyboatzincs.com/
With a brass collar, they don’t break and spin-off. They cost a little
more
but last much longer. I use one for the summer season. One might last a
full year, I don’t honestly know.Rich
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A friend with a P422 used the Petit product with good results and suggested
it to me. It didn’t work at all for me. Perhaps the difference is the
primary location but I don’t know. His boat spends a fair amount of time in
Block Island Great Salt Pond and in Stonington Harbor. both of which are
relatively deep and well flushed. My boat spends its time in a shallow pond
about three miles from the ocean inlet that gets quite warm.
Phil
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Bob
They are about 3x the price of a cheap zinc but you only need one. The Godfrey does it’s job. The brass collar holds the zinc to the shaft even when it’s getting thin. No thunk against the hull when it spins off folowed by cursing. How many have you lost? I’ve never lost one.Rich
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I’ve never lost a cheap zinc from my shaft even though I’ve let them
deteriorate pretty far a couple of times. There’s a technique to
mounting them. After you’ve tighted the bolts, you need to tap around
the zinc with a hammer to “set” it, and then tighten the bolts again. Do
this 2 or 3 times. The zincs won’t come off until they’re completely
wasted.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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From what I’ve now read about this Zinc Barnacle Barrier stuff, its
primary purpose is to act as a sacrificial anode for the metal on which
it’s applied. (That in itself strikes me as a good reason to use it.)
All it is is spray-on zinc. Therefore, the “barnacle barrier” part is a
misnomer. It doesn’t “bar” barnacles as copper would, but it might
unship them as the zinc “self-cleans under way (sic).” In other words,
as the zinc breaks down and flakes off, the barnacles lose their grip
and fall off, too. At least, that’s what I’m deducing from the following
product promo blurb:“Zinc Coat forms an excellent adhesive bond to underwater metals and
running gear and inhibits corrosion on these surfaces. Properly applied,
Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier yields a smooth, hard surface that
self-cleans under way.”I vote to rename that product “Zinc Barnacle Ejector.” Maybe moving the
boat once in a while enhances the barnacle-ejection effect, but I’m
guessing.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Rich,
I was going to say what Tor said, but he got to it first. I’ve never had
one spin off and neither have my customers. Of the reasonably priced zincs,
Camp makes the best with Martyr a distant second. But I’ve never even seen
(or heard) a Martyr spin off.Bob
On Fri, Apr 22, 2011 at 9:58 PM, wrote:
Quote:Bob
They are about 3x the price of a cheap zinc but you only need one. The
Godfrey does it’s job. The brass collar holds the zinc to the shaft even
when it’s getting thin. No thunk against the hull when it spins off
folowed by cursing. How many have you lost? I’ve never lost one.Rich
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Just was in WM on another mission and checked out the Zinc stuff
($22/can). When they say it is highly flammable they aren’t kidding.
The solvent release for this stuff appears to be propane and butane.
Maybe it will burn in the gas grill.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Apr 23, 2011 at 8:15 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:From what I’ve now read about this Zinc Barnacle Barrier stuff, its
primary purpose is to act as a sacrificial anode for the metal on which
it’s applied. (That in itself strikes me as a good reason to use it.)
All it is is spray-on zinc. Therefore, the “barnacle barrier” part is a
misnomer. It doesn’t “bar” barnacles as copper would, but it might
unship them as the zinc “self-cleans under way (sic).” In other words,
as the zinc breaks down and flakes off, the barnacles lose their grip
and fall off, too. At least, that’s what I’m deducing from the following
product promo blurb:“Zinc Coat forms an excellent adhesive bond to underwater metals and
running gear and inhibits corrosion on these surfaces. Properly applied,
Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier yields a smooth, hard surface that
self-cleans under way.”I vote to rename that product “Zinc Barnacle Ejector.” Maybe moving the
boat once in a while enhances the barnacle-ejection effect, but I’m
guessing.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I think John is on to something. I looked at several spray paint cans in the garage and they all have flammable propellant.
Then I looked at the “freon” horn that I store on the boat. Also flammable propellant. It appears that propane has replaced CFC’s as propellant in spray paint and horns. All that trouble to put in a safe and legal propane system, and the USCG approved horn sitting on the nav station shelf has enough propane in its rusty can to blow up the boat.
Quent -
” the USCG approved horn sitting on the nav station shelf has enough propane in its rusty can to blow up the boat.
Quent”The can of Pam in the galley also uses propane and butane as propellants.
Paul
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Guys at the yard, where I acquire my half-used cans (they seem to “buy a
can” for every boat then leave them around) call it Barnacle Ban, that might
have been it’s former name.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Apr 23, 2011 at 5:15 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:From what I’ve now read about this Zinc Barnacle Barrier stuff, its
primary purpose is to act as a sacrificial anode for the metal on which
it’s applied. (That in itself strikes me as a good reason to use it.)
All it is is spray-on zinc. Therefore, the “barnacle barrier” part is a
misnomer. It doesn’t “bar” barnacles as copper would, but it might
unship them as the zinc “self-cleans under way (sic).” In other words,
as the zinc breaks down and flakes off, the barnacles lose their grip
and fall off, too. At least, that’s what I’m deducing from the following
product promo blurb:“Zinc Coat forms an excellent adhesive bond to underwater metals and
running gear and inhibits corrosion on these surfaces. Properly applied,
Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier yields a smooth, hard surface that
self-cleans under way.”I vote to rename that product “Zinc Barnacle Ejector.” Maybe moving the
boat once in a while enhances the barnacle-ejection effect, but I’m
guessing.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Pam uses Propane as a propellant? Yikes!
Actually I wasn’t aware either Propane or Butane are propellants.
They are liquids, how do they provide propellant? I think they are in
the zinc spray to provide a solvent for the zinc, which evaporates
after application. I assume the propellant for the zinc spray is just
air (or another gas) under pressure.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Apr 23, 2011 at 4:17 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
wrote:Quote:Guys at the yard, where I acquire my half-used cans (they seem to “buy a
can” for every boat then leave them around) call it Barnacle Ban, that might
have been it’s former name.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, AprP 23, 2011 at 5:15 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:From what I’ve now read about this Zinc Barnacle Barrier stuff, its
primary purpose is to act as a sacrificial anode for the metal on which
it’s applied. (That in itself strikes me as a good reason to use it.)
All it is is spray-on zinc. Therefore, the “barnacle barrier” part is a
misnomer. It doesn’t “bar” barnacles as copper would, but it might
unship them as the zinc “self-cleans under way (sic).” In other words,
as the zinc breaks down and flakes off, the barnacles lose their grip
and fall off, too. At least, that’s what I’m deducing from the following
product promo blurb:“Zinc Coat forms an excellent adhesive bond to underwater metals and
running gear and inhibits corrosion on these surfaces. Properly applied,
Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier yields a smooth, hard surface that
self-cleans under way.”I vote to rename that product “Zinc Barnacle Ejector.” Maybe moving the
boat once in a while enhances the barnacle-ejection effect, but I’m
guessing.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Propane and butane both have very low vapor pressure making it a good
propellant.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 23, 2011 6:21 PM, “John Stevenson” wrote:
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Aaah, now I remember – Propane is a liquid only under pressure.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Apr 23, 2011 at 8:22 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Propane and butane both have very low vapor pressure making it a good
propellant.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 23, 2011 6:21 PM, “John Stevenson” wrote:
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At the recommendation of the guys at our marina, who deal with some very
large motor vessels, I replaced my traditional stuffing box with the
SureSeal system from TidesMarine three seasons ago.
Easy Install. No regrets. No problems.It is a little more expensive than PSS but I believe it is more robust.
Additionally, if the seal does go bad, you can replace it without hauling
out (requires installing a spare seal on the shaft).
Evan Starzinger gave it his highest rating for reliable equipment.http://www.tidesmarine.com/shaft-seals.html
On Sat, Apr 23, 2011 at 12:16 AM, Herbc wrote:
Thanks to everybody, great info. Starting to lean towards dripless shaft
seal, a dryer bilge would be a good thing._______________________________________________
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The system is very good, but you need to remove the shaft to put it in.
Spring for two extra seals.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 24, 2011 9:31 PM, “Rick Dugger” wrote:At the recommendation of the guys at our marina, who deal with some very
large motor vessels, I replaced my traditional stuffing box with the
SureSeal system from TidesMarine three seasons ago.
Easy Install. No regrets. No problems.It is a little more expensive than PSS but I believe it is more robust.
Additionally, if the seal does go bad, you can replace it without hauling
out (requires installing a spare seal on the shaft).
Evan Starzinger gave it his highest rating for reliable equipment.http://www.tidesmarine.com/shaft-seals.html
On Sat, Apr 23, 2011 at 12:16 AM, Herbc wrote:
Thanks to everybody, great info. Starting to lean towards dripless shaft
seal, a dryer bilge would be a good thing._______________________________________________
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