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I had split tanks installed with a gap in the middle of about 6 inches.So 2
identical twin tanks identical to original but width cut down to allow
installation..Total capacity for fuel now 50 gals [approx].With tanks this size
they were installed thru the cockpit port locker.Made by the same manufacturer
as the original tank.Would have preferred more fuel capacity.Installed by
Deaton’s in Oriental.The original tank was removed in pcs using a sawzaw
and about 4 hours.Wood cradle left intact.In fact,was diesel saturated but after
3 days dried out and strong as ever.It may be possible to close the 6 inch gap
and utilize more of the cradle cubic ft.2 flow valves switch from Port to
Starboard tank for flow to the engine and return,2 separate filler hoses and
deck caps.An electronic fuel and can switched to monitor either tank.Hope this
helps.________________________________
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Joe Shimkonis
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Just a thought before you go though all the hassles of changing to split tanks and a lower fuel capacity. If you plan on any offshore passages, cutting down the fuel capacity could be a mistake. On a recent passage from Bermuda to St. Maarten – I had 80 gallons in the tank and 30 gallons on deck and used every bit of it. Unless you want to wallow around for 5 days waiting for wind in the middle of no where.
The engine comes out pretty easy. Working by myself (except for the actual lift – done by the yard) I had the engine ready for removal in less than 4 hours. 30 minutes of work for the yard crew to lift it out.
It may be easier and cheaper in the long run to remove the engine and replace the tank to it’s original location and size.
Besides, if your engine has not been out of there in a long time (forever) – there are a few hoses that should be replaced that would be much easier to get at once you can walk around it. I would suspect that if the tank is leaking – there are probably maintenance items on the engine that need to be attended to also.
Just a thought
alan
#140— On Tue, 4/26/11, joe shimkonis wrote:
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95 gallons under the sole in glassed-in tank.
Pete
On 4/26/2011 2:26 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Just a thought before you go though all the hassles of changing to split tanks and a lower fuel capacity. If you plan on any offshore passages, cutting down the fuel capacity could be a mistake. On a recent passage from Bermuda to St. Maarten – I had 80 gallons in the tank and 30 gallons on deck and used every bit of it. Unless you want to wallow around for 5 days waiting for wind in the middle of no where.The engine comes out pretty easy. Working by myself (except for the actual lift – done by the yard) I had the engine ready for removal in less than 4 hours. 30 minutes of work for the yard crew to lift it out.
It may be easier and cheaper in the long run to remove the engine and replace the tank to it’s original location and size.
Besides, if your engine has not been out of there in a long time (forever) – there are a few hoses that should be replaced that would be much easier to get at once you can walk around it. I would suspect that if the tank is leaking – there are probably maintenance items on the engine that need to be attended to also.
Just a thought
alan
#140— On Tue, 4/26/11, joe shimkonis wrote:
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I assume that you plan to put them in the original space. Why split tanks?
You have to play games with the return line to make sure you don’t return
fuel to the wrong tank unless you add a day-tank. This is a small third
tank that feeds the engine and gets the return line.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
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Or I guess you could just tie the two half tanks together and let them
find their own level.Pete
On 4/26/2011 7:05 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:I assume that you plan to put them in the original space. Why split tanks?
You have to play games with the return line to make sure you don’t return
fuel to the wrong tank unless you add a day-tank. This is a small third
tank that feeds the engine and gets the return line.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
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Ok got it, unwilling to give up gallons so out comes the engine. Guess I knew the answer after measure of the lazzerette opening. Tank not leaking, but do not want to be remote when it does, 31 years on a tank is prob enough. Coastline here in Bellingham gave a fair price for 2 tanks so one should be better.
That tank under the sole is great but can’t make it happen right now.The bladder question is a good one and can probably be worked out.
Thanks Joe for the speedy reply.
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I had my tank inspected and it looked fine inside… might want to do that
before you go all in on the tank.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 8:22 PM, Herbc wrote:
Ok got it, unwilling to give up gallons so out comes the engine. Guess I
knew the answer after measure of the lazzerette opening. Tank not leaking,
but do not want to be remote when it does, 31 years on a tank is prob
enough. Coastline here in Bellingham gave a fair price for 2 tanks so one
should be better.
That tank under the sole is great but can’t make it happen right now.The bladder question is a good one and can probably be worked out.
Thanks Joe for the speedy reply.
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Some additional thoughts on fuel tanks:
First, put a magnet on it to find out if the tank is aluminum or steel. If it is aluminum, it is probably intact or repairable. Our tank had pitting corrosion from the inside several of which penetrated the tank bottom as pinhole size leaks. The top and sides were good as new. We repaired our tank with West system epoxy and fiberglass, which is permitted under ABYC guidelines on non-ferrous fuel tanks.
After you remove, or move the engine forward several feet, the tank may or may not fit through the space. We had to remove some of the tank support structure to fit under the mizzen mast support beam which is there even if you have the sloop model. The tank just barely fit through the companionway.
We also added a couple saddle tanks outboard in the cockpit lockers for extra fuel capacity.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132 -
Can you provide info on the saddle tanks?
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 27, 2011, at 7:48 AM, “quent” wrote:
Some additional thoughts on fuel tanks:
First, put a magnet on it to find out if the tank is aluminum or steel. If it is aluminum, it is probably intact or repairable. Our tank had pitting corrosion from the inside several of which penetrated the tank bottom as pinhole size leaks. The top and sides were good as new. We repaired our tank with West system epoxy and fiberglass, which is permitted under ABYC guidelines on non-ferrous fuel tanks.
After you remove, or move the engine forward several feet, the tank may or may not fit through the space. We had to remove some of the tank support structure to fit under the mizzen mast support beam which is there even if you have the sloop model. The tank just barely fit through the companionway.
We also added a couple saddle tanks outboard in the cockpit lockers for extra fuel capacity.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132_______________________________________________
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Joe Shimkonis
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The original tank manufacturer is still in business and can build you a replacement. Lots of info available from the mailing list. Here’s my notes.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/FuelTank.html
Rich
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Quent,
Please tell us more about the saddle tanks. I’d like to increase my tankage and
the saddle tanks sound like it might be the ticket.lee
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Re saddle tanks, pretty standard stuff, from West Marine. 17 gallons, I think, so that adds about 34 gallons to capacity. Kind of wedge shaped, wider at top, rectangular profile, grey plastic. For a bit more money you can find similar in aluminum. They are port and starbord tanks that are mirror images. Muonted them against hull just aft of genoa winches with fills straight up. Tanks sit on plywood shelves glassed to the hull. They don’t really take up any space we were using, and don’t seem to affect trim. Had to add fuel return line in stb tank since it fuels the DC genset.
I plumbed each tank to the fuel cleaner system so that the pump pulls fuel from a saddle tank then through a big Racor filter and dumps it in main tank.
Only problem has been the fuel guage senders. One is defective and I haven’t figured out how to replace it without removing the tank from it’s shelf.
Quent -
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