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Posts
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I was spending some time reading older posts here on the forum and in March of 2008 there was a discussion of the sea chest and raw water manifolds etc. I’m curious as to exactly what the sea chest was and where it was located in the original construction. Is it a sort of “well” that stays full of raw water to be distributed? I know the boat I’m buying has a manifold (not sure of size or volume yet) and a dedicated Groco ss strainer along with outer hull strainer also. The engine and V-drive cooling has it’s own strainer.
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Ken,
Yes, a sea chest or seawater intake manifold is a container with its own
intake thru-hull, from which seawater is distributed to various devices that
use it – toilet, galley sink foot pump, watermaker, deckwash pump… even a
bilge washdown hose if you want one. To my knowledge, Pearson did not build
in sea chests, but could have by special order. Very few builders do that. I
don’t know why; it’s a smart idea. Be thankful your boat already has one,
with its own Groco strainer and thru-hull screen, as it should. I had to
design and build Silverheels’ seawater intake manifold from scratch (photos
attached), but am delighted with the results. And I agree that the engine
should have its own separate intake and strainer.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Thanks Tor, what was throwing me off reading the old posts was I think you mentioning a fiberglass cover and someone else thought the wall thickness of this “sea chest” would bulge and weaken. Something like that. Made me think of a box of some sort.
It’s driving me crazy here being an 8 hr drive from the new boat that’s not even really mine yet. Between this forum and the owners detailed e-mails I hope to have no mysteries when I do move aboard…ya right!!!!
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AFAIK, neither a sea chest nor a manifold were original equipment on the
424s. If there is one on the 424 you are buying it was likely put in by a
PO.
A sea chest and a manifold serve the same basic purpose – provide sea water
distribution to multiple systems from a single thru-hull. The sea chest is
a tank of a gallon or more capacity that handles surge loads, when more
than one system is drawing water at the same time. This allows the sea
chest to be served by a thru-hull of less total capacity than the sum of
the attached systems. That assumes at least one of the loads is not
continuous (e.g.,, toilet flush, galley sea water pump, etc.). With a
manifold the thru hull must be able to provide the maximum possible demand
from all systems otherwise one of the system may be starved and not receive
its full demand.
Here is a description of the manifolds I put into Sarah 10 years ago:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgrade2003Haulout.htm.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 5:04 AM, Page Two wrote:
I was spending some time reading older posts here on the forum and in
March of 2008 there was a discussion of the sea chest and raw water
manifolds etc. I’m curious as to exactly what the sea chest was and where
it was located in the original construction. Is it a sort of “well” that
stays full of raw water to be distributed? I know the boat I’m buying has a
manifold (not sure of size or volume yet) and a dedicated Groco ss strainer
along with outer hull strainer also. The engine and V-drive cooling has
it’s own strainer.
Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
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Tor, good morning. I read this post about sea chests. I don’t have one and like the other Pearson owners my seawater sink foot pump and the heads all have separate intakes. I am not arguing I just want to understand. Why is a Seachest better?
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 21, 2013, at 8:50 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Ken,Yes, a sea chest or seawater intake manifold is a container with its own
intake thru-hull, from which seawater is distributed to various devices that
use it – toilet, galley sink foot pump, watermaker, deckwash pump… even a
bilge washdown hose if you want one. To my knowledge, Pearson did not build
in sea chests, but could have by special order. Very few builders do that. I
don’t know why; it’s a smart idea. Be thankful your boat already has one,
with its own Groco strainer and thru-hull screen, as it should. I had to
design and build Silverheels’ seawater intake manifold from scratch (photos
attached), but am delighted with the results. And I agree that the engine
should have its own separate intake and strainer.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hi Everyone,
So I’m a new P424 owner. I’ve actually owned one before and been a part of the maillist, but since selling our last 424, I’ve mostly been a “list stalker”. You’ll probably get a lot of questions from me in the coming months as I try to figure out this new boat and all the systems.
I’m currently prepping to deliver the boat from the present location (Anacortes, WA) to Seattle. Hopefully it will be an easy 2-day trip, but of course, I’m overwhelmed with pre-travel work, new boat-owner anxiety and uncertainty with some of the PO’s systems.
Today, I actually have a couple easy questions for the group (or hopefully easy). Can anyone provide some information regarding the “fuel gauge arrow” (on the old original tank-mounted gauge you look at through the cockpit sole). Which way should it point, if the tank is full? If it’s empty? The glass is so foggy that I can see the needle, but I can’t make out any other markings (ie. F or E). The broker says he knows, but I’m alittle less than confident with his answer.
Another fuel question: do you think I require fuel polishing if the diesel has been sitting for 8 months? Again, the broker thinks it’s fine. The Racor looks very clear at this point (from running during sea trail), but once that tank sloshes around, who knows. I’d love some feedback. The last thing I want is a clogged filter/failing engine while transiting Deception Pass.
It’s a drop-in Racor (I’ve never had this before). If I had to replace it, can I accomplish it underway? Can I replace it without bleeding the lines (ie. putting new element in and topping up the filter canister with diesel)?Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
P
Paul
Talisman, Seattle WA
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Paul,
I can’t provide any advise on the tank gauge. I replaced my tank and guage
several years ago, and the gauge orientation on my boat is likely different
than yours. Actually, I would guess the gauge orientation varies from 424
to 424, even those with the original tank.
IMO eight months is not really that long for fuel to sit, although your
boat has been sitting in a rain forest. Fuel polishing is not a bad idea,
but the Racor filters can be replaced underway without problems. Just keep
a small jug of diesel fuel handy to re-fill the filter bowl after changing
the filter to avoid having to bleed the fuel lines. Take a lot of spare
filter cartridges with you.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 9:45 AM, Paul Audi wrote:
Hi Everyone,
So I’m a new P424 owner. I’ve actually owned one before and been a part of
the maillist, but since selling our last 424, I’ve mostly been a “list
stalker”. You’ll probably get a lot of questions from me in the coming
months as I try to figure out this new boat and all the systems.I’m currently prepping to deliver the boat from the present location
(Anacortes, WA) to Seattle. Hopefully it will be an easy 2-day trip, but of
course, I’m overwhelmed with pre-travel work, new boat-owner anxiety and
uncertainty with some of the PO’s systems.Today, I actually have a couple easy questions for the group (or hopefully
easy). Can anyone provide some information regarding the “fuel gauge arrow”
(on the old original tank-mounted gauge you look at through the cockpit
sole). Which way should it point, if the tank is full? If it’s empty? The
glass is so foggy that I can see the needle, but I can’t make out any other
markings (ie. F or E). The broker says he knows, but I’m alittle less than
confident with his answer.Another fuel question: do you think I require fuel polishing if the diesel
has been sitting for 8 months? Again, the broker thinks it’s fine. The
Racor looks very clear at this point (from running during sea trail), but
once that tank sloshes around, who knows. I’d love some feedback. The last
thing I want is a clogged filter/failing engine while transiting Deception
Pass.It’s a drop-in Racor (I’ve never had this before). If I had to replace it,
can I accomplish it underway? Can I replace it without bleeding the lines
(ie. putting new element in and topping up the filter canister with
diesel)?Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
P
Paul
Talisman, Seattle WA
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I’ve never looked at my fuel tank gauge. I strictly go on engine hours. Fill up the tank, calculate 1 gallon for every hour of engine. You’ll probably only use about .8 gallons per engine hour, so that gives you a good 20% safety factor. Unless of course you run it wide-open throttle.
Alan
UnabatedSent from my iPhone
On Jul 21, 2013, at 10:06 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
Paul,
I can’t provide any advise on the tank gauge. I replaced my tank and guage
several years ago, and the gauge orientation on my boat is likely different
than yours. Actually, I would guess the gauge orientation varies from 424
to 424, even those with the original tank.
IMO eight months is not really that long for fuel to sit, although your
boat has been sitting in a rain forest. Fuel polishing is not a bad idea,
but the Racor filters can be replaced underway without problems. Just keep
a small jug of diesel fuel handy to re-fill the filter bowl after changing
the filter to avoid having to bleed the fuel lines. Take a lot of spare
filter cartridges with you.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 9:45 AM, Paul Audi wrote:
Hi Everyone,
So I’m a new P424 owner. I’ve actually owned one before and been a part of
the maillist, but since selling our last 424, I’ve mostly been a “list
stalker”. You’ll probably get a lot of questions from me in the coming
months as I try to figure out this new boat and all the systems.I’m currently prepping to deliver the boat from the present location
(Anacortes, WA) to Seattle. Hopefully it will be an easy 2-day trip, but of
course, I’m overwhelmed with pre-travel work, new boat-owner anxiety and
uncertainty with some of the PO’s systems.Today, I actually have a couple easy questions for the group (or hopefully
easy). Can anyone provide some information regarding the “fuel gauge arrow”
(on the old original tank-mounted gauge you look at through the cockpit
sole). Which way should it point, if the tank is full? If it’s empty? The
glass is so foggy that I can see the needle, but I can’t make out any other
markings (ie. F or E). The broker says he knows, but I’m alittle less than
confident with his answer.Another fuel question: do you think I require fuel polishing if the diesel
has been sitting for 8 months? Again, the broker thinks it’s fine. The
Racor looks very clear at this point (from running during sea trail), but
once that tank sloshes around, who knows. I’d love some feedback. The last
thing I want is a clogged filter/failing engine while transiting Deception
Pass.It’s a drop-in Racor (I’ve never had this before). If I had to replace it,
can I accomplish it underway? Can I replace it without bleeding the lines
(ie. putting new element in and topping up the filter canister with
diesel)?Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
P
Paul
Talisman, Seattle WA
_______________________________________________
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Paul,
Here’s a simple, if pricey, addition you can make to your Racor to detect
filter clogging before it shuts down your engine:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpradeMechanical.htm#Fuel_Filter_Guage
This is a vacuum gauge that replaces the T screw that secures the cover.
You can check this periodically underway and change the filter when it
starts to show a problem. I have one, but I must confess it has never
shown a clogged condition as I change my filters on a regular basis.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 10:13 AM, Alan wrote:
I’ve never looked at my fuel tank gauge. I strictly go on engine hours.
Fill up the tank, calculate 1 gallon for every hour of engine. You’ll
probably only use about .8 gallons per engine hour, so that gives you a
good 20% safety factor. Unless of course you run it wide-open throttle.
Alan
UnabatedSent from my iPhone
On Jul 21, 2013, at 10:06 AM, John Stevenson
wrote:Paul,
I can’t provide any advise on the tank gauge. I replaced my tank andguage
several years ago, and the gauge orientation on my boat is likely
different
than yours. Actually, I would guess the gauge orientation varies from
424
to 424, even those with the original tank.
IMO eight months is not really that long for fuel to sit, although your
boat has been sitting in a rain forest. Fuel polishing is not a badidea,
but the Racor filters can be replaced underway without problems. Just
keep
a small jug of diesel fuel handy to re-fill the filter bowl after
changing
the filter to avoid having to bleed the fuel lines. Take a lot of spare
filter cartridges with you.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 9:45 AM, Paul Audi wrote:
Hi Everyone,
So I’m a new P424 owner. I’ve actually owned one before and been a part
of
the maillist, but since selling our last 424, I’ve mostly been a “list
stalker”. You’ll probably get a lot of questions from me in the coming
months as I try to figure out this new boat and all the systems.I’m currently prepping to deliver the boat from the present location
(Anacortes, WA) to Seattle. Hopefully it will be an easy 2-day trip,but of
course, I’m overwhelmed with pre-travel work, new boat-owner anxiety and
uncertainty with some of the PO’s systems.Today, I actually have a couple easy questions for the group (or
hopefully
easy). Can anyone provide some information regarding the “fuel gauge
arrow”
(on the old original tank-mounted gauge you look at through the cockpit
sole). Which way should it point, if the tank is full? If it’s empty?The
glass is so foggy that I can see the needle, but I can’t make out any
other
markings (ie. F or E). The broker says he knows, but I’m alittle less
than
confident with his answer.
Another fuel question: do you think I require fuel polishing if the
diesel
has been sitting for 8 months? Again, the broker thinks it’s fine. The
Racor looks very clear at this point (from running during sea trail),but
once that tank sloshes around, who knows. I’d love some feedback. The
last
thing I want is a clogged filter/failing engine while transiting
Deception
Pass.
It’s a drop-in Racor (I’ve never had this before). If I had to replace
it,
can I accomplish it underway? Can I replace it without bleeding the
lines
(ie. putting new element in and topping up the filter canister with
diesel)?Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
P
Paul
Talisman, Seattle WA
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Thanks John, I couldn’t open your link but I think I get it. There was mentioning back in the original discussion about using 6″ PVC pipe and that would certainly have the volume to protect from the surge load. The present owner of my future boat is an engineer and has gone through the boat over the last 14 years, It was my #1 reason to even buy a boat with so many systems. I’ve been very KISS in my past. Not sure why he located it back under the port berth next to the engine, seems distant, but I have faith it’s done properly.
Thanks again,
Ken@john stevenson wrote:
AFAIK, neither a sea chest nor a manifold were original equipment on the
424s. If there is one on the 424 you are buying it was likely put in by a
PO.
A sea chest and a manifold serve the same basic purpose – provide sea water
distribution to multiple systems from a single thru-hull. The sea chest is
a tank of a gallon or more capacity that handles surge loads, when more
than one system is drawing water at the same time. This allows the sea
chest to be served by a thru-hull of less total capacity than the sum of
the attached systems. That assumes at least one of the loads is not
continuous (e.g.,, toilet flush, galley sea water pump, etc.). With a
manifold the thru hull must be able to provide the maximum possible demand
from all systems otherwise one of the system may be starved and not receive
its full demand.
Here is a description of the manifolds I put into Sarah 10 years ago:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgrade2003Haulout.htm.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Hi Paul,
Welcome back! Ok, for the fuel gauge: You can purchase a replacement puck
that fits in the top of the unit. All the whole unit is is a twisted piece
of metal with a float that rides up it. At the top is a magnet. This is
all sealed in the tank. At the top there is a little depression that this
readout device sits in. I replaced mine a few years ago and I think the
new one was like $15.00. I went to an auto parts store to get it.Next, you can change the racor underway but with the engine stopped. You
have an electric fuel pump on your engine I hope so it’s self priming. If
you don’t, then as John said have some fuel ready to top off the filter.
Also, bring some secondary filters (on the engine).Polishing the fuel can’t hurt and if there’s a relatively cheap way to get
it done it may be worth it. If not, just be prepared to change filters
underway. Lots of filters are cheaper than polishing services.Bob
On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 10:24 AM, John Stevenson
wrote:Paul,
Here’s a simple, if pricey, addition you can make to your Racor to detect
filter clogging before it shuts down your engine:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpradeMechanical.htm#Fuel_Filter_Guage
This is a vacuum gauge that replaces the T screw that secures the cover.
You can check this periodically underway and change the filter when it
starts to show a problem. I have one, but I must confess it has never
shown a clogged condition as I change my filters on a regular basis.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 10:13 AM, Alan wrote:
I’ve never looked at my fuel tank gauge. I strictly go on engine hours.
Fill up the tank, calculate 1 gallon for every hour of engine. You’ll
probably only use about .8 gallons per engine hour, so that gives you a
good 20% safety factor. Unless of course you run it wide-open throttle.
Alan
UnabatedSent from my iPhone
On Jul 21, 2013, at 10:06 AM, John Stevenson
wrote:Paul,
I can’t provide any advise on the tank gauge. I replaced my tank andguage
several years ago, and the gauge orientation on my boat is likely
different
than yours. Actually, I would guess the gauge orientation varies from
424
to 424, even those with the original tank.
IMO eight months is not really that long for fuel to sit, although your
boat has been sitting in a rain forest. Fuel polishing is not a badidea,
but the Racor filters can be replaced underway without problems. Just
keep
a small jug of diesel fuel handy to re-fill the filter bowl after
changing
the filter to avoid having to bleed the fuel lines. Take a lot of
spare
filter cartridges with you.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 9:45 AM, Paul Audi wrote:
Hi Everyone,
So I’m a new P424 owner. I’ve actually owned one before and been a
part
of
the maillist, but since selling our last 424, I’ve mostly been a “list
stalker”. You’ll probably get a lot of questions from me in the coming
months as I try to figure out this new boat and all the systems.I’m currently prepping to deliver the boat from the present location
(Anacortes, WA) to Seattle. Hopefully it will be an easy 2-day trip,but of
course, I’m overwhelmed with pre-travel work, new boat-owner anxiety
and
uncertainty with some of the PO’s systems.
Today, I actually have a couple easy questions for the group (or
hopefully
easy). Can anyone provide some information regarding the “fuel gauge
arrow”
(on the old original tank-mounted gauge you look at through the
cockpit
sole). Which way should it point, if the tank is full? If it’s empty?
The
glass is so foggy that I can see the needle, but I can’t make out any
other
markings (ie. F or E). The broker says he knows, but I’m alittle less
than
confident with his answer.
Another fuel question: do you think I require fuel polishing if the
diesel
has been sitting for 8 months? Again, the broker thinks it’s fine. The
Racor looks very clear at this point (from running during sea trail),but
once that tank sloshes around, who knows. I’d love some feedback. The
last
thing I want is a clogged filter/failing engine while transiting
Deception
Pass.
It’s a drop-in Racor (I’ve never had this before). If I had to replace
it,
can I accomplish it underway? Can I replace it without bleeding the
lines
(ie. putting new element in and topping up the filter canister with
diesel)?Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
P
Paul
Talisman, Seattle WA
_______________________________________________
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Ok. Here it is: A sea chest is either open directly to the sea or an box
of significant size that is connected to the sea through a through hull
valve in such a manner that it will fill and stay filled whenever the
vessel is in the water and the valve, if installed, is open. A sea chest
and manifold serve the same purpose: minimizing through hulls.There are far too many through hulls in the 424. Almost all of them are
low flow systems, such as the head, water maker, deck washdown (at a few
gallons a minute), and foot pump, so a 5/8″ through hull is fine for that
even if all the systems are running. The one under the galley sink is fine
for that. If you were running air conditioning and/or water cooled
refrigeration you’d need a larger through hull.Ok, the box we were talking about way back when was the shower sump box
that was mounted in the bilge just forward of the v-drive. Frankly it was
useless and most owners removed it in favor of a direct overboard pump.
The idea proposed was using that for a sea chest and was rejected because
the walls were considered too thin to withstand the direct sea pressure
(they probably aren’t but would you trust your vessel to ‘probably’?)Anyway, most of us have solved the problem with a manifold like Tor’s or
John’s. Others have just let things be the way they are.I plan on hauling my boat later this summer and removing at least 7 though
hulls. 4 deck drains, 1 sink drain in the v-berth (where I also plan on
removing the non used sink), moving the bilge pump discharges from the side
of the boat to the transom and teeing the shower sump to the galley sink
drain removing the through hull for that. If I could remove more I would.The deck drains will elbow out to the hull just below the cove stripe. I
know there will be black marks. Better that than failed underwater valves.Bob
On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 10:28 AM, Page Two wrote:
Thanks John, I couldn’t open your link but I think I get it. There was
mentioning back in the original discussion about using 6″ PVC pipe and that
would certainly have the volume to protect from the surge load. The
present owner of my future boat is an engineer and has gone through the
boat over the last 14 years, It was my #1 reason to even buy a boat with so
many systems. I’ve been very KISS in my past. Not sure why he located it
back under the port berth next to the engine, seems distant, but I have
faith it’s done properly.
Thanks again,
Kenjohn stevenson wrote:
AFAIK, neither a sea chest nor a manifold were original equipment on the
424s. If there is one on the 424 you are buying it was likely put in bya
PO.
A sea chest and a manifold serve the same basic purpose – provide seawater
distribution to multiple systems from a single thru-hull. The sea chest
is
a tank of a gallon or more capacity that handles surge loads, when more
than one system is drawing water at the same time. This allows the sea
chest to be served by a thru-hull of less total capacity than the sum of
the attached systems. That assumes at least one of the loads is not
continuous (e.g.,, toilet flush, galley sea water pump, etc.). With a
manifold the thru hull must be able to provide the maximum possibledemand
from all systems otherwise one of the system may be starved and not
receive
its full demand.
Here is a description of the manifolds I put into Sarah 10 years ago:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgrade2003Haulout.htm.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
[/quote]
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi All,
More questions from the noob. I apologize in advance for my likely silly questions.
So my previous 424 had 50 amp shore power hook up. The new one looks like it does too (based on the input in the cockpit). But the plug on the cord looks like a 30 amp (male side; it’s even plugged into the shore outlet that is marked 30 amp). Is it possible that someone has created a hybrid cord? Is this bad?
Also, I’m struggling to understand the nature of 50amp/125v versus 50amp 125/250v. Not sure which is appropriate for the P424 (though I believe it’s 50amp/125v). I’m very NON-technical, so a long electrical discussion won’t help me. Mostly, I’d just like to understand what others are using on their 424s to get shore power to their systems. Ideally, I’d like to do this as cost-effectively as possible.
Could it be as simple as a pigtail adaptor at the boat input and then using a standard 30amp cord for connectivity to 30amp show power?
Thank you,
Paul
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Thatcher,
John just explained perfectly the difference between a sea chest and a
seawater manifold. Since Silverheels has no big raw water consumers besides
the engine, which has its own, dedicated thru-hull and strainer, I didn’t
really need a sea chest. The manifold easily services this boat’s needs.Why having a sea chest or seawater intake manifold is better than not having
one is because they enable you to have many less holes in the bottom of your
boat, less thru-hulls. When I got Silverheels she had some absurd number of
thru-hulls. Pearson just stuck them in anywhere and everywhere for each and
every thing that needed to drain overboard. It was like Swiss cheese. Making
an intake manifold was part of my overall campaign to reduce the number of
these holes in the boat. Ultimately I halved the holes, from the original 18
to 9 now. I feel that’s an improvement.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Ken,
The manifold I just showed you was the final design after 2 failures. The
first was an attempt to convert the original shower sump box that Pearson
made, into a sea chest. That’s what you read about. I had the devil of a
time getting the lid watertight and also had concerns about air bubbles. The
manifold I ultimately came up with was simpler and more functional. It has
worked without a hitch ever since.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hi Paul,
Welcome back to the Romper Room.
My 424 had been sitting on the hard for unknown months when I bought her.
One of the very first things I did, just before (mostly) motoring her 300
miles up the ICW to another boat yard, was to remove and replace that foggy
portlight in the cockpit sole so I could see through it, and pull the
30-year-old fuel sight gauge and replace it with a new one, readily
available from any marine store for $10 or $15. While those things were out,
I secured a hose to a long stick with wire ties, gently lowered the end
through the sight gauge hole to the tank’s deepest point, which is at the
forward end of the tank, and used a hand pump to suck out about a gallon or
so of fuel from there. To my delight it came up clean and free of water, so
I figured (correctly, as it turned out) that it was safe to use. If it had
come up ugly, I would probably have pumped out more until it showed clear,
or if it looked too far gone, arranged for polishing.Of course, I had the advantage of a boat on the hard for a long time. Any
water and most dirt in the fuel tank would long ago have settled to the
deepest part of the tank. But even if your boat has been sitting in a calm
slip for a week, I believe you’d find most if not all of the gunk settled to
the bottom.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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It is as simple as a pigtail for 50A/125V boat end to 30A shore power cord
if you have a 30A pedestal.
On Jul 21, 2013 10:55 AM, “Paul Audi” wrote:Hi All,
More questions from the noob. I apologize in advance for my likely silly
questions.So my previous 424 had 50 amp shore power hook up. The new one looks like
it does too (based on the input in the cockpit). But the plug on the cord
looks like a 30 amp (male side; it’s even plugged into the shore outlet
that is marked 30 amp). Is it possible that someone has created a hybrid
cord? Is this bad?Also, I’m struggling to understand the nature of 50amp/125v versus 50amp
125/250v. Not sure which is appropriate for the P424 (though I believe it’s
50amp/125v). I’m very NON-technical, so a long electrical discussion won’t
help me. Mostly, I’d just like to understand what others are using on their
424s to get shore power to their systems. Ideally, I’d like to do this as
cost-effectively as possible.Could it be as simple as a pigtail adaptor at the boat input and then
using a standard 30amp cord for connectivity to 30amp show power?Thank you,
Paul
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Paul,
I think most of the 424s were delivered with a 50A main breaker on the
electrical panel, but I’m not sure what type of deck receptacle was
originally installed. My boat has a 30A receptacle, but I think that was
installed by the PO. So I use a 30A cord for dockside hookup. I have a
50A adapter when tied to docks that do not provide 30A service (many on the
AICW). Sounds like the cord on your boat was made up to allow for the
opposite condition – only 30A service on the dock. If the marina does not
meter the electrical service at each slip, they normally charge a fixed
rate for the service. If you are hooked to a 50A dock receptacle that
fixed charge may be twice that if you are hooked to a 30A receptacle. One
other reason the PO may have made up that cord.
Unless your boat has been re-wired to accept 250VAC, everything on board is
125VAC. I have an isolation transformer I used in Europe to step down the
standard 240VAC service there to 120VAC, but that is not necessary in the
US. That transformer also has a 30A breaker so I am limited to 30A for all
systems on board. That still allows me run A/C, refrigeration and a hot
water heater simultaneously. If I want to use my electric tea kettle I
have to turn off the water heater or the A/C. During winter, in colder
climates than Florida, I do a lot more breaker fiddling to allow for space
heaters.If you have no experience working with AC circuits on a boat, I suggest
you get a qualified marine electrician to go over the circuits and document
what you have. If your PO is an engineer, maybe he has already done that
for you. Don’t count on the schematics provided by Pearson, they are
probably way out of date.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 11:54 AM, Paul Audi wrote:
Hi All,
More questions from the noob. I apologize in advance for my likely silly
questions.So my previous 424 had 50 amp shore power hook up. The new one looks like
it does too (based on the input in the cockpit). But the plug on the cord
looks like a 30 amp (male side; it’s even plugged into the shore outlet
that is marked 30 amp). Is it possible that someone has created a hybrid
cord? Is this bad?Also, I’m struggling to understand the nature of 50amp/125v versus 50amp
125/250v. Not sure which is appropriate for the P424 (though I believe it’s
50amp/125v). I’m very NON-technical, so a long electrical discussion won’t
help me. Mostly, I’d just like to understand what others are using on their
424s to get shore power to their systems. Ideally, I’d like to do this as
cost-effectively as possible.Could it be as simple as a pigtail adaptor at the boat input and then
using a standard 30amp cord for connectivity to 30amp show power?Thank you,
Paul
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
Thank you!
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 21, 2013, at 11:55 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Thatcher,John just explained perfectly the difference between a sea chest and a
seawater manifold. Since Silverheels has no big raw water consumers besides
the engine, which has its own, dedicated thru-hull and strainer, I didn’t
really need a sea chest. The manifold easily services this boat’s needs.Why having a sea chest or seawater intake manifold is better than not having
one is because they enable you to have many less holes in the bottom of your
boat, less thru-hulls. When I got Silverheels she had some absurd number of
thru-hulls. Pearson just stuck them in anywhere and everywhere for each and
every thing that needed to drain overboard. It was like Swiss cheese. Making
an intake manifold was part of my overall campaign to reduce the number of
these holes in the boat. Ultimately I halved the holes, from the original 18
to 9 now. I feel that’s an improvement.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Terrific idea, Tor!
Bob
On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 12:28 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Hi Paul,Welcome back to the Romper Room.
My 424 had been sitting on the hard for unknown months when I bought her.
One of the very first things I did, just before (mostly) motoring her 300
miles up the ICW to another boat yard, was to remove and replace that foggy
portlight in the cockpit sole so I could see through it, and pull the
30-year-old fuel sight gauge and replace it with a new one, readily
available from any marine store for $10 or $15. While those things were
out,
I secured a hose to a long stick with wire ties, gently lowered the end
through the sight gauge hole to the tank’s deepest point, which is at the
forward end of the tank, and used a hand pump to suck out about a gallon or
so of fuel from there. To my delight it came up clean and free of water, so
I figured (correctly, as it turned out) that it was safe to use. If it had
come up ugly, I would probably have pumped out more until it showed clear,
or if it looked too far gone, arranged for polishing.Of course, I had the advantage of a boat on the hard for a long time. Any
water and most dirt in the fuel tank would long ago have settled to the
deepest part of the tank. But even if your boat has been sitting in a calm
slip for a week, I believe you’d find most if not all of the gunk settled
to
the bottom.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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-
Thanks Tor,
Excellent idea. How long was your boat on the hard? I’m really hoping my tank is sludge-free ( like yours).
Best,Paul
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 21, 2013, at 1:23 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:Terrific idea, Tor!Bob
On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 12:28 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Hi Paul,Welcome back to the Romper Room.
My 424 had been sitting on the hard for unknown months when I bought her.
One of the very first things I did, just before (mostly) motoring her 300
miles up the ICW to another boat yard, was to remove and replace that foggy
portlight in the cockpit sole so I could see through it, and pull the
30-year-old fuel sight gauge and replace it with a new one, readily
available from any marine store for $10 or $15. While those things were
out,
I secured a hose to a long stick with wire ties, gently lowered the end
through the sight gauge hole to the tank’s deepest point, which is at the
forward end of the tank, and used a hand pump to suck out about a gallon or
so of fuel from there. To my delight it came up clean and free of water, so
I figured (correctly, as it turned out) that it was safe to use. If it had
come up ugly, I would probably have pumped out more until it showed clear,
or if it looked too far gone, arranged for polishing.Of course, I had the advantage of a boat on the hard for a long time. Any
water and most dirt in the fuel tank would long ago have settled to the
deepest part of the tank. But even if your boat has been sitting in a calm
slip for a week, I believe you’d find most if not all of the gunk settled
to
the bottom.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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