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Paul,
This afternoon I tried out my seachest, converted from the old shower sump box. Boy, you were right about the water
pressure (2 emails below)! That rigid lid in which I had such confidence bulged up noticeably when I opened the seacock
and pressurized the box. Everything held and the system works as intended, but now I’m not comfortable with the strength
of it for the long term. I’ll either beef up the box & lid with additional fiberglass, or just scrap that altogether and
build something more substantial from scratch.Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
From: Silver Heels
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 1:19 PM
To: mailing list
Subject: RE: [pearson424] shower sump & sea-chestHey Paul,
I believe it was Hans Solo who said, “Never tell me the odds!”
I intentionally placed the thru-hull for the intake seachest down low so that it would produce positive water
pressure,
thinking this would assist all systems to draw more easily and have an ample supply of water flowing back into the
seachest. The intake is also forward of all discharge thru-hulls to help insure it draws clean water. The fiberglass
sump box in my boat is pretty hefty. No way the water pressure you describe is going to break it. It’d take a
hard blow
with a small sledge to do that. The lid is 1/8″ solid ‘glass, perfectly rigid, and secured by about 30 screws. I think
it’ll suit admirably, but the proof will be in the use. I’ll let you know how it all works out.Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
From: Paul Lefebvre
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 12:56 PM
To: mailing list
Subject: RE: [pearson424] shower sump & sea-chestTor:
While it looks like you have already done most of the work on the shower
drain, you may find one of the following of interest. I recently purchased
on of these as my hose fittings on the hold sump had failed. Being self
contained, along with a float switch, means you can leave it always on and
never have to worry about the shower drain. The pump inside is a low cost
Rule bilge pump, so replacement when it breaks should be pretty easy.http://www.boatersland.com/ru97shdrkit.html
The work you have down on the sea-chest looks good and that looks like a
great way to reuse the old fiberglass shower sump. However, the engineer in
me isn’t very comfortable using a component designed to be at atmospheric
pressure as a pressure vessel. Even if it only saw a 3 ft head of water,
this would generate 1.5 psi pressure With the cover at 8″ x 15″ or 120
square inches, this would generate 180 lbs of pressure on the cover. It may
even be more than this in healed or high waves. This unit may be able to
withstand this, but it is almost 30 years old and it does now have 7 or 8
new 1″ holes in it.Hopefully it holds well when you check it out in the near future.
Paul
Boundless #28Quote:From: “Silver Heels”
Reply-To: maillist@pearson424.org
To: mailing list
Subject: [pearson424] shower sump & seachest
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 11:10:22 -0500Good day Bob,
The shower sump pump had died some time in the past and the PO, lazy…
fellow that he was, simply allowed the shower to drain into the bilge. This
is a practice more common than you might suppose, but one I have never
tolerated on my own boats. I plumbed the shower drain directly to a 12-v
water pump (with an inline strainer just before it) mounted at the bottom
of
the locker beneath the head sink, and from there overboard. I have to
switch
on the sump pump several times in the course of showering, when water
begins
to puddle in the shower pan, but I located the switch just outside the
shower stall so it’s easy to reach it. I’m looking for some kind of plastic
grating to set down in the shower stall, raised up an inch or so off the
sole, to keep my delicate toes out of the water that puddles in between
sumps, but I’m basically happy with the set up even now.The intake seachest draws from a dedicated thru-hull that I installed about
6″ forward and lower than the box. It feeds everything in the boat that
uses
seawater except the engine, which has it’s own, dedicated seacock. I must
say, though, that I have not actually sealed and tested this seachest yet.
Soon. It’s on the list.
Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Original Message
From: Robert Fine
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 10:01 AM
To: mailing list
Subject: Re: [pearson424] Raw Water strainer placementHi Tor,
Where does your shower drain now? Also, where does the water for the
sea
chest come from?Thanks,
Bob
On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 9:34 AM, Silver Heels
Eric,
I moved my raw water strainer from it’s original position. Where it
was
blocked access to the shower sump box, which I converted to a seawater
intake seachest (although I left the engine’s raw water intake separate,
with it’s own seacock). As you can see in the attached photo I only moved
the Groco off to the side. That worked out well.
Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Original Message
From: Eric Lorentzon
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 8:31 AM
To: mailing list
Subject: [pearson424] Raw Water strainer placementHi Folks –
I am replacing the simple in-line water strainer (oem) on my ’79
424.
Looking for advice on placement / mounting for the Perko that just arrived
from Santa – or maybe it was an early easterbunny dropping…..Also should
I
replace the raw water intake while it is out of the water too – it is OEM
as
well.Thanks –
Eric
“Navasana” #70—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
Hi Tor,
I like your idea, but I think I’ll make my seachest out of 6″ PVC pipe with endcaps -Someone else here did something similar.
I’m thinking of taking the sump out altogether as a simple strainer and pump would be far more useful. I have the switch in the head anyway since there’s no automatic float in the sump. Also, it would give me much better access to the bilge now that I put a holding tank in there.
Bob
On Fri, Mar 7, 2008 at 5:12 PM, Silver Heels wrote:
Paul,
This afternoon I tried out my seachest, converted from the old shower sump box. Boy, you were right about the water
pressure (2 emails below)! That rigid lid in which I had such confidence bulged up noticeably when I opened the seacock
and pressurized the box. Everything held and the system works as intended, but now I’m not comfortable with the strength
of it for the long term. I’ll either beef up the box & lid with additional fiberglass, or just scrap that altogether and
build something more substantial from scratch.Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Original Message
From: Silver Heels
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 1:19 PM
To: Mailing List
Subject: RE: [pearson424] shower sump & sea-chestHey Paul,
I believe it was Hans Solo who said, “Never tell me the odds!”
I intentionally placed the thru-hull for the intake seachest down low so that it would produce positive water
pressure,
thinking this would assist all systems to draw more easily and have an ample supply of water flowing back into the
seachest. The intake is also forward of all discharge thru-hulls to help insure it draws clean water. The fiberglass
sump box in my boat is pretty hefty. No way the water pressure you describe is going to break it. It’d take a
hard blow
with a small sledge to do that. The lid is 1/8″ solid ‘glass, perfectly rigid, and secured by about 30 screws. I think
it’ll suit admirably, but the proof will be in the use. I’ll let you know how it all works out.Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Original Message
From: Paul Lefebvre
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 12:56 PM
To: Mailing List
Subject: RE: [pearson424] shower sump & sea-chestTor:
While it looks like you have already done most of the work on the shower
drain, you may find one of the following of interest. I recently purchased
on of these as my hose fittings on the hold sump had failed. Being self
contained, along with a float switch, means you can leave it always on and
never have to worry about the shower drain. The pump inside is a low cost
Rule bilge pump, so replacement when it breaks should be pretty easy.http://www.boatersland.com/ru97shdrkit.html
The work you have down on the sea-chest looks good and that looks like a
great way to reuse the old fiberglass shower sump. However, the engineer in
me isn’t very comfortable using a component designed to be at atmospheric
pressure as a pressure vessel. Even if it only saw a 3 ft head of water,
this would generate 1.5 psi pressure With the cover at 8″ x 15″ or 120
square inches, this would generate 180 lbs of pressure on the cover. It may
even be more than this in healed or high waves. This unit may be able to
withstand this, but it is almost 30 years old and it does now have 7 or 8
new 1″ holes in it.Hopefully it holds well when you check it out in the near future.
Paul
Boundless #28From: “Silver Heels”
Reply-To: Mailing List
To:
Subject: [pearson424] shower sump & seachest
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 11:10:22 -0500Good day Bob,
The shower sump pump had died some time in the past and the PO, lazy…
fellow that he was, simply allowed the shower to drain into the bilge. This
is a practice more common than you might suppose, but one I have never
tolerated on my own boats. I plumbed the shower drain directly to a 12-v
water pump (with an inline strainer just before it) mounted at the bottom
of
the locker beneath the head sink, and from there overboard. I have to
switch
on the sump pump several times in the course of showering, when water
begins
to puddle in the shower pan, but I located the switch just outside the
shower stall so it’s easy to reach it. I’m looking for some kind of plastic
grating to set down in the shower stall, raised up an inch or so off the
sole, to keep my delicate toes out of the water that puddles in between
sumps, but I’m basically happy with the set up even now.The intake seachest draws from a dedicated thru-hull that I installed about
6″ forward and lower than the box. It feeds everything in the boat that
uses
seawater except the engine, which has it’s own, dedicated seacock. I must
say, though, that I have not actually sealed and tested this seachest yet.
Soon. It’s on the list.
Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Original Message
From: Robert Fine
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 10:01 AM
To: Mailing List
Subject: Re: [pearson424] Raw Water strainer placementHi Tor,
Where does your shower drain now? Also, where does the water for the
sea
chest come from?Thanks,
Bob
On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 9:34 AM, Silver Heels wrote:
Eric,
I moved my raw water strainer from it’s original position. Where it
was
blocked access to the shower sump box, which I converted to a seawater
intake seachest (although I left the engine’s raw water intake separate,
with it’s own seacock). As you can see in the attached photo I only moved
the Groco off to the side. That worked out well.
Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Original Message
From: Eric Lorentzon
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 8:31 AM
To: Mailing List
Subject: [pearson424] Raw Water strainer placementHi Folks –
I am replacing the simple in-line water strainer (oem) on my ’79
424.
Looking for advice on placement / mounting for the Perko that just arrived
from Santa – or maybe it was an early easterbunny dropping…..Also should
I
replace the raw water intake while it is out of the water too – it is OEM
as
well.Thanks –
Eric
“Navasana” #70—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
-
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