New Cabintop and headliner – Looking for advice

[Hull152_Patrick]

I’m thinking about how I’m going to repairreplace the cabin top liner which is damaged around each of my portholes. Example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/3232686887/

The long-term goal is to replace the headliner and the cabin top with a matching material something that is lighter in color than the teak. This unified color will give the salon appearance of being a little taller, lighter and airy than it actually is, a pretty common interior decorating trick. We have seen some boats with an almost wainscoting look to their headliners and we really like that. Initially we thought we’d use beadboard (wainscoting in plywood sheets as opposed to tongue & groove wainscoting) but the large sheets of this I’m finding are not rated for use in mobile homes (i.e., they emit noxious gases) or there not rated to be used in wet areas. Granted the boat should be dry after I replace the portholes and hatches and re-bed all the deck hardware, but better safe than sorry and I’m not doing all of that in one fell swoop.
Here’s an example of the beadboard material which is available at Lowe’s: Georgia Pacific Material: http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1085 They also make a tile board material: http://www.gp.com/build/productgroup.aspx?pid=6296 which is rated for use in wet areas and is rated for use in mobile homes. Here’s the mobile home rating info http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1085#faqQ_5867

The headliner seem pretty straight-forward once we figure out the right material. Pull down the old, use it as a pattern, put up the new.
The cabin top liner is trickier. Only the veneer is damaged, not the underlying wood. Since I took that first picture I’ve actually cut away the delaminated bits with a razor blade and right under the veneer it all seems solid.

So, the question is, what’s the best way to coverreplace around the cabin top area? Do I have to pull all the wood down from the forward bulkhead aft including the drip rail and build over? Can I just cut out the bad loose veneer and glue up something new (similar to the 1/8″-1/4″ thick beadbord)? Or is there a better way to go?

I’m trying not to make this into a bigger project than it has to be, but I’m not sure if I’m considering all the right options. I see Regina Ocean and Hi Flite you have replaced head liners, but no one seems to have had to do as extensive a fix to the cabin top liner.

I’d appreciate any advice you all might have either in materials or installation.

Thanks,
-patrick

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Paul Lefebvre]

Patrick:

My cabin top liner also has some water damage, but is still intact. We
discussed this issue at the rendezvous last summer. That liner is just thin
plywood veneer. Pretty simple to pull out and replace. However, before I
change mine, I am just going to paint it a light color, to see how I like
it. The water stains won’t show through then. Tor has already done this and
has lots of photos on his site:

http://www.silverheels.us/photos.htm

Paul

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[Hull152_Patrick]

Ooo he did replacecover up the cabin top liner as well. I totally missed that

Hey Thor, what material did you use?

-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[RichCarter]

I have the same problem in the forward cabin on the port side. This is my daughter’s cabin. She’s now 17 years old and has better things to do than hang around on the boat with her parents, so the cabin was mostly unused last summer. I didn’t notice the stain developing around the portlight until it was too last. The venir has delaminated.

I believe that the problem developed behind the coach trim just forward of the portlight. When water gets in there, it soaks into the plywood. You can’t really tell exactly where the leak started. I plan to remove the portlight and surrounding wood. I’ll then examine the backside of the plywood to get a better idea where the leak developed.

Rich
BlackSheep #47

Quote:

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[Anonymous]

Yeah tor, inquiring minds want to know!

On 1/29/09 1:52 PM, Patrick Walters wrote :

Quote:

Ooo he did replacecover up the cabin top liner as well. I totally missed that

Hey Thor, what material did you use?

-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick
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[Hull152_Patrick]

From what I’ve seen on my boat… if you have the beckson plastic portholes the screws are likely source, as are the screws inthe eyebrow trim. I’ll be removing the eyebrow on Deep Playa.

-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Tor]

Hi Pat (and other inquiring minds),

If “cabin top liner” is the paneling around the sides of the coachhouse belowdecks, around and in between the portholes & portlights, then all I did was paint them with with off-white EasyPoxy one-part polyurethane. That was a year and a half ago and they’re still lookin’ good. That paneling was in good shape at the time. I just wanted to brighten up the interior. I painted numerous dark teak bulkheads at the same time. It made a world of difference, esthetically.

The headliner in my boat was in excellent shape when I bought her. All I did was wipe it clean. I did discover one area of rotted headliner backing when I took some of the salon panels down to install the mast pulpits. The cause was an old deck fitting leak long since repaired. I replaced that backing with some Home Depot doorskin, but re-used the vinyl (or whatever that stuff is) covering.

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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[kalinowski]

The PO on Lady Leanne also painted this area around the whole boat (head included) white as well as the wall under the stairs in the main saloon. This really alleviates the teak “cave” look.

Another “trick” that I just installed on our boat to warm up the cabin is using sheets of acrylic mirror. I had one trimmed to cover the entire bulkhead behind the galley sink (also a good backsplash) and will have another installed on the forward bulkhead above the v berth. Like any mirror, it really opens up the size of the cabin as well as reflecting existing light to brighten it up below. I used the 1/4″ stuff, which is much stiffer and easier to work with. I think the 4×8 sheet cost me around $150 in Honolulu.

I also used this material to install mirrors on the inside upper panels of the forward cabin and the head doors (the wife is happier).

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne (#135)
Honolulu

[sumocean]

Rich

I haven’t looked too hard at this one yet. In the vberth on the starboard side I grabbed the trim on the base of the teak plywood forward of the portlight too turn around in the berth and the whole panel on that side has dropped about half an inch out of place. When you take out the wood would you let me know how it is secured. I have been busy with other boat projects and with a quick look I didn’t see any obvious fasteners. The aft end has the port light and forward there seems to be nothing holding the panel in place. As we say down south I’m fixin’ to install the windlass so I will be spending a little more time up there while waiting for the epoxy to kick maybe I’ll have a chance too investigate the support. I could become the dreaded PO and just through bolt it.

Linus

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[Anonymous]

I have been following this discussion and have general question about the head liners. Has anyone used or looked at the hadboard covered with melamine, about 3/16 thick comes in 4×8 sheets – water resistant. It is rather in expensive as materials go and comes in a lot of designs. I have used it in a number of applications around the house but not the boat. Any thoughts

Cada
Jubilee

Jan 29, 2009 09:22:10 PM, () wrote:

I’m thinking about how I’m going to repairreplace the cabin top liner which is damaged around each of my portholes. Example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/3232686887/

The long-term goal is to replace the headliner and the cabin top with a matching material something that is lighter in color than the teak. This unified color will give the salon appearance of being a little taller, lighter and airy than it actually is, a pretty common interior decorating trick. We have seen some boats with an almost wainscoting look to their headliners and we really like that. Initially we thought we’d use beadboard (wainscoting in plywood sheets as opposed to tongue & groove wainscoting) but the large sheets of this I’m finding are not rated for use in mobile homes (i.e., they emit noxious gases) or there not rated to be used in wet areas. Granted the boat should be dry after I replace the portholes and hatches and re-bed all the deck hardware, but better safe than sorry and I’m not doing all of that in one fell swoop.
Here’s an example of the beadboard material which is available at Lowe’s: Georgia Pacific Material: http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1085 They also make a tile board material: http://www.gp.com/build/productgroup.aspx?pid=6296 which is rated for use in wet areas and is rated for use in mobile homes. Here’s the mobile home rating info http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1085#faqQ_5867

The headliner seem pretty straight-forward once we figure out the right material. Pull down the old, use it as a pattern, put up the new.
The cabin top liner is trickier. Only the veneer is damaged, not the underlying wood. Since I took that first picture I’ve actually cut away the delaminated bits with a razor blade and right under the veneer it all seems solid.

So, the question is, what’s the best way to coverreplace around the cabin top area? Do I have to pull all the wood down from the forward bulkhead aft including the drip rail and build over? Can I just cut out the bad loose veneer and glue up something new (similar to the 1/8″-1/4″ thick beadbord)? Or is there a better way to go?

I’m trying not to make this into a bigger project than it has to be, but I’m not sure if I’m considering all the right options. I see Regina Ocean and Hi Flite you have replaced head liners, but no one seems to have had to do as extensive a fix to the cabin top liner.

I’d appreciate any advice you all might have either in materials or installation.

Thanks,
-patrick

---

s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

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[Hull152_Patrick]

I’ve been looking into all of these thin, flexible, finished on one side, pressboardhardboardetc materials. The main thing in my research that I learned is that lots of these materials have urea formaldehyde resin and may release formaldehyde vapors (off-gassing like you hear about in new construction or the mobile home they used in Katrina). I would check into that for the material you’re looking at. The Jubilee beadboard made by Georgia Pacific at home Depot and Lowe’s DOES contain urea formaldehyde. They have other products (the ones that look like tile) which do not. If you don’t care about that then I guess your only concerns will be the durability and water resistance of the material. If the product recommends you can use it in showersbathroom you’re probably safe, you could probably go more for straight paneling if you trust all your hardware in the cabin top is well bedded. Mine are not yet. 😉

I’m currently looking at Nantucket Beadboard’s EFP based product. I have a few questions about it still and I’ not sure how much it costs, but it looks my current best option.

http://www.beadboard.com/products/Substrates.html

EFP
The EFP Series 100 & 200 are environmentally friendly products that conform to formaldehyde content and emissions standards set by the California Air Resources Board (CARB). Series 100 interior grade MDF products meet CARB Phase 1 compliance regulations; Series 200 interior grade MDF products meet CARB Phase 2 compliance regulations.
That’s where my research is taking me, I’m in no way an expert though, so do compare it with your own.
-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick

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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Anonymous]

I stopped at my local home store/building supply store today. They had two suggestions. The melamine coated masonite (I can not find any web site listing any concerns with off gassing issues) at 16.00 a sheet with a number of color selections. I would appreciate any references I can read.

The second one is a product called Structoglas at about 50.00 a 4×8. It is used in commerical areas to meet sanitary requirements. It is about 3/32 thick with a number of color and testure choices. Sounda a little expensive.

Will keep looking – I will be a Lowes tomorrow and will check to see what they currently carry and if they have any product information.

Feb 2, 2009 01:56:18 AM, () wrote:

Quote:

I’ve been looking into all of these thin, flexible, finished on one side, pressboardhardboardetc materials. The main thing in my research that I learned is that lots of these materials have urea formaldehyde resin and may release formaldehyde vapors (off-gassing like you hear about in new construction or the mobile home they used in Katrina). I would check into that for the material you’re looking at. The Jubilee beadboard made by Georgia Pacific at home Depot and Lowe’s DOES contain urea formaldehyde. They have other products (the ones that look like tile) which do not. If you don’t care about that then I guess your only concerns will be the durability and water resistance of the material. If the product recommends you can use it in showersbathroom you’re probably safe, you could probably go more for straight paneling if you trust all your hardware in the cabin top is well bedded. Mine are not yet. 😉

I’m currently looking at Nantucket Beadboard’s EFP based product. I have a few questions about it still and I’ not sure how much it costs, but it looks my current best option.

http://www.beadboard.com/products/Substrates.html

EFP
The EFP Series 100 & 200 are environmentally friendly products that conform to formaldehyde content and emissions standards set by the California Air Resources Board (CARB). Series 100 interior grade MDF products meet CARB Phase 1 compliance regulations; Series 200 interior grade MDF products meet CARB Phase 2 compliance regulations.
That’s where my research is taking me, I’m in no way an expert though, so do compare it with your own.
-p

---

s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick

<.. snip>

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[Anonymous]

Check out white formica from Lowes. That is what I used (glued to the
existing plywood after removing the vinyl). One of the better things I
did for the boat.

Pete

wrote:

Quote:

I stopped at my local home store/building supply store today. They
had two suggestions. The melamine coated masonite (I can not find any
web site listing any concerns with off gassing issues) at 16.00 a
sheet with a number of color selections. I would appreciate any
references I can read.

The second one is a product called Structoglas at about 50.00 a 4×8.
It is used in commerical areas to meet sanitary requirements. It is
about 3/32 thick with a number of color and testure choices. Sounda a
little expensive.

Will keep looking – I will be a Lowes tomorrow and will check to see
what they currently carry and if they have any product information.

Feb 2, 2009 01:56:18 AM,
wrote:

I’ve been looking into all of these thin, flexible, finished on
one side, pressboardhardboardetc materials. The main thing in my
research that I learned is that lots of these materials have urea
formaldehyde resin and may release formaldehyde vapors
(off-gassing like you hear about in new construction or the mobile
home they used in Katrina). I would check into that for the
material you’re looking at. The Jubilee beadboard made by Georgia
Pacific at home Depot and Lowe’s DOES contain urea formaldehyde.
They have other products (the ones that look like tile) which do
not. If you don’t care about that then I guess your only concerns
will be the durability and water resistance of the material. If
the product recommends you can use it in showersbathroom you’re
probably safe, you could probably go more for straight paneling if
you trust all your hardware in the cabin top is well bedded. Mine
are not yet. 😉

I’m currently looking at Nantucket Beadboard’s EFP based product.
I have a few questions about it still and I’ not sure how much it
costs, but it looks my current best option.

http://www.beadboard.com/products/Substrates.html

EFP

The EFP Series 100 & 200 are environmentally friendly products
that conform to formaldehyde content and emissions standards set
by the California Air Resources Board (CARB). Series 100 interior
grade MDF products meet CARB Phase 1 compliance regulations;
Series 200 interior grade MDF products meet CARB Phase 2
compliance regulations.

That’s where my research is taking me, I’m in no way an expert
though, so do compare it with your own.
-p

---

s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 |
<http://www.deepplaya.com/>http://www.DeepPlaya.com

Patrick’s Sailing Blog |
<http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick>http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick

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[joe shimkonis]

I know most of you won’t approve but I redid my cabin top using 3/16″ wood paneling [4 by 8] with finished white gloss surface-purchased at either Home Depot or Lowes..It has 2 parrallel grooves about an inch apart and then repeats every 10 inches or so.Mine was not the first boat in Oriental to do this.When the old fabric was removed we found 2 small leaks-one from the mast and one from the forward hatch.After fixing those we installed a layer of insulation sandwiched between the paneling and the ceiling.The addl thickness reqd shaving the outer trim pcs with a router by an 1/8″.This was 6 months ago.It looks and has held up great.I figure if a panel gets damaged,it will cost $40 to replace.We have new Shannon’s in the area-the ceilings looks similar.This turned out awesome.
Added new teak and holly floor on top of old.Varnished and trimmed out-like new.Added teak floor trim to hide old dark stains just above the flloor boards.New brass pulls to remove floor panels.
Added 2 more dorade cowls to cabin top to add more air movement and circulation to the cabin.
Re-did bathroom sink counter top with black corian,replaced white formica side with teak wood.Added new SS sink and faucet.Plan on converting to compost head and simplifying the plumbing below.
Plan to re-do galley with black corian in the future.
Converted center storage space above port salon to become a wine rack- now that was my greatest improvement!
Added new custom fit mattress to v-berth that is fitted to the cabin sides slope.Added a lot more sleep space for the wife.: >

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Joe Shimkonis

[Anonymous]

Joe, Do you have any pictures you will share?

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[kalinowski]

Joe:

Do you have any pix on the additional dorade installation? Where did you put them?

Dan Kalinowski
S/V Lady Leanne (#135)
Honolulu

[kalinowski]

Joe:

Do you have any pix/advice on the additional dorade installation? Where did you locate them?

Dan Kalinowski
S/V Lady Leanne (#135)
Honolulu

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