Man that prop pushes (and walks) hard to starboard

[Hull152_Patrick]

On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my survey the boat was really pushing to starboard (the same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too. Free Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

I was wondering if this was a common experience and what people have done (if anything) to improve it. I was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit. Prop is marked 20LH13.

Thanks,
-p

Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

[Anonymous]

I have a Max-Prop and I get prop walk to starboard in
reverse…can’t say if it would be worse with a
regular prop since I can’t compare..but I can only say
the max still gives a prop walk…quite severe,
especially whe you don’t want to go that way…LOL!
— Patrick_Seattle <> wrote:

On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my
survey the boat was really pushing to starboard (the
same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor
Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too. Free
Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

I was wondering if this was a common experience and
what people have done (if anything) to improve it. I
was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit. Prop
is marked 20LH13.

Thanks,
-p

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[madsailor]

I may be doing something wrong, but I don't feel prop walk in any particular direction astern – Pelican goes pretty much at random until enough way is on for the rudder to work (which, by the way, is considerable as the rudder is way too small for the boat). Going astern in a tight situation is always an adventure. I have a three bladed prop and a W58.

Bob

On Wed, May 7, 2008 at 5:10 AM, Joseph Steiner < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I have a Max-Prop and I get prop walk to starboard in
reverse…can't say if it would be worse with a
regular prop since I can't compare..but I can only say
the max still gives a prop walk…quite severe,
especially whe you don't want to go that way…LOL!

— Patrick_Seattle < ([email][/email])> wrote:

On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my
survey the boat was really pushing to starboard (the
same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor
Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too. Free
Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

I was wondering if this was a common experience and
what people have done (if anything) to improve it. I
was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit. Prop
is marked 20LH13.

Thanks,
-p

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[Anonymous]

I have the same issue with a Maxi prop to starboard in reverse.In fact,with a strong current,strong winds,and the starboard action I had a rather unpleasent experience in Beaufort,NC this weekend.Are there any tricks that can get these boats to back to port?Rudder setting,certain speed?I’m thinking seriously about a bow thruster.

Joseph Steiner <> wrote:

I have a Max-Prop and I get prop walk to starboard in
reverse…can’t say if it would be worse with a
regular prop since I can’t compare..but I can only say
the max still gives a prop walk…quite severe,
especially whe you don’t want to go that way…LOL!
— Patrick_Seattle wrote:

On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my
survey the boat was really pushing to starboard (the
same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor
Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too. Free
Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

I was wondering if this was a common experience and
what people have done (if anything) to improve it. I
was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit. Prop
is marked 20LH13.

Thanks,
-p

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[Anonymous]

If you floor it you can get more control..but make
sure you don’t crash into anything going backwards!!
Ohhh to have a bow thruster!! makes me salivate.

— joe shimkonis <> wrote:

I have the same issue with a Maxi prop to starboard
in reverse.In fact,with a strong current,strong
winds,and the starboard action I had a rather
unpleasent experience in Beaufort,NC this
weekend.Are there any tricks that can get these
boats to back to port?Rudder setting,certain
speed?I’m thinking seriously about a bow thruster.

Joseph Steiner <> wrote: I have a
Max-Prop and I get prop walk to starboard in
reverse…can’t say if it would be worse with a
regular prop since I can’t compare..but I can only
say
the max still gives a prop walk…quite severe,
especially whe you don’t want to go that way…LOL!
— Patrick_Seattle
wrote:

On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my
survey the boat was really pushing to starboard

(the

same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor
Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too.

Free

Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

I was wondering if this was a common experience

and

what people have done (if anything) to improve it.

I

was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit.

Prop

is marked 20LH13.

Thanks,
-p

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[rrepp]

Get as much speed up, under power, as possible in reverse. Then go to
neutral. You then have current running past the rudder but no propwalk.

Ronald S. Repp, CPCU, CLU
Schauer Insurance
200 Market Ave., N Suite 100
Phone: (330) 453-7721
Fax: (330) 453-4911
Email:

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[unabated]

I 2nd Bob here. Pretty random with no wind blowing.
W58 and a 20LH12 Was a 13 but repitched it last year.
alan

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

I may be doing something wrong, but I don’t feel
prop walk in any particular
direction astern – Pelican goes pretty much at
random until enough way is on
for the rudder to work (which, by the way, is
considerable as the rudder is
way too small for the boat). Going astern in a
tight situation is always an
adventure. I have a three bladed prop and a W58.

Bob

On Wed, May 7, 2008 at 5:10 AM, Joseph Steiner
<> wrote:

I have a Max-Prop and I get prop walk to starboard

in

reverse…can’t say if it would be worse with a
regular prop since I can’t compare..but I can only

say

the max still gives a prop walk…quite severe,
especially whe you don’t want to go that

way…LOL!

— Patrick_Seattle <>

wrote:

On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my
survey the boat was really pushing to starboard

(the

same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor
Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too.

Free

Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

I was wondering if this was a common experience

and

what people have done (if anything) to improve

it. I

was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit.

Prop

is marked 20LH13.

Thanks,
-p

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[Anonymous]

I do a variation of that..short bursts of power, but
when I’m in reverse it’s because I’m in very tight
quarters, like a tight marina. Other wise, I’m at
anchor with lots of space and no issues whatever the
boat wants to do.
Trying to stay away from marinas as much as
possible…lying at anchor now, Falmouth Harbor,
Antigua.
— Ron Repp <> wrote:

Quote:

Get as much speed up, under power, as possible in
reverse. Then go to
neutral. You then have current running past the
rudder but no propwalk.

Ronald S. Repp, CPCU, CLU
Schauer Insurance
200 Market Ave., N Suite 100
Phone: (330) 453-7721
Fax: (330) 453-4911
Email:

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[unabated]

I do find that alot of power at first, then back off
or even go to neutral to get some way on, works
well… or as I tell SO….. just make it look like
which ever way it’s going, thats what you intended….

That works every time
alan

— Joseph Steiner <> wrote:

If you floor it you can get more control..but make
sure you don’t crash into anything going backwards!!

Ohhh to have a bow thruster!! makes me salivate.

— joe shimkonis <> wrote:

I have the same issue with a Maxi prop to

starboard

in reverse.In fact,with a strong current,strong
winds,and the starboard action I had a rather
unpleasent experience in Beaufort,NC this
weekend.Are there any tricks that can get these
boats to back to port?Rudder setting,certain
speed?I’m thinking seriously about a bow thruster.

Joseph Steiner <> wrote: I have

a

Max-Prop and I get prop walk to starboard in
reverse…can’t say if it would be worse with a
regular prop since I can’t compare..but I can only
say
the max still gives a prop walk…quite severe,
especially whe you don’t want to go that

way…LOL!

— Patrick_Seattle
wrote:

On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my
survey the boat was really pushing to starboard

(the

same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor

Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too.

Free

Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

I was wondering if this was a common experience

and

what people have done (if anything) to improve

it.

I

was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit.

Prop

is marked 20LH13.

Thanks,
-p

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[unabated]

Did you spend the winter in DR?
alan
— Joseph Steiner <> wrote:

Quote:

I do a variation of that..short bursts of power, but
when I’m in reverse it’s because I’m in very tight
quarters, like a tight marina. Other wise, I’m at
anchor with lots of space and no issues whatever the
boat wants to do.
Trying to stay away from marinas as much as
possible…lying at anchor now, Falmouth Harbor,
Antigua.
— Ron Repp <> wrote:

Quote:

Get as much speed up, under power, as possible in
reverse. Then go to
neutral. You then have current running past the
rudder but no propwalk.

Ronald S. Repp, CPCU, CLU
Schauer Insurance
200 Market Ave., N Suite 100
Phone: (330) 453-7721
Fax: (330) 453-4911
Email:

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[Anonymous]

no, I spent the hurricane season of 07 there..went to
PR, Virgins, and now in EC islands, heading to Grenada
for 08 hurricane season.
— alan P <> wrote:

Did you spend the winter in DR?
alan
— Joseph Steiner <> wrote:

I do a variation of that..short bursts of power,

but

when I’m in reverse it’s because I’m in very tight
quarters, like a tight marina. Other wise, I’m at
anchor with lots of space and no issues whatever

the

boat wants to do.
Trying to stay away from marinas as much as
possible…lying at anchor now, Falmouth Harbor,
Antigua.
— Ron Repp <> wrote:

Get as much speed up, under power, as possible

in

Quote:

Quote:

reverse. Then go to
neutral. You then have current running past the
rudder but no propwalk.

Ronald S. Repp, CPCU, CLU
Schauer Insurance
200 Market Ave., N Suite 100
Phone: (330) 453-7721
Fax: (330) 453-4911
Email:

---

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[RichCarter]

This is common. At full throttle, it takes two hands to hold the wheel. Pearson offset the propeller shaft to starboard to allow the shaft to be removed without having to cutoff the rudder skeg. When combined with the left-hand turn of the shaft, this makes the boat turn to starboard when under power. IMHO, Pearson should have offset the propeller to port instead to compensate for the prop rotation rather than enforce it.

—
Rich Carter

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[unabated]

Or do it like Sabre on their 34… REALLY offset
shaft, but you can just about parrallel park that
boat!!

— wrote:

Quote:

This is common. At full throttle, it takes two
hands to hold the wheel. Pearson offset the
propeller shaft to starboard to allow the shaft to
be removed without having to cutoff the rudder skeg.
When combined with the left-hand turn of the shaft,
this makes the boat turn to starboard when under
power. IMHO, Pearson should have offset the
propeller to port instead to compensate for the prop
rotation rather than enforce it.

—
Rich Carter

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[Anonymous]

RTFL, I got some interesting looks from people wondering why I was backing all the way out of Shoreline Marina in Long Beach, making a wake in reverse. Sure, most people would have turned the bow out, but I “MEANT’ to turn the other way and back all the way out past 20-30 slips.

In my new Marina, the exit is to port, so I look like a total pro, I reverse and the boat turns about 60 degrees to starboard, forward and I’m out. Just make sure you don’t get a slip with rocks on the stbd quarter. 🙂

On 5/7/08 6:25 AM, alan P wrote :

I do find that alot of power at first, then back off
or even go to neutral to get some way on, works
well… or as I tell SO….. just make it look like
which ever way it’s going, thats what you intended….

That works every time
alan

— Joseph Steiner <> wrote:

If you floor it you can get more control..but make
sure you don’t crash into anything going backwards!!

Ohhh to have a bow thruster!! makes me salivate.

— joe shimkonis <> wrote:

I have the same issue with a Maxi prop to

starboard

in reverse.In fact,with a strong current,strong
winds,and the starboard action I had a rather
unpleasent experience in Beaufort,NC this
weekend.Are there any tricks that can get these
boats to back to port?Rudder setting,certain
speed?I’m thinking seriously about a bow thruster.

Joseph Steiner <> wrote: I have

a

Max-Prop and I get prop walk to starboard in
reverse…can’t say if it would be worse with a
regular prop since I can’t compare..but I can only
say
the max still gives a prop walk…quite severe,
especially whe you don’t want to go that

way…LOL!

— Patrick_Seattle
wrote:

On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my
survey the boat was really pushing to starboard

(the

same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor

Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too.

Free

Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

I was wondering if this was a common experience

and

what people have done (if anything) to improve

it.

I

was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit.

Prop

is marked 20LH13.

Thanks,
-p

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[madsailor]

Hi Rich,

I don't think my prop is offset at all – it looks as if I have to take the rudder out to remove the shaft (although I've seen the rudder notched on one 424). That might be the reason Pelican walks all over the place.

This is one of the funnier threads – the net net is that if you look like you meant to do it, no one questions. (I meant to find that darn rock…)

Bob

On Wed, May 7, 2008 at 11:24 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

This is common. At full throttle, it takes two hands to hold the wheel. Pearson offset the propeller shaft to starboard to allow the shaft to be removed without having to cutoff the rudder skeg. When combined with the left-hand turn of the shaft, this makes the boat turn to starboard when under power. IMHO, Pearson should have offset the propeller to port instead to compensate for the prop rotation rather than enforce it.

—
Rich Carter

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[Anonymous]

In my experience, all single-screw boats back either to port (right-hand prop) or to starboard (left-hand prop). Once you know which way your boat backs, you can use it to your advantage in tight quarters. Our 424’s back to starboard because they have left-handed props. When you want to turn the boat in tight quarters under power, you can virtually pivot her in place simply by putting the helm hard over to port and then giving the engine alternating bursts of power in forward and reverse gears. Don’t bother spinning the wheel for each gear change, as many inexperienced boaters do. Just leave the helm hard to port. Since you’re not going to move enough in this maneuver to create water flow past the rudder in reverse, it makes no difference which way the rudder is turned in that gear. In forward, the strong prop wash hits the rudder and kicks the bow to port. In reverse, the natural walk effect of the left-handed prop shoves the stern to starboard. The boat will spin counter clockwise in a series of tight jerks. It’s a very handy, controlled maneuver. However, it only works in one direction. Don’t even try to pivot your boat clockwise with a left-handed prop.

For backing out of a slip in the intended direction, a spring line led from the quarter cleat around the outermost piling or dock cleat and back to the boat again can spin your boat perfectly in either direction, regardless of prop wash, wind or current. You or a crew who knows what they’re doing can then feed out the line as necessary and, when the boat is clear of the dock, let go one end & retrieve it.

As for backing a single-screw boat “straight,” it’s very difficult with a skeg-hung or keel-hung rudder. The prop walk in reverse is inevitable and the rudder cannot compensate until the boat’s got on sufficient way. Dropping the engine RPM’s to idle or shifting to neutral once the boat is moving backwards at a few knots, as has been suggested, will stop the prop walk effect and give you steerage with the rudder – until the boat slows down again. Then you’ll have that walk to starboard again as soon as you engage the engine in reverse and give it power. Knowing this, it’s possible to sort of zigzag backwards, playing the prop walk and rudder steerage against each other.

Boats with balanced spade rudders tend to have much more control in reverse, the rudders overcoming the prop walk much more quickly and effectively. Some are able to maneuver almost as easily as in forward. Hardly seems fair.

Tor

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[Anonymous]

spring lines….

joe shimkonis wrote:

I have the same issue with a Maxi prop to starboard in reverse.In
fact,with a strong current,strong winds,and the starboard action I had
a rather unpleasent experience in Beaufort,NC this weekend.Are there
any tricks that can get these boats to back to port?Rudder
setting,certain speed?I’m thinking seriously about a bow thruster.

*/Joseph Steiner <>/* wrote:

I have a Max-Prop and I get prop walk to starboard in
reverse…can’t say if it would be worse with a
regular prop since I can’t compare..but I can only say
the max still gives a prop walk…quite severe,
especially whe you don’t want to go that way…LOL!
— Patrick_Seattle wrote:

On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my
survey the boat was really pushing to starboard (the
same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor
Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too. Free
Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

I was wondering if this was a common experience and
what people have done (if anything) to improve it. I
was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit. Prop
is marked 20LH13.

Thanks,
-p

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[Syringa]

Patrick

Hope you had a good trip back from Bellingham! I have been looking into the prop pull on Syringa as you know. (This is when the vessel is under steady steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above) (not backing or docking) I don’t believe the shaft is off set (if it is it’s not much) and should not account for that much pull. The prop may be over pitched. I will let you know if or when I come up with the answer.

I would like to hear from anyone who has changed propellers or reduced the pitch.

Thanks
Don
Syringa

[unabated]

I don’t think mine is offset either. I had my shaft
out last year to replace and I had no problems.
alan
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Hi Rich,

I don’t think my prop is offset at all – it looks as
if I have to take the
rudder out to remove the shaft (although I’ve seen
the rudder notched on one
424). That might be the reason Pelican walks all
over the place.

This is one of the funnier threads – the net net is
that if you look like
you meant to do it, no one questions. (I meant to
find that darn rock…)

Bob

On Wed, May 7, 2008 at 11:24 AM,
<> wrote:

This is common. At full throttle, it takes two

hands to hold the wheel.

Pearson offset the propeller shaft to starboard

to allow the shaft to be

removed without having to cutoff the rudder skeg.

When combined with the

left-hand turn of the shaft, this makes the boat

turn to starboard when

under power. IMHO, Pearson should have offset the

propeller to port instead

to compensate for the prop rotation rather than

enforce it.

—
Rich Carter

---

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<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[unabated]

I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly because I
thought I should have more engine RPM’s before the
engine started to bellow black smoke. I have a W58 and
now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I ever run it
that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
alan
— Syringa <> wrote:

Patrick

Hope you had a good trip back from Bellingham! I
have been looking into the prop pull on Syringa as
you know. (This is when the vessel is under steady
steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above) (not
backing or docking) I don’t believe the shaft is
off set (if it is it’s not much) and should not
account for that much pull. The prop may be over
pitched. I will let you know if or when I come up
with the answer.

I would like to hear from anyone who has changed
propellers or reduced the pitch.

Thanks
Don
Syringa

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[madsailor]

Really? I cruise at 1900-2000 rpm at 6 to 6.5 knots. I can get the engine up to 2400 rpm, but by that point it's trying to climb out of the water. At 1900 rpm it's burning about 3/4 gallon per hour. At 2200, it's burning nearly 2 gal/hr. Since the gain in speed of at most a knot isn't worth it, I just cruise right along.

What are your experiences with speed/rpm/fuel consumption?

Bob

On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 3:17 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly because I
thought I should have more engine RPM's before the
engine started to bellow black smoke. I have a W58 and
now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I ever run it
that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
alan

— Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Patrick

Hope you had a good trip back from Bellingham! I
have been looking into the prop pull on Syringa as
you know. (This is when the vessel is under steady
steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above) (not
backing or docking) I don't believe the shaft is
off set (if it is it's not much) and should not
account for that much pull. The prop may be over
pitched. I will let you know if or when I come up
with the answer.

I would like to hear from anyone who has changed
propellers or reduced the pitch.

Thanks
Don
Syringa

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[Adam Silverstein]

Excellent survey question. Cruise 1800-2000, fuel burn 3/4 to 1 1/4 gph. Speed 6-6 3/4 kn

-Adam Silverstein(via iPhone)

On May 8, 2008, at 7:05 AM, “Robert Fine” < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Really? I cruise at 1900-2000 rpm at 6 to 6.5 knots. I can get the engine up to 2400 rpm, but by that point it’s trying to climb out of the water. At 1900 rpm it’s burning about 3/4 gallon per hour. At 2200, it’s burning nearly 2 gal/hr. Since the gain in speed of at most a knot isn’t worth it, I just cruise right along.

What are your experiences with speed/rpm/fuel consumption?

Bob

On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 3:17 AM, alan P <()> wrote:

I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly because I
thought I should have more engine RPM’s before the
engine started to bellow black smoke. I have a W58 and
now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I ever run it
that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
alan

— Syringa <()> wrote:

Patrick

Hope you had a good trip back from Bellingham! I
have been looking into the prop pull on Syringa as
you know. (This is when the vessel is under steady
steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above) (not
backing or docking) I don’t believe the shaft is
off set (if it is it’s not much) and should not
account for that much pull. The prop may be over
pitched. I will let you know if or when I come up
with the answer.

I would like to hear from anyone who has changed
propellers or reduced the pitch.

Thanks
Don
Syringa

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[madsailor]

Hi Adam,

That seems right. I'm wondering why you'd want to run the engine above about 2 grand? Sure, the red line is like 3400 rpm, at least for the W58, and it has been said that diesels 'like' to run at 80% of their max speed (or 2720 for the W58) (which I think is bullcrap, mostly because just because you can do a thing doesn't mean you should do that thing), but with any machinery, running slower is probably running better.

Not only that, but it's so noisy at higher speeds…

Bob

On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 4:30 AM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Excellent survey question. Cruise 1800-2000, fuel burn 3/4 to 1 1/4 gph. Speed 6-6 3/4 kn

-Adam Silverstein(via iPhone)

On May 8, 2008, at 7:05 AM, “Robert Fine” < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Really? I cruise at 1900-2000 rpm at 6 to 6.5 knots. I can get the engine up to 2400 rpm, but by that point it's trying to climb out of the water. At 1900 rpm it's burning about 3/4 gallon per hour. At 2200, it's burning nearly 2 gal/hr. Since the gain in speed of at most a knot isn't worth it, I just cruise right along.

What are your experiences with speed/rpm/fuel consumption?

Bob

On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 3:17 AM, alan P < ([email][/email]) ([email][/email])> wrote:

I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly because I
thought I should have more engine RPM's before the
engine started to bellow black smoke. I have a W58 and
now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I ever run it
that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
alan

— Syringa < ([email][/email]) ([email][/email])> wrote:

Patrick

Hope you had a good trip back from Bellingham! I
have been looking into the prop pull on Syringa as
you know. (This is when the vessel is under steady
steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above) (not
backing or docking) I don't believe the shaft is
off set (if it is it's not much) and should not
account for that much pull. The prop may be over
pitched. I will let you know if or when I come up
with the answer.

I would like to hear from anyone who has changed
propellers or reduced the pitch.

Thanks
Don
Syringa

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Bob Fine
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Your data on the web your way. No kidding

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

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[RichCarter]

No two 424’s are the same. I would expect that Pearson wouldn’t change this detail however since it takes quite a lot of work to get things designed properly. On my boat, the shaft is offcenter to starboard about 2 inches. This places the V-drive slightly offcenter to port and the skeg is canted slightly to starboard. If you remove the shaft, it pulls out just below and to starboard of the rudder skeg.

—
Rich Carter

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[dhjppn]

ok – so now i want to do some correlation. Please send to: ()
the following very brief email:

Hull number (ex: 178):
Offset (ex: yes meaning I believe the shaft on my boat is off center or no etc): Yes or No
Pull stbd while in forward: Yes or No

so my boat:
Hull Number: 178
Offset: No
Pull stbd while in forward: No

Please don't reply to the list. I'll put together the responses.

pat

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[RichCarter]

Pat
On the question regarding pulling to starboard. I would have probably said no before repowering. At speeds below about 6.7 kts, it isn’t noticeable. If you took your hand off the wheel, the boat would turn to port, but I never really thought about it. With the added power from the new engine, I can cruise at higher speeds, so it becomes very noticeable. At full throttle, it will overpower the autopilot. There’s no reason to run that fast however. If I remember, I’ll take a photo of the prop when viewed from directly behind the rudder and post it so you can see how far the shaft is offset.

—
Rich Carter

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[unabated]

141
no
yes
— pat <> wrote:

ok – so now i want to do some correlation. Please
send to:
the following very brief email:

Hull number (ex: 178):
Offset (ex: yes meaning I believe the shaft on my
boat is off center or no
etc): Yes or No
Pull stbd while in forward: Yes or No

so my boat:
Hull Number: 178
Offset: No
Pull stbd while in forward: No

Please don’t reply to the list. I’ll put together
the responses.

pat

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[Anonymous]

Hull number 66
Offset No
Walking Unknown

David

<.. snip>

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[Anonymous]

Thanks for the detailed answer.I printed it and will
work on it this weekend.
— Silver Heels <> wrote:

Quote:

Re: Man that prop pushes (and walks)
hard to starboardIn my
experience, all single-screw boats back either to
port (right-hand prop) or
to starboard (left-hand prop). Once you know which
way your boat backs, you
can use it to your advantage in tight quarters. Our
424’s back to starboard
because they have left-handed props. When you want
to turn the boat in tight
quarters under power, you can virtually pivot her in
place simply by putting
the helm hard over to port and then giving the
engine alternating bursts of
power in forward and reverse gears. Don’t bother
spinning the wheel for each
gear change, as many inexperienced boaters do. Just
leave the helm hard to
port. Since you’re not going to move enough in this
maneuver to create water
flow past the rudder in reverse, it makes no
difference which way the rudder
is turned in that gear. In forward, the strong prop
wash hits the rudder and
kicks the bow to port. In reverse, the natural walk
effect of the
left-handed prop shoves the stern to starboard. The
boat will spin counter
clockwise in a series of tight jerks. It’s a very
handy, controlled
maneuver. However, it only works in one direction.
Don’t even try to pivot
your boat clockwise with a left-handed prop.

For backing out of a slip in the intended direction,
a spring line led from
the quarter cleat around the outermost piling or
dock cleat and back to the
boat again can spin your boat perfectly in either
direction, regardless of
prop wash, wind or current. You or a crew who knows
what they’re doing can
then feed out the line as necessary and, when the
boat is clear of the dock,
let go one end & retrieve it.

As for backing a single-screw boat “straight,” it’s
very difficult with a
skeg-hung or keel-hung rudder. The prop walk in
reverse is inevitable and
the rudder cannot compensate until the boat’s got on
sufficient way.
Dropping the engine RPM’s to idle or shifting to
neutral once the boat is
moving backwards at a few knots, as has been
suggested, will stop the prop
walk effect and give you steerage with the rudder –
until the boat slows
down again. Then you’ll have that walk to starboard
again as soon as you
engage the engine in reverse and give it power.
Knowing this, it’s possible
to sort of zigzag backwards, playing the prop walk
and rudder steerage
against each other.

Boats with balanced spade rudders tend to have much
more control in reverse,
the rudders overcoming the prop walk much more
quickly and effectively. Some
are able to maneuver almost as easily as in forward.
Hardly seems fair.

Tor

---

Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us

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[madsailor]

My boat

Hull Number: 8
Offset: No
Pull stbd while in forward: No
Walk in astern: Random

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[Anonymous]

Have Hull #216

Offset Yes

Also have Max-Prop

No apparent problems

Capt John Mariposa

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[Seawater]

There is a VERY good write-up on using prop walk to your advantage in the Krogen trawler FAQ http://www.his.com/~vann/KrgStuff/360turns.htm

I used this technique on hull #1 with good success, including the part where you just leave the helm hard to starboard when backing (counter intuitive) and give short bursts of full power to “hop” the stern to port. You back up with a scalloping path.

It works. I don’t fear docks near as much anymore.

[Anonymous]

Thanks so much for this article-hope to try it this
weekend!!!
— Seawater <> wrote:

There is a VERY good write-up on using prop walk to
your advantage in the Krogen trawler FAQ
http://www.his.com/~vann/KrgStuff/360turns.htm

I used this technique on hull #1 with good success,
including the part where you just leave the helm
hard to starboard when backing (counter intuitive)
and give short bursts of full power to “hop” the
stern to port. You back up with a scalloping path.

It works. I don’t fear docks near as much anymore.

---

Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1

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