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Crazily enough, the most difficult thing about single handing is keeping the chain in the locker from castle-ing up and jamming where it comes through. It means running down from the bow to the v berth and knocking the chain down, running back up to run the windlass, and repeating.
Has anyone else had an issue with this and found a solution?
Pearson 424 cutter - "Effie"
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I installed an 8 inch waterproof access plate in the anchor locker. When retrieving the chain I just reach in and knock down the castle. I have even been known to stick my foot in to give it a push. Just took a lot of nerve to cut that big of a hole in the boat but very happy with the results. Just make sure it is closed all the rest of the time.
Dale Longtin
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A system we use on Blue Pelican is a 10mm aluminium rod, with a looped handle that pokes down the hawser to knock down the pyramiding chain. After many years we still find this the most effective method. Our Lofrans Tigres windlass is mounted below deck in the windlass locker, and the rod is kept there. It length cut to just fit in that locker. The handle loop allows me to use a twist action, if needed. Generally I use it the last 40ft and say 15 ft. It is quick, effective and aluminium is easy on the equipment. I have done quite a bit of research to eliminate this from my anchoring process, but in reality have not found a better solution.
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http://www.tor.cc/articles/c-tip_6.htm
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Am I missing something here. I feel left out that I have never had this problem of castling chain. I use only 65 feet of G4 and the rest 3/4 twisted line.
My biggest frustration is the line tangling, but try to figure 8 it as it comes in and that takes care of the tangle. Of course, I also usually only anchor in approximately 10 feet of water. I use the original anchor locker without any alterations with a rebuilt, rebuilt, rebuilt Simpson Lawrence SeaWolf.
Charlie
OneEighty #54 -
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Attached is a pic of the anchor locker. The hatch is watertight, and once open, allows me to knock the chain around to prevent castling.
The main advantage is that it is all done from the bow whilst raising the anchor.
I have also fitted an auto-anchor that allows me to lower the anchor from the cockpit, and also monitor the length of chain deployed. The Maxwell winch comes fitted with a magnet in the gypsey and a hole for the sensor.
It is possible that if I change the angle of the tube that the chain can fall further back which may eliminate castling – future project.
Regards
Dennis
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Dennis – thanks for that pic. I just purchased Hull 81 and the horizontal windlass is aft of the locker, which I think is less than ideal. I was contemplating buying a new vertical windlass to fit forward of the locker but now that I see how yours is installed I will likely go that route. Any other suggestions other than angle the tube aft a bit more? What did you do to protect/prepare the bow area below the factory chain locker?Thanks, Ben (Papaya)
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Hi Ben,Below the standard chain locker – I did not do anything, and an area that needs some attention. Be careful when positioning the hatch so that the lid can open and remain open during the winching process. I have one hand on a remote whilst the other knocks the chain down.The choice of winch can be a challenge. I did consider mounting a vertical winch behind the locker but the Captain did not want any pipes etc in the forward cabin. One of the reasons I chose the horizontal winch was that the chain rolls off the back of the gypsy thus effectively moving the drop down point further aft, and the horizontal winch has the facility for rope winching. A facility of the Maxwell winch is that the standard chain gypsy can handle rope and chain whilst the other side does rope only (Great for winching oneself up the mast with a wifi remote LOL!. Just a whacky you-tube moment!Another option that I have been toying with is adding a stainless bash plate beneath the pipe in the chain locker so that the chain falls further aft. This may also reduce castling directly beneath the pipe.Whilst messing around in the locker – check that the water can drain out the chain locker (goes to the bilge so I believe). All the crud etc that comes up with the chain goes to the bottom of the locker where it builds up and blocks the drainage to the bilge. If this happens water can enter the forward cabin through the access hatch in the forepeak.I do have a washdown facility up front for washing the chain off which is a help.I had to add a thick aluminium plate below the winch as the deck is not strong in that area.There are a number of P424 windlass mounting options, and a search, or a look at the projects page, will also provide some ideas.Hope this helps.CheersDennis
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