- This topic has 11 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 9 years ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
Hey guys,
Back hunting down the dream. Found a 422 that happens to be in the right place and the right price. Report is moisture in the hull. Its an 82 production.My understanding is the 424 and 422 share a hull.
Has anyone heard or seen a 424 or 422 with a cored hull around the vintage of 82′? She supposedly has solid decks too… which sounds tantalizing. -
I’m pretty sure that the 422 and 424 share the same hull and are laid up from the same mold. I believe that the rudder and rudder skeg are cored with wood but the rest of the hull is solid layup. It’s common for water to penetrate the rudder skeg through the bronze shoe fasteners. If its salt-water I don’t think this is an issue. It’s also common to get water in the rudder. This may be more of a problem if it freezes and cracks the rudder.
I’m not aware of water penetration problems reported in the rest of the hull. Some amount of moisture is common in an old boat. Ask the surveyor if he things readings indicate a problem. The cure for this is to dry the hull out and apply a good barrier coat.
Decks are balsa cored. The core is laid up in vertical blocks. Water that enters the hull can slowly permeate an area of the deck but it usually doesn’t travel far from the source. This problem is common around the stanchions. The repair is straightforward and inexpensive. I’d be concerned if there is a large area of the deck that shows water but a few small areas around fittings is typical.
Rich – BlackSheep #47
—– Original Message —–
-
-
-
Tommy,
As Rich said, seawater in the skeg is not unusual. My boat’s skeg was actually leaking a little at the bottom, trying (in vain) to drain itself when the boat was hauled out. So I helped it by drilling holes high & low, port & starboard, and flaring them out with an angle grinder & padded sanding disc to expose the under-laminates. I left it opened up that way as long as we were on the hard, with heat lamps on it 24/7. When it was as dried out as possible I ‘glassed it closed again, finishing it with gelcoat (photo attached) and bottom paint. No problems since, and that was 9 years ago.
When you find your “deal” on one of these beauties, be aware that (1) you generally get what you pay for, and (2) they are all endless labors of love. Personally, if I were buying a 424 again knowing what I know, I wouldn’t be hunting for “neglected and cheap.” I’d pay a fair price for one from an owner who has already spent all the years and dollars to renovate, refit, improve and maintain her, someone like Rich or Pete Dubler… or me. 😉 In the long run you’ll wind up tens of thousands of dollars and several years ahead that way.
Good luck,
Tor
———————-
Silverheels, P-424 #17
——————
Attachments:
4676265779738783944.jpg
-
Bob knows what he’s talking about. We recently removed Discoverie’s deck fittings then bored out 3/4″ holes from the bottom (hopefully leaving the deck surface intact) and epoxied the holes to fix leaks. Most of the deck core is balsa, but plywood under the staysail and a few other places.Learned a good trick for drying out the voids we made before filling with epoxy. Use a heat gun and a remote IR thermometer. With the heat gun on the temp will stay less that 200 F as it dries. Once it dries, the temp starts to rapidly rise and that one is ready to seal. Then drill and replace the fixtures with non silicone sealer.
Roger
-
I have to agree, I paid a tad higher in the cost range of these old girls and still had to put many of “my hours” doing professional jobs for no pay. But my cash outward was very small. I am grateful the previous owner did all that he did. Some things he did not so much but all in all when I sell this boat someone's going to get a boat that needs not a lot of money, just a wallet full of love for maintenance and gadgets, if that's your thing.Ken
Taking what comes as I get it, using it all as much as I can and trying hard to leave all the shit behind.
-
Always appreciate the words of caution, and for what its worth, I head them.
I am, quiet honestly, looking for something that needs some work. I’m an engineer, and to be honest, I relish hours of mindless drone work.** Just got off the phone with the broker. **
Mind you, the boat was fully updated in 2009 and is now listed for 35k… so, this should be expected.
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1983/Pearson-422-Cutter-2928937/Charlevoix/MI/United-States#.VrJWa7IrK70Surveyors report
“the hull was sounded, mallet tap test, and is not in suitable condition on the port side. Dull Resonance and voids sounded, approximately a 6’x4′ area. On the port side, the moisture recordings were elevated to wet for approximately 18′ long x approximately 5′ and up to the bootstripe. Fairing compound non existing at the strut.In the engine bilge and bilges, voids sounded on the whetted surface to port and elevated moisture recordings”
Broker noted a through hull right in the middle of all of this mess that looks to be poorly repaired. I’m thinking that in combo with a barrier coat over the course of a decade could create this.
Wondering what the chances are of the voids that were sounded out not being de-laminations (see thermography idea below)
Would freeze thaw in Upper MI and MD promote de-lamination?I know that I could do flash thermography imaging on the port side… basically involves hitting the surface with a really strong halogen lamp then watching it cool with an infrared camera. Heat will dissipate slowly in front of a void. She’s thoroughly under priced, there is a possibility I could come out ok if i knew just how bad she was banged up.
-
That is a steal! A repower can run well over $20K and she has a new engine. Someone just spent some bucks on this. Photos show a lot of upgrades and improvements.
Struts on these things were not faired and the comment should be ignored. I’d speak to the surveyor and a local yard to get an estimate for the hull repair. Small voids are to be expected and are of no significance. I think there is a process for removing the gelcoat and letting the hull dry-out followed by new gelcoat. This requires special tools and skills. Your surveyor may know of a local yard that can handle this. Even if you dropped $20K into her, it may be well worth it. 422s are more expensive than 424s.
Take the boat out under power and see how she runs. If the engine replacement wasn’t done right she won’t go over 7kts and may vibrate a lot at cruising speed. Check the V-drive dipstick for water in the cases. The oil will look like chocolate milk if its leaking.
Rich
—– Original Message —–
-
-
-
I pealed the bottom of my 1084 422 to do an epoxy barrier coat. 100% the hull is balsa cored below the waterline. Also the deck is balsa cored.
If the core in the hull is wet then $35K might be too much. That large an area would be a huge job to repair.
A couple of years ago there was a 422 for sale (in TX if I recall) that was really cheap. I called the broker and got some information on the boat. He claimed ignorance but from the description and some of the work that had been done to the interior it seemed obvious to me that the boat had been full of water, one way or another.
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.