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Well, we’ve gotten ourselves into another fine bucket of worms. Left the dock today for a weekend cruise, noticing an abnormal noise emanating from the engine area. Decowled, and noticed nothing unusual. A bit later, the somewhat odd noise went into a very odd phase. We dropped anchor, decowled again, and looked more thoroughly. The noise sounded very rough, and emanated from the guts of the motor. The belt driven accessories seemed fine. Sailed the boat back to the slip, removed all the belts and ran the motor again. Same results, but worse and more immediate after engine start up. Sounds like metal on metal.
The engine is a pretty well cared for W58 with about 5500 hours. Oil changes have been regular and it has been a very fine running motor since we acquired the vessel about 18 months ago.
It looks like we’ll be facing a major decision: invest considerable money in the W58, or change engines. I’m no stranger to engine changes, as my mate and I changed the Yanmar on our Caliber 33 while on a cruise. A very accommodating yacht club.
So I guess what I’m asking is, which engines are typically used for repower (if it comes to that). I’m partial to the Yanmars, 4J something or other. I think cost of engine and trans is about $12K. Any reason I should look at another make?
David Tye
Blue Moon, #189 -
I repowered a few years agon and kept careful notes regarding the project. If you haven’t read the notes yet, I suggest you do so.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Once you open Pandora’s box, its hard to stop the process. A simple engine replacement leads to a new exhaust system, V-drive, prop-shaft, prop, fuel-tank, instrument cluster, wiring harness, etc. Even if you do the work yourself, you could be into more than twice your estimate. You might consider a rebuild swap, where they send you a rebuilt engine and you send them your engine for them to use as a core for the next rebuild. Some of the older Westerbekes are difficult to find parts for and therefore not candidates for a rebuild.
Hope this helps
Feel free to contact me for specific questions.
Rich – BlackSheep #47
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Sorry to hear about your engine problems.  No matter which way you go it will be a bite out of the budget.
If you haven’t picked up this bit of info already it might help in the decision making process.  The W58 is the exact same engine as the Perkins 4.154 series 200. Westerbeke added the external marine parts like the coolers and heat exchangers but the entire basic engine is a Perkins. If you decided to do a rebuild you can get all the internal parts: head gaskets, bearings, seals, pistons, rings,  etc. from a tractor or heavy equipment source for a fraction of what Westerbeke asks.
If you go new Yanmar is good.  I know several people that have repowered with Beta engines, a marine adapted Kubota tractor engine and all have been happy with the choice.Â
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If you’re not committed to spending lots of dabloons, consider getting a
hoist, do a short lift, drop the oil pan and pull the water pump. I had a
similar noise in an engine once. Turned out the pin in the oil pump had
dropped out and was bouncing around the crankcase. The fix was easy and
cheap.What other symptoms are you seeing? Smoke, oil pressure, etc?
On Sat, Aug 29, 2015 at 10:42 PM Skip MacElhannon via maillist <
> wrote:Quote:Sorry to hear about your engine problems. No matter which way you go it
will be a bite out of the budget.
If you haven’t picked up this bit of info already it might help in the
decision making process. The W58 is the exact same engine as the Perkins
4.154 series 200. Westerbeke added the external marine parts like the
coolers and heat exchangers but the entire basic engine is a Perkins. If
you decided to do a rebuild you can get all the internal parts: head
gaskets, bearings, seals, pistons, rings, etc. from a tractor or heavy
equipment source for a fraction of what Westerbeke asks.
If you go new Yanmar is good. I know several people that have repowered
with Beta engines, a marine adapted Kubota tractor engine and all have been
happy with the choice.Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Thank you Roger, Skip, and Rich for your comments and ideas.
Roger, the ‘other symptoms’ are a bit strange. Oil pressure, water/temp appear normal. But when the severe noise commences, the engine emits crankcase oil fumes and some smoke eminates from nowhere in particular but the engine area in general. Frankly, the racket is pretty frightening, so I’ve shut it down pretty quickly without careful observation of RPM, etc.. When this problem first started (yesterday), the engine would run more or less OK, but with a strange sound, then it would suddenly emit the metal on metal grinding noise, and oil fumes and smoke would eminate from the general engine area, followed by me shutting it down quickly. I troubleshot the problem superficially, and in the process would start the motor to ‘check’, and found that the period of ‘normal’ operation became shorter and shorter with each restart, to the point that now the racket occurs pretty much immediately upon ignition.Rich, I enjoyed reading your very comprehensive description of your repower. Very nice installation. I have inquired of Mastry regarding pricing for the 4JH57(57HP, Common rail injection, tier 3 emissions) and the 4JH5E(53HP, standard mechanical direct injection, I think, and tier 2 emissions). It appears both engines are currently available, new, and both come with 125amp alternators standard, and serpentine belt drive. Several questions that I had about the repower were answered for me as I read your account. Most notably, how to handle the backwards exhaust thing. I liked your sacrificial tool you built to bend the exhaust hose. A few questions came to mind as well. As we consider a fuel tank swap, it seems on the surface that perhaps now is the time to do this, even though ours is not leaking. I’m wondering how much to expect to spend on the tank itself. I can contact the company for which you supplied the contact info, and get some current info. Wondering too, if you would still go with the VD transmission, given the work involved. I know yours was recently overhauled, whereas mine is probably suspect. I don’t want to mess with the V-drive gear ratios, since ours is nearly new, replaced by the previous owner. I’ll have to examine normal cruising RPMs for the W58 vice the prospective replacement to determine what transmission ratio to shoot for. Frankly, I don’t know how many RPM I’m turning with the W58 because the tach is inaccurate, though consistent. I read 3000 RPM to cruise about 6 knots, but suspect I’m really turning about 2400 RPM. I think most Yanmars want about 2600-3200 RPM, consistent with my experience with the 3GM/3YM.
Anyway, more to follow as we figure out what we’re going to do…
David
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Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Engine troubles
SP sheet metal company
Right around 800 bucks
Did mine last summer.
Easy people to deal with.
Measure tank carefully once you get it out.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Aug 30, 2015, at 2:57 PM, typhoontye via maillist wrote:
Thank you Roger, Skip, and Rich for your comments and ideas.
Roger, the ‘other symptoms’ are a bit strange. Oil pressure, water/temp appear normal. But when the severe noise commences, the engine emits crankcase oil fumes and some smoke eminates from nowhere in particular but the engine area in general. Frankly, the racket is pretty frightening, so I’ve shut it down pretty quickly without careful observation of RPM, etc.. When this problem first started (yesterday), the engine would run more or less OK, but with a strange sound, then it would suddenly emit the metal on metal grinding noise, and oil fumes and smoke would eminate from the general engine area, followed by me shutting it down quickly. I troubleshot the problem superficially, and in the process would start the motor to ‘check’, and found that the period of ‘normal’ operation became shorter and shorter with each restart, to the point that now the racket occurs pretty much immediately upon ignition.Rich, I enjoyed reading your very comprehensive description of your repower. Very nice installation. I have inquired of Mastry regarding pricing for the 4JH57(57HP, Common rail injection, tier 3 emissions) and the 4JH5E(53HP, standard mechanical direct injection, I think, and tier 2 emissions). It appears both engines are currently available, new, and both come with 125amp alternators standard, and serpentine belt drive. Several questions that I had about the repower were answered for me as I read your account. Most notably, how to handle the backwards exhaust thing. I liked your sacrificial tool you built to bend the exhaust hose. A few questions came to mind as well. As we consider a fuel tank swap, it seems on the surface that perhaps now is the time to do this, even though ours is not leaking. I’m wondering how much to expect to spend on the tank itself. I can contact the company for which you supplied the contact info, and get some current info. Wondering too, if you would still go with the VD transmission, given the work involved. I know yours was recently overhauled, whereas mine is probably suspect. I don’t want to mess with the V-drive gear ratios, since ours is nearly new, replaced by the previous owner. I’ll have to examine normal cruising RPMs for the W58 vice the prospective replacement to determine what transmission ratio to shoot for. Frankly, I don’t know how many RPM I’m turning with the W58 because the tach is inaccurate, though consistent. I read 3000 RPM to cruise about 6 knots, but suspect I’m really turning about 2400 RPM. I think most Yanmars want about 2600-3200 RPM, consistent with my experience with the 3GM/3YM.
Anyway, more to follow as we figure out what we’re going to do…
David
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Sent from Outlook
On Sun, Aug 30, 2015 at 11:57 AM -0700, “typhoontye via maillist” wrote:
Thank you Roger, Skip, and Rich for your comments and ideas.
Roger, the ‘other symptoms’ are a bit strange. Oil pressure, water/temp appear normal. But when the severe noise commences, the engine emits crankcase oil fumes and some smoke eminates from nowhere in particular but the engine area in general. Frankly, the racket is pretty frightening, so I’ve shut it down pretty quickly without careful observation of RPM, etc.. When this problem first started (yesterday), the engine would run more or less OK, but with a strange sound, then it would suddenly emit the metal on metal grinding noise, and oil fumes and smoke would eminate from the general engine area, followed by me shutting it down quickly. I troubleshot the problem superficially, and in the process would start the motor to ‘check’, and found that the period of ‘normal’ operation became shorter and shorter with each restart, to the point that now the racket occurs pretty much immediately upon ignition.Rich, I enjoyed reading your very comprehensive description of your repower. Very nice installation. I have inquired of Mastry regarding pricing for the 4JH57(57HP, Common rail injection, tier 3 emissions) and the 4JH5E(53HP, standard mechanical direct injection, I think, and tier 2 emissions). It appears both engines are currently available, new, and both come with 125amp alternators standard, and serpentine belt drive. Several questions that I had about the repower were answered for me as I read your account. Most notably, how to handle the backwards exhaust thing. I liked your sacrificial tool you built to bend the exhaust hose. A few questions came to mind as well. As we consider a fuel tank swap, it seems on the surface that perhaps now is the time to do this, even though ours is not leaking. I’m wondering how much to expect to spend on the tank itself. I can contact the company for which you supplied the contact info, and get some current info. Wondering too, if you would still go with the VD transmission, given the work involved. I know yours was recently overhauled, whereas mine is probably suspect. I don’t want to mess with the V-drive gear ratios, since ours is nearly new, replaced by the previous owner. I’ll have to examine normal cruising RPMs for the W58 vice the prospective replacement to determine what transmission ratio to shoot for. Frankly, I don’t know how many RPM I’m turning with the W58 because the tach is inaccurate, though consistent. I read 3000 RPM to cruise about 6 knots, but suspect I’m really turning about 2400 RPM. I think most Yanmars want about 2600-3200 RPM, consistent with my experience with the 3GM/3YM.
Anyway, more to follow as we figure out what we’re going to do…
David
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DavidThere is a spreadsheet attachment that breaks down total cost. Â In there you should find the cost for the fuel tank. Â As for transmission, it is really part of the propeller/gear ratio trade-off. Â These newer engines typically turn faster than the older generation. Â You may be better off with a transmission that has a gear reduction. Â Then you may need a new propeller to optimize the new shaft speed.
You might consider pulling your starter. Â If the bendix failed, you could have parts spinning around your flywheel. Â It could also be your damper plate. Â Pulling your transmission is pretty easy once you’ve done it once. Â It’s heavy but can be lifted right out the hatch.
If you can get a rebuild done on an exchange, I think it would be the most economical solution. Â Rebuilds go for somewhere around $5k..$8k. Â If I had it to do over again, I’d still go with the 75hp engine. Â Fuel consuption is about the same as the non-turbo model and the extra power is there when I want it. Â You’ll definately need to do something about gear reduction that way though because the more powerful engine turns much faster, 3800 RPM. Â I love cruising at 7kts with the throttle only about half way up. Â I guess I’m spoiled now.Rich
On Sun, Aug 30, 2015 at 11:57 AM -0700, “typhoontye via maillist” wrote:
Thank you Roger, Skip, and Rich for your comments and ideas.
Roger, the ‘other symptoms’ are a bit strange. Oil pressure, water/temp appear normal. But when the severe noise commences, the engine emits crankcase oil fumes and some smoke eminates from nowhere in particular but the engine area in general. Frankly, the racket is pretty frightening, so I’ve shut it down pretty quickly without careful observation of RPM, etc.. When this problem first started (yesterday), the engine would run more or less OK, but with a strange sound, then it would suddenly emit the metal on metal grinding noise, and oil fumes and smoke would eminate from the general engine area, followed by me shutting it down quickly. I troubleshot the problem superficially, and in the process would start the motor to ‘check’, and found that the period of ‘normal’ operation became shorter and shorter with each restart, to the point that now the racket occurs pretty much immediately upon ignition.Rich, I enjoyed reading your very comprehensive description of your repower. Very nice installation. I have inquired of Mastry regarding pricing for the 4JH57(57HP, Common rail injection, tier 3 emissions) and the 4JH5E(53HP, standard mechanical direct injection, I think, and tier 2 emissions). It appears both engines are currently available, new, and both come with 125amp alternators standard, and serpentine belt drive. Several questions that I had about the repower were answered for me as I read your account. Most notably, how to handle the backwards exhaust thing. I liked your sacrificial tool you built to bend the exhaust hose. A few questions came to mind as well. As we consider a fuel tank swap, it seems on the surface that perhaps now is the time to do this, even though ours is not leaking. I’m wondering how much to expect to spend on the tank itself. I can contact the company for which you supplied the contact info, and get some current info. Wondering too, if you would still go with the VD transmission, given the work involved. I know yours was recently overhauled, whereas mine is probably suspect. I don’t want to mess with the V-drive gear ratios, since ours is nearly new, replaced by the previous owner. I’ll have to examine normal cruising RPMs for the W58 vice the prospective replacement to determine what transmission ratio to shoot for. Frankly, I don’t know how many RPM I’m turning with the W58 because the tach is inaccurate, though consistent. I read 3000 RPM to cruise about 6 knots, but suspect I’m really turning about 2400 RPM. I think most Yanmars want about 2600-3200 RPM, consistent with my experience with the 3GM/3YM.
Anyway, more to follow as we figure out what we’re going to do…
David
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Hi David. Sorry to hear about your engine. Last time we e mailed it was about AC, which I am still working on. I’ll chime in with my 2 cents worth of advice regarding w58. I had a W60 in my Hull #31 1978 which had been rebuilt when I bought the boat in 1999. After about 5 years I was replacing parts on every cruise. Got to the point where I was spending a lot of money on an obsolete engine that was getting really hard to find parts for. 7 years ago while in the Bahamas it started making a lot more noise. On return from that cruise back to Ft Lauderdale I found a mechanic I liked who would do a replacement for me. I had looked at the Kubota which is martinized by Phasor in Pompano, not far from my home base. I know the W58 is a different engine than my old W60. The Kubota 60 was an almost exact replacement regarding torque and RPM for the W60. I wanted a slower turning engine than the Yanmar. When the mechanic took the old engine out he said my damper plate was totally shot. He couldn’t believe I made it up the river! All the springs had let go, so that was my noise. I love my Kubota. Might not be as easy to replace with a Kubota for you since you are up in the NE somewhere. I wrote several articles in the forum back in June- sept 2009 about the installation. If you are interested in my installation I can tell you more. Regards and good luck, Cindy
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Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Engine troubles
Hi David. Sorry to hear about your engine. Last time we e mailed it was about AC, which I am still working on. I’ll chime in with my 2 cents worth of advice regarding w58. I had a W60 in my Hull #31 1978 which had been rebuilt when I bought the boat in 1999. After about 5 years I was replacing parts on every cruise. Got to the point where I was spending a lot of money on an obsolete engine that was getting really hard to find parts for. 7 years ago while in the Bahamas it started making a lot more noise. On return from that cruise back to Ft Lauderdale I found a mechanic I liked who would do a replacement for me. I had looked at the Kubota which is martinized by Phasor in Pompano, not far from my home base. I know the W58 is a different engine than my old W60. The Kubota 60 was an almost exact replacement regarding torque and RPM for the W60. I wanted a slower turning engine than the Yanmar. When the mechanic took the old engine out he said my damper plate was totally shot. He couldn’t believe I made it up the river! All the springs had let go, so that was my noise. I love my Kubota. Might not be as easy to replace with a Kubota for you since you are up in the NE somewhere. I wrote several articles in the forum back in June- sept 2009 about the installation. If you are interested in my installation I can tell you more. Regards and good luck, Cindy
Island Bound 424 #31
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Hi David, I just checked your web site and found I was mistaken in where you live. Since you are in NW Florida and not New England the Kubota martinized by Phasor in Pompano might work for you. It’s a slower turning engine than the Yanmar and also naturally aspirated. The Beta people call it a Beta 60. My mechanic who did the installation knew Martin who does the marinization for Phasor. This helped a lot as we went to the factory several times to check on the progress of my new engine. Martin welded new supports to fit my stringers. I am sure he remembers my installation so he would be familiar with your boat. Regards, Cindy
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Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Engine troubles
Hi David, I just checked your web site and found I was mistaken in where you live. Since you are in NW Florida and not New England the Kubota martinized by Phasor in Pompano might work for you. It’s a slower turning engine than the Yanmar and also naturally aspirated. The Beta people call it a Beta 60. My mechanic who did the installation knew Martin who does the marinization for Phasor. This helped a lot as we went to the factory several times to check on the progress of my new engine. Martin welded new supports to fit my stringers. I am sure he remembers my installation so he would be familiar with your boat. Regards, Cindy
Island Bound 424 #31
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Thanks to all of you for your ideas. This discussion has been very helpful in determining a rational course of action. I concur that the starter/ring gear/bell housing area needs to be examined before taking more drastic action. So, I will remove the transmission next week and have a look see. If I see nothing suspicious, I’ll pull the engine out with our club hoist, pickup truck it to the house, and borrow my friends engine hoist to put it on our engine stand. Then tear into it to see what I can see. I haven’t torn down a diesel before, but have rebuilt a number of gas powered engines. If it looks like I can deal with it at a reasonable cost, maybe we’ll go that direction. If not, we won’t have wasted dollars in the investigation phase, and will feel better about investing in a repower.
Cindy, I may ask you more questions about your Kubota if I decide to take that route. We should consider all alternatives. Thanks for being willing to share details.
Thanks Alan and Ken for the fuel tank info. It sounds prudent to examine my tank before purchasing new. As mine is not leaking presently, maybe it’s in reasonably good shape. But I think it’s worth tearing into to verify if we pull the engine.
The initial shock of hearing our motor apparently coming apart has worn off, and I feel better now that we have an immediate course of action. Thanks to you all…I’ll keep you posted!
David
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Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Engine troubles
When the noise starts, does it get worse with more rpm’s? Does it start when you reach a certain rpm’! Does it go away after a certain rpms?
Does it sound different when in gear, or when you increase the rpms in gear?
Sometimes a little diagnostic work before you pull it and won’t be able to start it again might help.
If you decide to pull the transmission, let me know. I have had mine out a few times and we should talk. Easier to chat via voice than email.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Aug 30, 2015, at 7:42 PM, typhoontye via maillist wrote:
Thanks to all of you for your ideas. This discussion has been very helpful in determining a rational course of action. I concur that the starter/ring gear/bell housing area needs to be examined before taking more drastic action. So, I will remove the transmission next week and have a look see. If I see nothing suspicious, I’ll pull the engine out with our club hoist, pickup truck it to the house, and borrow my friends engine hoist to put it on our engine stand. Then tear into it to see what I can see. I haven’t torn down a diesel before, but have rebuilt a number of gas powered engines. If it looks like I can deal with it at a reasonable cost, maybe we’ll go that direction. If not, we won’t have wasted dollars in the investigation phase, and will feel better about investing in a repower.
Cindy, I may ask you more questions about your Kubota if I decide to take that route. We should consider all alternatives. Thanks for being willing to share details.
Thanks Alan and Ken for the fuel tank info. It sounds prudent to examine my tank before purchasing new. As mine is not leaking presently, maybe it’s in reasonably good shape. But I think it’s worth tearing into to verify if we pull the engine.
The initial shock of hearing our motor apparently coming apart has worn off, and I feel better now that we have an immediate course of action. Thanks to you all…I’ll keep you posted!
David
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David,
One of the first things I did when I got Silverheels was replace the old
Westerbeke, even though it was still running strong. I’m just not enough of
a mechanic to be nursing such an ancient beast while cruising. I posted it
on Craig’s List while it was still in the boat. Some guy came by to hear it
run, gave me a deposit, and was standing by with his pickup truck to receive
it when it came out. Doesn’t sound like you’ll have that happening, but I’m
sure you can get something for yours for parts.Like you, I was predisposed to Yanmars, having enjoyed years of flawless
performance from one on my last cruising boat. I went with a the 4JHE 54 HP
and have been 100% happy with it these past 8 years. Of course, there are
other equally good choices, which I’m sure you’ll hear about from the owners
here who have installed them. As far as I know, they all do the job.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hello all,
Well, the bottom line is, this is a dampener/drive plate issue. That is good news. Here’s how I got there:
I removed the drive shaft this morning in preparation to remove the transmission. I turned the output shaft of the transmission, and heard a metallic scraping noise. Didn’t think much of it, since when I had the drive shaft out several months ago to facilitate my Shaft-Lok install, it made the same noise. I thought to myself at the time, ‘I don’t like that sound but it must be normal since the transmission works fine’. Anyway, started removing transmission oil lines, when something Alan said struck a chord. This might be my last chance to start the engine for troubleshooting purposes. So I started the motor…it immediately made the same noises. I pushed the throttle up, watching oil pressure, and there was a slight ‘snap’ noise, then the abnormal racket went away. The engine sounded normal. I put it in gear, then went to see the transmission output flange turn, and you guessed it, it wasn’t turning. Nothing I could do would make it turn. Checked fluid, and it was fine. So removed the transmission (had to hoist the engine to get the bottom two transmission mount bolts), and the first thing I saw was what looked like pressure plate springs (five each) lying in the bottom of the bell housing area. I also noted damage to some other rotating components, apparently the remains of the drive plate. I took the transmission to my local Westerbeke guy, and he immediately recognized the problem. He’ll get me the new drive plate, and I asked him to go through the transmission as well. Probably $800-$1000.
Thanks to all for helping me think this problem out. Hopefully I can return the favor at some point. This is a great bulletin board with great members!
David
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Glad to hear. That’s only eight or ten boat bucks. ðŸ˜
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Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Engine troubles
David,
The stock drive/damper plate from westerbeke does not quite work. At low RPM’s and up until about 1200 RPM there is quite a metallic racket is about all I can describe it as. both John Stevenson and I had issues with that. I don’t remember how John south his problem. I solved my problem by buying the PYI drive damper and that immediately cure the noise. That’s the reason I had my transmission out so many times when I was in Virginia.
I’ll see if I can locate the invoice and some other information about that PYI drive damper.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Aug 31, 2015, at 6:41 PM, typhoontye via maillist wrote:
Hello all,
Well, the bottom line is, this is a dampener/drive plate issue. That is good news. Here’s how I got there:
I removed the drive shaft this morning in preparation to remove the transmission. I turned the output shaft of the transmission, and heard a metallic scraping noise. Didn’t think much of it, since when I had the drive shaft out several months ago to facilitate my Shaft-Lok install, it made the same noise. I thought to myself at the time, ‘I don’t like that sound but it must be normal since the transmission works fine’. Anyway, started removing transmission oil lines, when something Alan said struck a chord. This might be my last chance to start the engine for troubleshooting purposes. So I started the motor…it immediately made the same noises. I pushed the throttle up, watching oil pressure, and there was a slight ‘snap’ noise, then the abnormal racket went away. The engine sounded normal. I put it in gear, then went to see the transmission output flange turn, and you guessed it, it wasn’t turning. Nothing I could do would make it turn. Checked fluid, and it was fine. So removed the transmission (had to hoist the engine to get the bottom two transmission mount bolts), and the first thing I saw was what looked like pressure plate springs (five each) lying in the bottom of the bell housing area. I also noted damage to some other rotating components, apparently the remains of the drive plate. I took the transmission to my local Westerbeke guy, and he immediately recognized the problem. He’ll get me the new drive plate, and I asked him to go through the transmission as well. Probably $800-$1000.
Thanks to all for helping me think this problem out. Hopefully I can return the favor at some point. This is a great bulletin board with great members!
David
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Good news RE your engine.
BTW: My local Westerbeke dealer is just north of Boston. I wouldn’t bring my transmission there for service. I’d bring it to a transmission shop.
Rich
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Here’s the follow up: Transmission was gone through by my local Westerbeke dealer. They changed out clutch plates, which were coming apart, and some broken springs. Cleaned it up, new seals and gaskets, painted it, and $1275 later its mine again. They also provided a new drive/dampener plate. Cost was about $75.
Since I only found 5 springs from the drive plate in the bottom of the bell housing when I first took it apart, and later surmised there should be six, I went hunting for the sixth. Found it wedged between the bell housing and the flywheel at the 12 o’clock position. It took three hours over two sessions to dislodge it, but finally got it out.
Installed all, and the engine and trans are running very well. No rattles. We plan to go out on an overnighter on Monday, and hopefully all will go well. Pretty sure we’ve successfully dealt with this problem.
Thanks to all for the help! Great discussion.
David
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Great news! Have a terrific time! Not too bad a cost, either.
Bob
On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 7:56 AM, typhoontye via maillist <
> wrote:Here’s the follow up: Transmission was gone through by my local
Westerbeke dealer. They changed out clutch plates, which were coming
apart, and some broken springs. Cleaned it up, new seals and gaskets,
painted it, and $1275 later its mine again. They also provided a new
drive/dampener plate. Cost was about $75.Since I only found 5 springs from the drive plate in the bottom of the
bell housing when I first took it apart, and later surmised there should be
six, I went hunting for the sixth. Found it wedged between the bell
housing and the flywheel at the 12 o’clock position. It took three hours
over two sessions to dislodge it, but finally got it out.Installed all, and the engine and trans are running very well. No
rattles. We plan to go out on an overnighter on Monday, and hopefully all
will go well. Pretty sure we’ve successfully dealt with this problem.Thanks to all for the help! Great discussion.
David
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Excellent news! very glad to hear the problem didn’t require the expense of repowering.
Discoverie has a W58 and I figured it would need work so I bought a working spare engine for $1k. At least it would be good for parts. At this point I’ve pulled the starter, alternator and water pump from the spare. Alternator is in good shape and starter was rebuilt.
Has anyone rebuilt a W58 water pump?
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Fresh or raw water pump. Raw water pump, yes. Fresh, no.
On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 8:45 AM, Discoverie via maillist <
> wrote:Excellent news! very glad to hear the problem didn’t require the expense
of repowering.Discoverie has a W58 and I figured it would need work so I bought a
working spare engine for $1k. At least it would be good for parts. At this
point I’ve pulled the starter, alternator and water pump from the spare.
Alternator is in good shape and starter was rebuilt.Has anyone rebuilt a W58 water pump?
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maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Whiffler has a 6 gallon black water holding tank in the upper section of the bildge below the table location. A 6 gal tank is near worthless. Where else can I install a substantial black water tank with some capacity? Any other options?
Steve
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Original message
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Had an 18 gallon under the sole under the table, what a fricken mess of
hoses and stink. Took it ALL out and built a composting head. No plumbing
whatsoever. But just in case the wife didn’t like, I figured I could fit
that 18 gal under the counter right next to the actual head. It would sit
as low as possible leaving very short plumbing runs that would be easily
accessed from the top, side and the forward hanging locker. I was thinking
there might still be a decent storage space on top of a removable shelf
too. If you cut away most of the bulkhead next to the head and some in the
hanging locker you should have plenty of room to fit something in there.
You could even use some of the space low down in the hanging locker. Best
quality tank and hoses recommended.ken
On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 9:25 AM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D. via maillist <
> wrote:Quote:Whiffler has a 6 gallon black water holding tank in the upper section of
the bildge below the table location. A 6 gal tank is near worthless. Where
else can I install a substantial black water tank with some capacity? Any
other options?Steve
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
Original message
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