Deck Delamination

[typhoontye]

Hello all,

This is to update you on my deck ‘rebuild’ efforts. You may remember I rebuilt all the stanchion bases…took out all the core in the vicinity of the stanchion bases and rebuilt with solid biax fiberglass to the deck level. The core was wet (soaking) on one stanchion base, found dry rot on several others, and the remainder were much more sound than I expected. Project completed.

I moved on to the cabin top, where I wanted to correct what I considered excessive flexing (in one area in particular) and ‘crackling’ under foot (on most of the cabin top). My assumption was that the core was wet or otherwise compromised. I picked the area of flex to start: Port side, from the edge of the deck house to the opening of the forward companionway. Size of the repair was 48″X32″.

I cut through the outer skin with a Rockwell SonicCrafter equipped with a semi-circular blade. This process went fine. The SonicCrafter is a good tool…I have the most powerful version. The next step did not go well. I hoped to remove the outer skin and save it to re-install later. Turns out it was very well adhered. After many hours with a 20 oz hammer and a flat bar, I managed to remove the skin and the balsa core. The balsa core was in remarkably good shape (and is much tougher than I imagined), confirming core samples I had taken earlier. I can’t figure why the deck was flexing so much. I weigh 165 lbs, so it isn’t my weight. Anyway, the inner (lower) skin was deformed by so much tool work, in some cases protruding into the cabin space by 1/4″. Next step was to install the Divinicell (takes the place of the balsa core). Sadly, I selected 3/8″ Divinicell, based on the core size on the side decks. However, half inch balsa core was used on the cabin top. I had meant to double check this prior to ordering the material, but screwed the pooch on this one. I pressed on with the 3/8″ material with the intention of making up the difference with biax. But…since the lower skin was not consistent and fair, I had to weight the Divinicell more than I should have had to, to make it conform and adhere. So I created a challenge on the top side to make the deck appear ‘fair’. After some effort, the repair looks very good on the top side, and once I apply the non-skid, I believe it will be invisible to the eye.

The repaired area does not flex, so I count that as a success. The remainder of the deck is pretty solid, so I don’t intend to carry this process any further. I did take core samples, and the remainder of the deck core is dry. I also found that plywood core was used in the vicinity of the main mast. I am still bothered by the ‘crackling’ sound I hear when walking on the deck, particularly in the morning, but am now convinced it isn’t structural. I believe it may be caused by the different expansion properties of the fiberglass deck and the plywood ‘batts’ that are screwed to the underside of the deck that serve as the mounting surface for the headliner. Way in the future, I’ll replace the headliner (original), and at that time I’ll bond the plywood batts to the underside of the deck with thickened epoxy. Hopefully that will quiet things down.

Anyhow, just wanted to let you know how this went, and if you have any questions just ask. I’ve also filled most of the gelcoat cracks on the deck surfaces, and next step is to spray Awlcraft and apply non-skid.

David
Blue Moon, #189

[skipmac]

Hi David,

What do you plan to use for the non skid?

[typhoontye]

I’m sorta’ intrigued by Kiwigrip.  It’s water based and has good reviews for effectiveness and longevity. The non-skid feature of this product is applied by a textured roller, as opposed to an aggregate in the paint itself.  But…my wife favors a Pettit product, which also has good reviews.  I suspect we will apply the Pettit product.  But the Awlcraft will go on first.

 

 

 

[jeffsivorigmail-com]

I have had good luck with Kiwi grip. I used it on the cockpit sole of another boat I have, its at least 6 years old of constant use and exposure to the elements, with no trouble so far.

[dale l]

I used the kiwigrip and have been very happy with it.  It is very easy to touch up if needed. As a liveaboard, cruising to the Bahamas and east coast, the deck takes a beating but it holds up very well.   The only thing I would have done differently would be to use a less aggressive roller then what they recommend.

[skipmac]

jeffsivorigmail-com wrote:

I have had good luck with Kiwi grip. I used it on the cockpit sole of another boat I have, its at least 6 years old of constant use and exposure to the elements, with no trouble so far.

Two questions about Kiwigrip. I saw a comment from one boater that used it who said it was a bit difficult to keep clean. Basically the texture created a lot of tiny cracks and crevices that captured dirt and was hard to get out without aggressive scrubbing with some kind of bristled brush.

Also, I’ve used a similar product at home to give texture to a wall paint and I found it really difficult to keep a consistent texture across a surface, especially around any edges where I have to trim in or can’t get a nice, long stroke with the roller.

So how’s your experience with these issues?

[jeffsivorigmail-com]

Kiwi grip goes on with a trowel. It looks a lot more like paste or mastic than paint. One then rolls a specific roller on it. I used what looks like a 4 inch roller and had no real problems getting the texture right. You tape the section off, trowel it on, roll it, and immediately pull off the tape. The directions suggest a second coat, thinned out some, if you want less aggressive non-skid.

I hose out the bottom of my cockpit and that typically takes care of it. I have used a boat brush to scrub it some in the past; it did not see that onerous.

[skipmac]

jeffsivorigmail-com wrote:

Kiwi grip goes on with a trowel. It looks a lot more like paste or mastic than paint. One then rolls a specific roller on it. I used what looks like a 4 inch roller and had no real problems getting the texture right. You tape the section off, trowel it on, roll it, and immediately pull off the tape. The directions suggest a second coat, thinned out some, if you want less aggressive non-skid.

I hose out the bottom of my cockpit and that typically takes care of it. I have used a boat brush to scrub it some in the past; it did not see that onerous.

Thanks. Appreciate the information. Think I will have to give it a try.

Skip

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