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Hi Dan,
You can flush with any product that doesn’t harm aluminum. The drain plug
is on the starboard side of the engine just forward of the dip stick, I
think. Draining the engine isn’t all that complicated, but be sure you
drain the water heater (and fill it) separately or you’ll be with no hot
water and with an overheating engine. Also, make sure that the engine is
totally full, including the thermostat housing. Sadly, the way it’s
mounted, the thermostat is higher than the vent valve in the expansion
tank, meaning you can get an air bubble there and the associated
overheating (within minutes of starting the engine). How do I know?
Experience….Bob
On Thu, Oct 11, 2012 at 9:48 AM, kalinowski wrote:
I’d like to flush out the cooling system on my W 58. Has anyone done
this? What product did you use? Where are the drain plugs on the W 58
located?Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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That’s an interesting question. I ended up having to remove the housing (2
bolts easy to get to) and filling the antifreeze into the water pump.
Basically, your engine should take 2 or a little more gallons of
antifreeze, and if you can’t get it in using the fill and run method, that
was the only way I could figure out how to do it. You may not have the
problem at all – I did. But if you do, you know how to deal with it.Bob
On Thu, Oct 11, 2012 at 11:26 AM, kalinowski wrote:
Bob: thanks for the tip. By the way, how do you get the air bubble out
of the thermostat housing?Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Our W-58 has a petcock on the side of the upper t-stat housing to vent air. Absent that, you might try loosening the clamp on the “L” shaped hose between t-stst housing and exhaust manifold. We also have an overflow tank in the port cockpit locker that is teed off the hoses to the hot water heater.
Quent -
Even better! I wish I had that.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 11, 2012 4:54 PM, “quent” wrote:Our W-58 has a petcock on the side of the upper t-stat housing to vent
air. Absent that, you might try loosening the clamp on the “L” shaped hose
between t-stst housing and exhaust manifold. We also have an overflow tank
in the port cockpit locker that is teed off the hoses to the hot water
heater.
Quent_______________________________________________
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You may have this and I only say that because I didn’t know it till the
guys on the list taught me.The petcocks look like thin pieces of metal with a pressed end. They don’t
look like much at all to be honest and I had no idea what they were till
something similar came up on the list.
They vent air (or whatever the fluid is there).-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
W7PEAOn Thu, Oct 11, 2012 at 4:55 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Even better! I wish I had that.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 11, 2012 4:54 PM, “quent” wrote:Our W-58 has a petcock on the side of the upper t-stat housing to vent
air. Absent that, you might try loosening the clamp on the “L” shapedhose
between t-stst housing and exhaust manifold. We also have an overflow
tank
in the port cockpit locker that is teed off the hoses to the hot water
heater.
Quent_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Based upon the comments here, it would seem to make sense to have a bleed valve installed on the top of the thermostat housing. I’m thinking of one shaped like a wing nut that can be hand tightened. Would the engine block coolant drain plug be part #11 on page 200 of the W 58 parts manual?
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko olina, O’ahu -
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Except on the w58. Right to tight, left to loose.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 11, 2012 7:40 PM, “quent” wrote:Just a quick note: The petcock with the opening between the two handle
wings typically opens by screwing in, not out.
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one note on the antifreeze to be used. Westerbeke recommends using the
Prestone Extended life coolant now. If you are replacing another type of
coolant, like the green coolant that we used to use, you need to be sure and
get all the old coolant out of the engine before adding the new extended
life. They were insistent that it is a bad idea to mix the two types of
coolant!So, best to drain coolant by pulling the hoses off the bottom of the main
heat exchanger, and also remove the engine block plug, which is on the right
side of the W 58, but the port side of the boat. then place a hose and
flush with fresh water. this will ensure you get all the old antifreeze
out. then fill witht the new extended life. then deal with the air lock
problem we all have!!Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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In an effort to be green, I installed the West Marine stuff, I forget the
name last year (serves me right for fixing things not broken, as there’s
plenty of broken stuff to deal with). Oh, wait, I did it because I had to
replace the water heater. Anyway, flush and fill the water heater
separately. Really important. If you have a compressor available, use it
to blow out the water heater after flushing.That’s all I have to say about that. It sounds far more complicated than
it really is.Bob
On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 7:48 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Quote:one note on the antifreeze to be used. Westerbeke recommends using the
Prestone Extended life coolant now. If you are replacing another type of
coolant, like the green coolant that we used to use, you need to be sure
and get all the old coolant out of the engine before adding the new
extended life. They were insistent that it is a bad idea to mix the two
types of coolant!So, best to drain coolant by pulling the hoses off the bottom of the main
heat exchanger, and also remove the engine block plug, which is on the
right side of the W 58, but the port side of the boat. then place a hose
and flush with fresh water. this will ensure you get all the old
antifreeze out. then fill witht the new extended life. then deal with the
air lock problem we all have!!Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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Easy, just pull both hoses and fill one until water comes out the other
then reconnect. Should take a bit more than a quart, maybe a quart and a
half.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 13, 2012 8:38 AM, “kalinowski” wrote:Thanks for the tips! It’s great to have this resource for a 32 year old
boat. I’ll have to check on where to fill the water heater.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
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Charlie,
Yes, I usually had an airlock problem with my W60 when flushing the
coolant. Almost always it was in the hoses going to the water heater. I
disconnected the hoses and poured antifreeze into one hose until it was
flowing out of the other hose, then reconnected the hoses to the engine.
That always fixed the problem.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Oct 16, 2012 at 11:18 AM, cstewart wrote:
Is there any reason to believe I wouldn’t have this same air-lock problem
inherent in the W60? I need to refresh my antifreeze but don’t want to
invent any problems that I don’t already have.Charlie
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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I have a Yanmar, but I’m wondering… I changed the antifreeze last
spring just before I stored the boat for the summer. Then I only ran it
for a few minutes to move to the haul-out slip. Seemed fine doing that.
How does one know one has an air lock in the engine’s cooling system.
What is the symptom?I’m not being terse. I’m being curious.
🙂
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An airlock will result in overheating within 5 minutes. As far as the
engine knows, there’s no water in it (not true, but thats how it appears to
instruments and sensors). If it didn’t happen then, then when you leave
next time, make sure your sails are uncovered and your anchor’s ready!Or, just run the engine for 10-15 minutes and allow it to come up to temp.
Bob
On Wed, Oct 17, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I have a Yanmar, but I’m wondering… I changed the antifreeze last
spring just before I stored the boat for the summer. Then I only ran it
for a few minutes to move to the haul-out slip. Seemed fine doing that.
How does one know one has an air lock in the engine’s cooling system.
What is the symptom?I’m not being terse. I’m being curious.
🙂
Quote:
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Glad I asked. Thanks.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Funny story. I changed my coolant last fall when I winterized. Ran engine
at dock for a few minutes to be sure it would run.Left dock and made it about 200 feet before alarm went off. Couldn’t
anchor in mid channel so threw up sails, deciding that I could sail to safe
anchorage in harbor, then get towed in.Got to safe anchorage and decided I could sail around the sound for the
day, then get towed in.Wind was great for going to Manhassett to see friend there. Sailed for the
day and up to anchor.Had a great time with friends, took 10 minutes the next morning to deal
with engine, and sailed home.Moral of the story: it’s a sailboat. The engine is called auxiliary for a
reason.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 17, 2012 9:11 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Glad I asked. Thanks.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Or you hot watet heatet never heats up.
Sent from my Samsung smartphone on AT&TRobert Fine wrote:An airlock will result in overheating within 5 minutes. As far as the
engine knows, there’s no water in it (not true, but thats how it appears to
instruments and sensors). If it didn’t happen then, then when you leave
next time, make sure your sails are uncovered and your anchor’s ready!Or, just run the engine for 10-15 minutes and allow it to come up to temp.
Bob
On Wed, Oct 17, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I have a Yanmar, but I’m wondering… I changed the antifreeze last
spring just before I stored the boat for the summer. Then I only ran it
for a few minutes to move to the haul-out slip. Seemed fine doing that.
How does one know one has an air lock in the engine’s cooling system.
What is the symptom?I’m not being terse. I’m being curious.
🙂
Quote:
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Quent: thanks for the idea of a vent for the upper thermostat housing to bleed that area. I bought a spare W 58 from another owner that repowered and use it for parts. The upper thermo housing on the spare engine had a threaded port that I believe was used for a temp sensor. The port threads fit a petcock that I bought at an auto store, and I removed and replaced the original housing with this now vented unit. Westerbeke must have changed the thing on later engines.
After going through the frustrating process of methodically rebuilding the raw and fresh water systems, my overheating problems are finally solved. This air bubble problem, of course, is not mentioned in any engine literature and had me tearing my hair out. I offer the following guidelines:
1. Never, ever mix antifreezes. The resultant goo plugs up the cooling passages. Yes, I unknowingly did this
2. Never, ever use a flush product unless it is friendly to aluminum. After gumming up my system, the flush I used ate holes through the inlet/outlet pipes on the aluminum exhaust manifold. Lucky I had a spare engine.
Duh!Hopefully this will save another W 58 owner some grief.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu -
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One of these turned up at the shop. I’m thinking of plumbing it to the horizontal temp sensor on the thermostat housing with a short length of flexible hose. Mounted on a bulkhead it would be the highest spot in the system.
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=663
Something to check out on your cooling system. The hole in fill port on the cooling system that leads to the overflow tank hose gets clogged quite easily. You can stick a paper clip in there to clear it.
Chuck
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