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noticed my bow light was out– bulb had burned out and was half white in color–previously a clear bulb! I used my VOM and detected a short since there is continuity between the + and – with switch off. At $24 per bulb I would rather not place a new one in there and have it blow out! I see there is a terminal block in the anchor locker on the port side up under the deck. I cleaned this off, detached the two wires going to the bow light (mine is an Aqua Signal mounted on the pulpit). These wires tested good. When I tested the remaining wires that run back below I found that there was continuity in those 2 wires( I removed them from the terminal block for the test) Anyone have a wiring diagram that shows where these bow light wires go before the circuit breaker switch?.
My question is does anyone know where to trace those wires so that I can look for a short somewhere in that run? Note that my stern light (which runs off the same circuit breaker as the bow light) works fine?? I would think that if there were a short in the bow light the stern light would blow as well? Any help here is appreciated!!
Thanks!
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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Rodd,
You probably need to start with the distribution panel in the aft cabin
hanging locker. The wire from the running lights circuit breaker should go
to one of the terminal strips in this locker and then be connected to the
wires going to the stern and bow lights.
If you have the original Perko lights in the bow I would use this
opportunity to replace them with lights on the bow pulpit and get that
wiring out of the anchor locker.
Here is what I did:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Bow_Running_Lights_and_Bow_Rail_Re-bed_Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 5:04 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
noticed my bow light was out– bulb had burned out and was half white in
color–previously a clear bulb! I used my VOM and detected a short since
there is continuity between the + and – with switch off. At $24 per bulb
I would rather not place a new one in there and have it blow out! I see
there is a terminal block in the anchor locker on the port side up under
the deck. I cleaned this off, detached the two wires going to the bow
light (mine is an Aqua Signal mounted on the pulpit). These wires tested
good. When I tested the remaining wires that run back below I found that
there was continuity in those 2 wires( I removed them from the terminal
block for the test) Anyone have a wiring diagram that shows where these
bow light wires go before the circuit breaker switch?.My question is does anyone know where to trace those wires so that I can
look for a short somewhere in that run? Note that my stern light (which
runs off the same circuit breaker as the bow light) works fine?? I would
think that if there were a short in the bow light the stern light would
blow as well? Any help here is appreciated!!Thanks!
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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If remember on mine the bow light wire leaves the dist. Panel and runs along the stb wire way all the way to the bow before it crosses over to the port side inside the aft portion of the anchor locker.
Alan
Unabated
Sent from my Verizon Wireless mobile phone
Original Message
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Probably the best solution is to run a new wire from the panel on – some of
the wires in the Pearson are plain copper and need to be replaced with
tinned wire.Bob
On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 5:27 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:If remember on mine the bow light wire leaves the dist. Panel and runs
along the stb wire way all the way to the bow before it crosses over to the
port side inside the aft portion of the anchor locker.
Alan
Unabated
Sent from my Verizon Wireless mobile phone
Original Message
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I agree with Bob, time to replace the wire if it is original with one continous run of tinned boat wire. Your bow pulpit light is probably a replacement as the original bow running lights were in the hull on P-424s. If the wire runs inside the bow pulpit, I’d check the hole near the light assembly where the wire exits the bow pulpit. May have chafed through the wire insulation.
Quent
S/V Clairebuoyant #132 -
Thanks all — sounds like it’s time to replace the entire run forward from
the switch at the panel. Quent, I did check for chafe at the bow pulpit,
and there was none– that short run from the terminal block in the anchor
locker to the light itself was good. The problem lies in the long run up
from the panel (of course!!). Now I need to go back and measure length I
need before ordering from Genuinedealz. I imagine a 12ga wire should do it?
(bulb is 25 watt for the Aqua Sig series 40).I figure it is probably easier to run the wires down and through the bilge
then up to the water tank area then on up to the anchor locker. I can follow
the path I used to run my 00 cable to my windlass!Rodd Leeds
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Run it through the wire guides is easiest and you can use the old wire to
pull the new.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jul 24, 2012 8:38 AM, “Rodd Leeds” wrote:Thanks all — sounds like it’s time to replace the entire run forward from
the switch at the panel. Quent, I did check for chafe at the bow pulpit,
and there was none– that short run from the terminal block in the anchor
locker to the light itself was good. The problem lies in the long run up
from the panel (of course!!). Now I need to go back and measure length I
need before ordering from Genuinedealz. I imagine a 12ga wire should do
it? (bulb is 25 watt for the Aqua Sig series 40).I figure it is probably easier to run the wires down and through the bilge
then up to the water tank area then on up to the anchor locker. I can
follow the path I used to run my 00 cable to my windlass!Rodd Leeds
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