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Replacing is super easy. I used 3/8 inch acrylic and GE 794 sealant.
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 9, 2011 6:55 PM, “Adam” wrote:I have read that some have chosen to replace the bomar hatches. Mine are
leaking with heavy rain and I am want to know if the plastic can be
stripped, cleaned and rebedded with caulking or is this futile and just bite
the bullit and replace the hatch?Thanks for your advice in advance.
Adam
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As to replacing the hatches entirely other owners have used Lewmar Ocean
series. I plan to choose between those and New Found Metals after i see a
nfm hatch in person.-pea
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 3:55 PM, Adam wrote:
I have read that some have chosen to replace the bomar hatches. Mine are
leaking with heavy rain and I am want to know if the plastic can be
stripped, cleaned and rebedded with caulking or is this futile and just bite
the bullit and replace the hatch?
Thanks for your advice in advance.Adam
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
They are great hatches. Just get yourself new gasket from Defender or McMaster-Carr and repaint them if needed.
Pete
On Jan 9, 2011, at 3:55 PM, “Adam” wrote:
I have read that some have chosen to replace the bomar hatches. Mine are leaking with heavy rain and I am want to know if the plastic can be stripped, cleaned and rebedded with caulking or is this futile and just bite the bullit and replace the hatch?
Thanks for your advice in advance.Adam
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sources for acrylic
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=181&step=2&top_cat=181
http://www.tapplastics.com/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 6:52 PM, Adam wrote:
Thanks for the quick replies! Bob where does one get acrylic fabricated
and what was the approx cost. My paint on hatches is in pretty good
condition.As to the NFM hatch, is it a simple drop in, or does the hole have to be
enlarged? Is it worth the expense ?_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
I get my plastic from local dealers. Plasticraft is one. For 3/8 inch for
the large hatches, I think I paid like $50.It’s importanto get the right adhesive. I’ve tried them all, and the only
one that works is GE stuff. Just use gloves and tape liberally. It’s sticky,
black and messy.Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 9, 2011 9:53 PM, “Adam” wrote:Thanks for the quick replies! Bob where does one get acrylic fabricated
and what was the approx cost. My paint on hatches is in pretty good
condition.As to the NFM hatch, is it a simple drop in, or does the hole have to be
enlarged? Is it worth the expense ?
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While we’re on the subject (again)…
I have original hatches in Silverheels. They’re fine, but I’d like to find
some (or at least one) of the little rectangular-shaped springs that are in
the knurl knob latches, the spring that flips back the latch catch part of
the mechanism. Anyone have any ideas for that? I can’t tell who made these
original hatches. No brand ID visible.Also, what do you smart skippers use for gasket replacement material in
these old hatches. Mine don’t leak, but they’re looking aged.Thanks,
Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor
the gasket material is still available. I think West Marine carries it.I had the hinge break on one of mine. No obvious reason why. It just broke off the frame with no warning. I got a bowmar low-profile hatch that was an almost drop-in replacement. The hatch was the same size but the hole pattern was different. I like the low-profile hatch better.
Rich
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Thanks, Rich. I’ll check West Marine for that gasket material next chance I
get. As for the latch spring, I’m not ready to replace the entire hatch
because of it. Any idea who made the original hatches?Hey, does anyone in the group who has replaced their hatches still have
their old ones? Want to sell me those little springs?Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Oops! Dow Corning 795 sealant!
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 10, 2011 11:08 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Thanks, Rich. I’ll check West Marine for that gasket material next chance
I
Quote:get. As for the latch spring, I’m not ready to replace the entire hatch
because of it. Any idea who made the original hatches?Hey, does anyone in the group who has replaced their hatches still have
their old ones? Want to sell me those little springs?Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hi, Tor,
I replaced one of those parts on the hatch in the V-berth a few years
ago….can’t tell you exactly when as the maintenance log is on the boat.
Anyway, I believe I bought the replacement from Prompanette (sp?)…the
company that bought up the Bowmar brand.Mary E. Springhorn
P424 PARALLAX, Hull #61
Sailing out of Bellingham, WA
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I also need a couple of those little springs..
About a year ago Pompanette told me they don’t sell the springs separately..
It would be great to find that someone does.I believe a got my gasket material from Defender…
Don Casey in Sailmagazine March 2009 also recommends GE Silpruf SCS2000 or
Dow 795 Silicone when replacing the acrylic.Nice article about Dinghy Lifting Tor
Rick
Eclipse #73
On Mon, Jan 10, 2011 at 11:08 AM, Silverheels wrote:Quote:Thanks, Rich. I’ll check West Marine for that gasket material next chance I
get. As for the latch spring, I’m not ready to replace the entire hatch
because of it. Any idea who made the original hatches?Hey, does anyone in the group who has replaced their hatches still have
their old ones? Want to sell me those little springs?Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks, Mary. If no-one in the group has those springs laying around I’ll do
as you suggest and contact Pompa-whatever. (I have that company’s name &
contact info somewhere.)Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Pompanette! That’s it, but I guess they’re useless in this case. Too bad.
Thanks, Rick. I just found out this morning the article’s in there.
Tor
http://www.silverheels.us
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Just go to any plastics house with a cardboard pattern and they can cut
it for you. No big deal. Alternately you can get a slightly oversized
square and use a router with a patterning bit and the old plastic as the
pattern for the new plastic using some double stick tape to hold the
pieces together while they are routed (doing this on a router table is
the easiest way). I have done this any number of times.If you want to do a precise drawing in an adobe format such as .ai or
.eps, my local plastics house can laser cut the plastic and ship it to
you. (Fort Collins Plastics. Ask for Chuck or Marilyn and tell them
Pete Dubler sent you.Pete
On 1/9/2011 7:52 PM, Adam wrote:
Thanks for the quick replies! Bob where does one get acrylic fabricated and what was the approx cost. My paint on hatches is in pretty good condition.
As to the NFM hatch, is it a simple drop in, or does the hole have to be enlarged? Is it worth the expense ?
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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I hate to say it, but you are paying too much if you use these sources.
Pete
On 1/9/2011 8:19 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
sources for acrylic
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=181&step=2&top_cat=181
http://www.tapplastics.com/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 6:52 PM, Adam wrote:
Thanks for the quick replies! Bob where does one get acrylic fabricated
and what was the approx cost. My paint on hatches is in pretty good
condition.As to the NFM hatch, is it a simple drop in, or does the hole have to be
enlarged? Is it worth the expense ?_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Sikaflex 295UV with their cleaner and primer is an awesome system but
not cheap (about $85 for the whole set), but worth it in the long run.I agree that the GE stuff is good, but this Sikaflex system is the best
I have ever used.I wrote a complete article on hatch restoration back in 2006. If anyone
would like a copy, I would be glad to share, but it cannot be posted.Pete
On 1/10/2011 3:18 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
I get my plastic from local dealers. Plasticraft is one. For 3/8 inch for
the large hatches, I think I paid like $50.It’s importanto get the right adhesive. I’ve tried them all, and the only
one that works is GE stuff. Just use gloves and tape liberally. It’s sticky,
black and messy.Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 9, 2011 9:53 PM, “Adam” wrote:Thanks for the quick replies! Bob where does one get acrylic fabricated
and what was the approx cost. My paint on hatches is in pretty good
condition.As to the NFM hatch, is it a simple drop in, or does the hole have to be
enlarged? Is it worth the expense ?
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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I may have an inside source on these springs. My friend runs an injection molding business and he makes parts for pomponette. I will check with him and see if he can get a fist full.
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 10, 2011, at 7:08 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Just go to any plastics house with a cardboard pattern and they can cut it for you. No big deal. Alternately you can get a slightly oversized square and use a router with a patterning bit and the old plastic as the pattern for the new plastic using some double stick tape to hold the pieces together while they are routed (doing this on a router table is the easiest way). I have done this any number of times.
If you want to do a precise drawing in an adobe format such as .ai or .eps, my local plastics house can laser cut the plastic and ship it to you. (Fort Collins Plastics. Ask for Chuck or Marilyn and tell them Pete Dubler sent you.
Pete
On 1/9/2011 7:52 PM, Adam wrote:
Thanks for the quick replies! Bob where does one get acrylic fabricated and what was the approx cost. My paint on hatches is in pretty good condition.
As to the NFM hatch, is it a simple drop in, or does the hole have to be enlarged? Is it worth the expense ?
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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I bought the gasket from Defender by the foot several years ago. (Bomar
hatch). Others have found the same stuff at McMaster Carr. Their
93085K14 which is EPDM might do the trick. Search on rubber bulb
seal. They also offer silicone. Much, much cheaper than buying from
Defender at current prices (Defender was cheaper years ago when I got if
from them).Try http://www.pompanette.com for parts (call them regarding the spring).
Pete
On 1/10/2011 5:33 AM, SilverHeels wrote:
While we’re on the subject (again)…
I have original hatches in Silverheels. They’re fine, but I’d like to find
some (or at least one) of the little rectangular-shaped springs that are in
the knurl knob latches, the spring that flips back the latch catch part of
the mechanism. Anyone have any ideas for that? I can’t tell who made these
original hatches. No brand ID visible.Also, what do you smart skippers use for gasket replacement material in
these old hatches. Mine don’t leak, but they’re looking aged.Thanks,
Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks, Pete. I’ll check that out at McMaster.
Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Eric,
If you’re talking about the little knurl knob spring I’m looking for, a
fistful would be awesome! Let me know.Thanks,
Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thing about Sikaflex is that to get the best results one should use all
elements of the system: cleaner, primer, and caulk.Pete
On 1/10/2011 7:04 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:I called Bowmar about 20 years ago when I had to replace the plastic in one
of my hatches. The guy said they use Silkaflex. I would guess they would
have used something cheaper and easier if it worked as well…Rich
Quote:
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The Dow stuff holds window in skyscrapers. I’ve never had it fail. It’s also
only 10 bucks a tube.I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 10, 2011 9:21 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Thing about Sikaflex is that to get the best results one should use all
elements of the system: cleaner, primer, and caulk.Pete
On 1/10/2011 7:04 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
I called Bowmar about 20 years ago when I had to replace the plastic in
one
Quote:Quote:of my hatches. The guy said they use Silkaflex. I would guess they would
have used something cheaper and easier if it worked as well…Rich
Quote:
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Just a clarification…I didn’t just buy the spring. I bought an entire
unit (the assembly that dogs down the hatch). It could be that they no
longer sell that either, but it would be worth an inquiry if that is
what you need.Mary
On 1/10/2011 9:17 AM, Rick Dugger wrote:
Quote:I also need a couple of those little springs..
About a year ago Pompanette told me they don’t sell the springs separately..
It would be great to find that someone does.I believe a got my gasket material from Defender…
Don Casey in Sailmagazine March 2009 also recommends GE Silpruf SCS2000 or
Dow 795 Silicone when replacing the acrylic.Nice article about Dinghy Lifting Tor
Rick
Eclipse #73
On Mon, Jan 10, 2011 at 11:08 AM, Silverheels wrote:Quote:Thanks, Rich. I’ll check West Marine for that gasket material next chance I
get. As for the latch spring, I’m not ready to replace the entire hatch
because of it. Any idea who made the original hatches?Hey, does anyone in the group who has replaced their hatches still have
their old ones? Want to sell me those little springs?Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks for the replies! I took the hatch off the boat and will have new acrylic cut. I have heard different opinions on how long to set up the sealant ( Dow 795 or GE Ultraglaze 4000 ) for about 3 weeks before cutting away excess. Is this the best way to go, or remove the tape immediately and wipe edges like normal caulking.
Adam
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Hi Adam, remove tape immediately but don’t touch for a few days.
Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 11, 2011 11:00 PM, “Adam” wrote:Thanks for the replies! I took the hatch off the boat and will have new
acrylic cut. I have heard different opinions on how long to set up the
sealant ( Dow 795 or GE Ultraglaze 4000 ) for about 3 weeks before cutting
away excess. Is this the best way to go, or remove the tape immediately and
wipe edges like normal caulking.Adam
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Tor:
I am new to the 424 family (just bought my boat last year #53 but I have refurbished the hatches on my Pearson 323 of 25 years and now have just redone the three on the 424. They are exactly the same. (I’m a fool for old Pearsons). Since my hatches are still dry after 2 years, I thought I’d share my experience. There are still Bomar parts available but they are expensive. Since the original Bomar hatches are very heavy duty cast aluminum, I chose to keep them and put in new parts. New ones aren’t made this well unless you go to stainless steel frames. The only places a hatch can leak are: 1. from the rubber seal/gasket, 2. from the acrylic coming un-bedded from the frame or cracked, and 3. from the frame mounting in the cabin-top. Unless you have the latter, which I think is very rare, I wouldn’t fix what “ain’t broke”. In my case, I removed the ring pins in the hatch tops and took them to the shop. For the hole, I made a temp scrap plywood top with a window weather seal from Lowes around the top of the hatch, then screwed it to a 1″ strip across the bottom of the hatch to keep it tight. (interestingly, it was more water tight than my hatches).
Two of the hatches I had sand blasted and then primed with zinc-chromate and then re-painted black. I had dark bronze acrylic 1/4 inch cut to the size of the original. The original glass was 7/16″ but the added strength might be better under foot and it fits perfectly. After contacting West Marine and the engineers at BoatLife in Charleston, I went with the LifeSeal black polyurethane/”sillycone” sealer. Tape the outside of the rim with the blue or green painters tape and the new acrylic should have a paper seal covering it on both sides. Remove one side of the paper and seat that side of the acrylic onto the hatch that has been bedded with the LifeSeal. I sanded about 1/2 inch around the acrylic window to help adhesion. A note of caution here. The frames have a groove that is made to put the sealer in. Fill the groove, but also run a bead above the groove to ensure that the acrylic is properly sealed. The groove alone can leave gaps since it is so deep. After the acrylic is placed and weighted (I used a small toolbox that weighs about 12 lbs.) then you can go back with the cauk gun (LifeSeal) and run a finish bead around the edges. Just like cauk, it smoothes nicely with a wet finger. I found that the toolbox works better than C-clamps which tend to push out too much sealer. I bought one new latch-dog and used it for parts to replace the spring on one and the knob/rod on another. The new ones have a plastic hook-latch, while the old ones are cast aluminum. Do not settle for a hardware store cheaper rubber seal. I learned the hard way, It doesn’t fit properly, and it causes the latch-dogs to not do their job properly. The proper rubber seal (round) will cost about $1 a foot. All in all, I had less than $100 in each hatch refurb counting acrylic, paint, seal, rubber etc. A new hatch cost about $600 and probably isn’t as good as these. The hatches look like new and hopefully are good for another 30 years. -
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