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Yesterday I created a new access hatch in the cabin sole to the shafts and stuffing box. It's not finished (need to add trim and latches), but it will give me tremendous access when I put in the shaft generator.
Pictures if anyone wants…
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Bob,
Pics? We always want pics.John
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Yesterday I created a new access hatch in the cabin sole to the shafts and stuffing box. It's not finished (need to add trim and latches), but it will give me tremendous access when I put in the shaft generator.
Pictures if anyone wants…
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Thanks, Bob.
Did you screw up your courage to make the cuts this time or did you have your buddy do it.John
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 10:24 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Your wish is my command! Realize I haven't framed out the hatch to match the others, put the bungs in the holes or routed out for the latches. That's a project for another day when I get a pattern router bit.
Bob
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Bob Fine
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John Stevenson
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Nice job! When can you do one for me?
🙂
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi John and Tor,
I did it myself. The new Dremel Multi-max tool is just what the doctor ordered for the corners. I've done all the latches myself but need a new pattern bit to finish.
Tor, dude, you say the word and I'll load up my tools and hippity hop down there to do the job!
Bob
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 11:20 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Nice job! When can you do one for me?🙂
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, but I suspect you’ve got plenty of hippity hopping to do around your own boat.
I have a Dremel tool – don’t know how I ever lived without it. What does the Dremel Multi-Max tool do (and why do I expect finding out is going to cost me the price of one)?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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The Dremel Multimax is a tool that vibrates back and forth around the axis of the tool. Think a right angle grinder but instead of circular motion, it's back and forth. It comes with three blades – one that you can use to cut wood, for instance, in the corners of the cutout like I made. A circular saw will leave some wood in the corners as you know. This tool will cut those pieces out nicely. It's real purpose is for removing boards from a wood floor – you use this to cut the boards across and to remove the tongue so that it pops out.
It also has a triangular sanding do-dah, and a vibrating scraper. You can get a blade that removes grout, too. It's $99. The Fein tool is $279.
Anyway, it's something you'l use once in a very great while, unless you're going to open up your cabin sole like I did -then it's worth the money.
Bob
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 2:18 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, but I suspect you've got plenty of hippity hopping to do around your own boat.
I have a Dremel tool – don't know how I ever lived without it. What does the Dremel Multi-Max tool do (and why do I expect finding out is going to cost me the price of one)?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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An interesting thing I was told by a Fein sales rep is that the vibrating tool was originally developed for the medical industry as a cast cutter. The vibrator will cut through the cast but not cut skin. It will not cut anything that is soft only hard stuff.
My last broken bone was over 55 years ago, long before these tools were available. i seem to remember cutting the cast then was a little scary.
John
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 2:43 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:The Dremel Multimax is a tool that vibrates back and forth around the axis of the tool. Think a right angle grinder but instead of circular motion, it's back and forth. It comes with three blades – one that you can use to cut wood, for instance, in the corners of the cutout like I made. A circular saw will leave some wood in the corners as you know. This tool will cut those pieces out nicely. It's real purpose is for removing boards from a wood floor – you use this to cut the boards across and to remove the tongue so that it pops out.It also has a triangular sanding do-dah, and a vibrating scraper. You can get a blade that removes grout, too. It's $99. The Fein tool is $279.
Anyway, it's something you'l use once in a very great while, unless you're going to open up your cabin sole like I did -then it's worth the money.
Bob
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 2:18 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, but I suspect you've got plenty of hippity hopping to do around your own boat.
I have a Dremel tool – don't know how I ever lived without it. What does the Dremel Multi-Max tool do (and why do I expect finding out is going to cost me the price of one)?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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How long do you find the blades last when making cuts like these? (I
need to stock up before I go out to my boat).Pete
Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Thanks, but I suspect you’ve got plenty of hippity hopping to do
around your own boat.I have a Dremel tool – don’t know how I ever lived without it. What
does the Dremel Multi-Max tool do (and why do I expect finding out is
going to cost me the price of one)?Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Scott,
A couple of messages back are the pictures.
Pete, with the blade that came with the unit I've done 4 floor openings (4 corners each). The blade is still sharp. I'd say, get one extra. Usually, I'll break a blade before I wear it out (I'll also lose a pen before it's empty – I don't think I've ever worn a pen out). I think you'll be pleased at how well it works.
Bob
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 11:13 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
How long do you find the blades last when making cuts like these? (I need to stock up before I go out to my boat).
Pete
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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So Bob, it sounds like you are using this tool only for the corners.
How are you cutting the other portion of the holes with such a narrow kerf?Thanks again,
Pete
Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Scott,
A couple of messages back are the pictures.
Pete, with the blade that came with the unit I’ve done 4 floor
openings (4 corners each). The blade is still sharp. I’d say, get
one extra. Usually, I’ll break a blade before I wear it out (I’ll
also lose a pen before it’s empty – I don’t think I’ve ever worn a pen
out). I think you’ll be pleased at how well it works.Bob
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 11:13 PM, Pete Dubler <
How long do you find the blades last when making cuts like these?
(I need to stock up before I go out to my boat).Pete
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Hi Peter,
I use a circular saw. Not just any, but a Rigid 24V saw with a narrow carbide blade. You need some clearance anyway, and the blade relieves about 5/64ths which is more than enough.
I put down blue painting tape and draw the appropriate line on it. It's that simple. Make sure you don't cut deeper than the thickness of the floorboards (measure in another opening). You're good to go.
The hardest part for me is putting the frame around it, but I think I have a way. More on that later. My friend, Leigh, made patterns for the latches, and with them and a pattern bit on the router I can install the latches in about 10 minutes each.
I purchase the latches from Marinepartdepot.com and they're like $19. each. Compared to 49 each anywhere else. I had a friend with a machine shop make the little right angle brackets to attach to. Easy-peasy.
For the floorboard inboard of the head, I put a cleat under the garbage bag holder and added only one latch just inboard the head door.
SOLAS requires all floorboards be latched. I haven't figured out what to do with the little ones around the mast and the forward cabin.
Bob
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s/v Pelican
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Hi Alan,
I do use a router and I have pictures of the patterns on http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com/2008/11/there-is-never-enough-space.html where I describe the whole process.
A pattern bit for a router has a bearing at the top of the bit blade rather than the bottom. The bearing runs on the inside of the pattern for cutting the appropriate shape. I can give you drawings for the patterns for the latches I use, if you like.
Bob
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I have thought about dzus fasteners for the small hatches.
Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Peter,
I use a circular saw. Not just any, but a Rigid 24V saw with a narrow
carbide blade. You need some clearance anyway, and the blade relieves
about 5/64ths which is more than enough.I put down blue painting tape and draw the appropriate line on it.
It’s that simple. Make sure you don’t cut deeper than the thickness
of the floorboards (measure in another opening). You’re good to go.The hardest part for me is putting the frame around it, but I think I
have a way. More on that later. My friend, Leigh, made patterns for
the latches, and with them and a pattern bit on the router I can
install the latches in about 10 minutes each.I purchase the latches from Marinepartdepot.com and they’re like $19.
each. Compared to 49 each anywhere else. I had a friend with a
machine shop make the little right angle brackets to attach to.
Easy-peasy.For the floorboard inboard of the head, I put a cleat under the
garbage bag holder and added only one latch just inboard the head door.SOLAS requires all floorboards be latched. I haven’t figured out what
to do with the little ones around the mast and the forward cabin.Bob
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Eh? What are they?
On Mon, Mar 23, 2009 at 10:34 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I have thought about dzus fasteners for the small hatches.
Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Peter,
I use a circular saw. Not just any, but a Rigid 24V saw with a narrow carbide blade. You need some clearance anyway, and the blade relieves about 5/64ths which is more than enough.
I put down blue painting tape and draw the appropriate line on it. It's that simple. Make sure you don't cut deeper than the thickness of the floorboards (measure in another opening). You're good to go.
The hardest part for me is putting the frame around it, but I think I have a way. More on that later. My friend, Leigh, made patterns for the latches, and with them and a pattern bit on the router I can install the latches in about 10 minutes each.
I purchase the latches from Marinepartdepot.com and they're like $19. each. Compared to 49 each anywhere else. I had a friend with a machine shop make the little right angle brackets to attach to. Easy-peasy.For the floorboard inboard of the head, I put a cleat under the garbage bag holder and added only one latch just inboard the head door.
SOLAS requires all floorboards be latched. I haven't figured out what to do with the little ones around the mast and the forward cabin.
Bob
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s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Used on race car and airplane skins and the like for quick opening and
closing. I believe Southco now owns them. Just google dzus fasteners
and you will find them. The question is do they make any long enough.Robert Fine wrote:
Eh? What are they?
On Mon, Mar 23, 2009 at 10:34 PM, Pete Dubler <
I have thought about dzus fasteners for the small hatches.
Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Peter,
I use a circular saw. Not just any, but a Rigid 24V saw with a
narrow carbide blade. You need some clearance anyway, and the
blade relieves about 5/64ths which is more than enough.I put down blue painting tape and draw the appropriate line on
it. It’s that simple. Make sure you don’t cut deeper than
the thickness of the floorboards (measure in another opening).
You’re good to go.The hardest part for me is putting the frame around it, but I
think I have a way. More on that later. My friend, Leigh,
made patterns for the latches, and with them and a pattern bit
on the router I can install the latches in about 10 minutes each.
I purchase the latches from Marinepartdepot.com and they’re
like $19. each. Compared to 49 each anywhere else. I had a
friend with a machine shop make the little right angle
brackets to attach to. Easy-peasy.For the floorboard inboard of the head, I put a cleat under
the garbage bag holder and added only one latch just inboard
the head door.SOLAS requires all floorboards be latched. I haven’t figured
out what to do with the little ones around the mast and the
forward cabin.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Hey! Those would be great on the lids over the water heater, batteries (in my case) and outboard stowage locker. On the floorboards, though, I like the manly stainless steel latches. I run a manly ship with manly fittings.
Also, the match the ones I put on already.
Bob
On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Used on race car and airplane skins and the like for quick opening and closing. I believe Southco now owns them. Just google dzus fasteners and you will find them. The question is do they make any long enough.
Robert Fine wrote:
Eh? What are they?
On Mon, Mar 23, 2009 at 10:34 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])
I have thought about dzus fasteners for the small hatches.
Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Peter,
I use a circular saw. Not just any, but a Rigid 24V saw with a
narrow carbide blade. You need some clearance anyway, and the
blade relieves about 5/64ths which is more than enough.I put down blue painting tape and draw the appropriate line on
it. It's that simple. Make sure you don't cut deeper than
the thickness of the floorboards (measure in another opening).
You're good to go.The hardest part for me is putting the frame around it, but I
think I have a way. More on that later. My friend, Leigh,
made patterns for the latches, and with them and a pattern bit
on the router I can install the latches in about 10 minutes each.
I purchase the latches from Marinepartdepot.com and they're
like $19. each. Compared to 49 each anywhere else. I had a
friend with a machine shop make the little right angle
brackets to attach to. Easy-peasy.For the floorboard inboard of the head, I put a cleat under
the garbage bag holder and added only one latch just inboard
the head door.SOLAS requires all floorboards be latched. I haven't figured
out what to do with the little ones around the mast and the
forward cabin.Bob
— Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Bob Fine
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Here's the things I was thinking of using, except, of course, they are so expensive as to be prohibitive:
http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=panel_anchor&action=floor-anchors&sn=2
Bob
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Oops, no they're not – they used to be $40 each. Now a more reasonable $14.00 each for 1/2″ – 3/4″, more for 1-1/4″ – 1-1/2″. Come in kits, too.
On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 9:59 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Here's the things I was thinking of using, except, of course, they are so expensive as to be prohibitive:
http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=panel_anchor&action=floor-anchors&sn=2
Bob
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s/v Pelican
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These are basically a new version of Dzus fasteners but wildly over-priced.
Robert Fine wrote:
Oops, no they’re not – they used to be $40 each. Now a more
reasonable $14.00 each for 1/2″ – 3/4″, more for 1-1/4″ – 1-1/2″.
Come in kits, too.On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 9:59 AM, Robert Fine <
Here’s the things I was thinking of using, except, of course, they
are so expensive as to be prohibitive:http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=panel_anchor&action=floor-anchors&sn=2
<http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=panel_anchor&action=floor-anchors&sn=2>Bob
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So that's what they are called. I bought a bunch of those PYI fasteners about 8 years ago. Never installed them on the hatches as planned. Thought I would use them when I copy some of the hatches Bob has installed. Glad to see there is another source for them.
Of course mine are “Marine Quality” and I even have the tapered drill bit, specially made for these fasteners (top of pic). Gotta be a good deal.
John
On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 10:15 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
These are basically a new version of Dzus fasteners but wildly over-priced.
Robert Fine wrote:
Oops, no they're not – they used to be $40 each. Now a more reasonable $14.00 each for 1/2″ – 3/4″, more for 1-1/4″ – 1-1/2″. Come in kits, too.
On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 9:59 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])
Here's the things I was thinking of using, except, of course, they
are so expensive as to be prohibitive:http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=panel_anchor&action=floor-anchors&sn=2
<http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=panel_anchor&action=floor-anchors&sn=2>Bob
— Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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I just bought one of these, but I paid $40 at the store. I’ll let you know how it works in a couple of weeks after I’ve had a chance to complete a project or two.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65700
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I hope it lasts – I've found that stuff from Chicago Electric is of inferior quality, but I can be rough on tools. Good luck. John, the PYI fasteners are not the same as the dzus. They anchor differently and are far stronger. They also have a different purpose – for taking two thin sheets of something and attaching them in a removable manner.
As I mentioned, originally, the PYI things were really, really expensive – now they're $14/$15 each and within a budget. I'm going to use them for the little hatches and the things under the aft port bunk.
Bob
On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 1:09 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I just bought one of these, but I paid $40 at the store. I'll let you know how it works in a couple of weeks after I've had a chance to complete a project or two.http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65700
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NEW! UPDATE!
Hi All,
Got all the tools, accumulated the fittings. Installed the latches. Holes finished. Pictures included. The hatch below the companionway looks dull because it's sanded for varnishing.
Per the PYI fittings: Having removed the board above the engine cover about a hundred times, with screw holes pretty much useless, will install these babies to help solve the problem of getting it on and off easily.
Bob
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s/v Pelican
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May you never need them!
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Bob,
You do nice work! I am planning on doing an overlay of my sole (no
jokes here, please) using 1/4″ bamboo plywood for the broad strips and
teak for the narrow strips, in the style of the current Hylas boats. In
researching this project, and after being inspired by your work and
wanting to add more access panels to the sole, I came across the
attached method for securing the hatch using only one latch per panel.Pete
Robert Fine wrote:
NEW! UPDATE!
Hi All,
Got all the tools, accumulated the fittings. Installed the latches.
Holes finished. Pictures included. The hatch below the companionway
looks dull because it’s sanded for varnishing.Per the PYI fittings: Having removed the board above the engine cover
about a hundred times, with screw holes pretty much useless, will
install these babies to help solve the problem of getting it on and
off easily.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Hi Pete,
I really like the idea of bamboo, too, and would have used that with strips of ipe reversing the colors (light wide, dark narrow), but frankly I haven't got it in me.
I also thought of the one latch per panel. I could have had an aluminum 'Z' that locked on the 'L' underneath, but since the 'L's were free I didn't want to push my luck. Also, at like $19 each from Marine Part Depot, I figured what the heck. Also, it looks more manly to turn and lift two rings rather than one, don't you think?
Thank you for the compliment. It wasn't too long ago that I wouldn't touch a project that includes wood because 1. wood isn't as precise as metal; and 2. the tools are really nasty – there are a lot less metal workers missing fingers than woodworkers…
Bob
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s/v Pelican
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Nice job Bob.
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Another Bob Job.
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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